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2016 Toyota Sienna LE FWD
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I almost messed up with the crow's foot though - forgot for a moment that I needed to tighten it onto the steering rack shaft - had it turning the wrong way on the first try. I had to hold the end of the adjustable wrench (on the tie rod) and the extension with one hand and run the impact with the other - or that crow's foot goes flying!

I'm also not a fan of 'Stop Leak' - but that white pepper trick work for 10 years on my Jeep! Never had any luck with Bar's Leaks or whatever it's called. Maybe it depends on the size of the leak. My power steering fluid is not going down very fast - gotta try something. Changing that rack will cost close to $2000 by the time it's done. Too hard to do that on the floor what with trying to drop the engine cradle and all to make room to get it out. Guys have done it though, but not many pushing 70yo!
Its possible to get the steering rack off without dropping the whole engine. You just have to unbolt the swaybar to get it to loosen up so you can move it. I recently did drop the engine in my sienna when i was doing a few repairs. What i hate about these vans is there is barely any room to work on under neath and with a Transfer case its even harder as its more in the way.
 
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I did the power steering fluid flush yesterday - super-easy job! Swapped out the mystery syrup for Dexron III. I only had to add a piece of tubing to the return nipple on the reservoir and hold it up above the level of the top of the reservoir. Then rotated the rubber return hose so that it points 'down'(ish) into an empty yogurt container. Open the driver's side window and operate the steering wheel from outside - stop to stop only fills the container about 3/4's full. Used an entire liter of Dexron for my flush. I'm hoping this will revitalize my seals and I won't have to delve further into the machinations. I also changed the bellows (everyone here calls it a boot but it's actually called a bellows) on the passenger side. I made a note on my calendar to rotate the bellows once a month (about 20°). I reckon that this will keep whatever PSF is still leaking from pooling in one area of the inside of the bellows - easy to do and worth a shot. Just loosen the small spring-clamp by squeezing with a pliers with one hand and rotate the bellows with the other. I don't want to do that bellows replacement job (4 hours) again for awhile!
 
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'04 XLE-L 2WD
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Other members have reported that several turkey baster drain and fills fixed their minor PS leaks. The new fluid has more seal expanding ability? IDK, but I swapped out the coffee-colored fluid a couple of years ago and it's still pretty clean. It was so dirty that I had to pull the reservoir off to clean it out, otherwise I couldn't see the level w/o taking the cap off.
 

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And by carefully marking the steering arm, nut, and tie rod then counting the turns when removing the tie rod you can avoid an expensive re-alignment (if all goes according to Hoyle).
Just an FYI:
The easy way to make sure the alignment is still set - when you loosen the jam nut - run it back up to the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end (don't count turns - no need)
Get your calipers out and measure from end of the inner tie rod to the jam nut . Lock the calipers if you can - you will not need to measure just simply place it and done.

So now you can install the new tie rod on the inner tie rod end - the jam nut being placed by distance already.. works perfectly..
 
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