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Skimming though the manual on a different thread tonight, I saw that when registering the TPMS sensors they set the alert pressure based on the tire pressure set when setting up the tires. So perhaps just run through that process “quick” because maybe the tire pressure was off when it was first registered?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Skimming though the manual on a different thread tonight, I saw that when registering the TPMS sensors they set the alert pressure based on the tire pressure set when setting up the tires. So perhaps just run through that process “quick” because maybe the tire pressure was off when it was first registered?
Quite possible. Or, maybe a pea somehow rolled under the wheel, and its Royal Majesty TPMS had a sleepless night :)

How high was PSI in the RD tire relative to the others prior to the alert? At least 38?
The tires are inflated to 35-36 psi cold and I am almost sure the low alarm is at 30. The pressure has been equal in all four ± 1 psi, and, as the day progresses, it certainly goes through the 38 psi marker at least twice - on its way up and down.
 

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So? Did you adjust it? CANT YOU SEE YOU CERTAINLY NEED TO ADJUST IT TO THE CORRECT PSI???? COME OOONNNN THATS WRECKLESS DRIVING!
Whats next for you?
Airbag delete mod? Belt buckle on the lock position to get that annoying beeping out?
When does it end with you?
(to all the people who are rushing to correct me, I have to declare that its a joke... with the same tone OP posted..... )
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So? Did you adjust it? CANT YOU SEE YOU CERTAINLY NEED TO ADJUST IT TO THE CORRECT PSI???? COME OOONNNN THATS WRECKLESS DRIVING!
Whats next for you?
Airbag delete mod? Belt buckle on the lock position to get that annoying beeping out?
When does it end with you?
(to all the people who are rushing to correct me, I have to declare that its a joke... with the same tone OP posted..... )
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<< And don't give me your pathetic "It's already 35, your Royal PITA Highness" >>
 

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its that time of the year again when air in our tires decide to leave south for winter. Living in Ohio - i already have a habit of checking my tires. It never skips a beat. Everytime in Sept/Oct the first frost warning - a lot of cars down the road have under inflated tires. Im sure tow truck and AAA people have fun all day. For those who do not have access to a compressor - Costco, Giant Eagle, Sheetz and most tire shops will fill and check your air pressure FREE !

This is my first year of owning a car that shows us each tire pressure reading behind the wheel ! Technology is great !
 

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its that time of the year again when air in our tires decide to leave south for winter. Living in Ohio - i already have a habit of checking my tires. It never skips a beat. Everytime in Sept/Oct the first frost warning - a lot of cars down the road have under inflated tires. Im sure tow truck and AAA people have fun all day. For those who do not have access to a compressor - Costco, Giant Eagle, Sheetz and most tire shops will fill and check your air pressure FREE !

This is my first year of owning a car that shows us each tire pressure reading behind the wheel ! Technology is great !
Not sure why your post reminded me of this, but I realized I could check my tire pressures
without bothering to remove the caps using my Ateq VT31. Still need to go to each tire though.
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Around here we have a chain of gas stations called Kwik Trip. All have free air, and not only free air, but with automatic compressors. Set the desired pressure, then hold the inflator on your tire. It’ll automatically inflate OR deflate the tire to reach that pressure, and beep when the pressure is reached. Spot on pressures too.
 

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About a week ago already added few psi in all tires and with temps getting colder we're at about 35-36 cold psi.

I check, too often, through the MID as well.

As mentioned above you can register the cold temp psi and then that is pressure the tpms will see as normal, if I read manual correctly.
 

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Not sure why your post reminded me of this, but I realized I could check my tire pressures
without bothering to remove the caps using my Ateq VT31. Still need to go to each tire though.
View attachment 59057

Around here we have a chain of gas stations called Kwik Trip. All have free air, and not only free air, but with automatic compressors. Set the desired pressure, then hold the inflator on your tire. It’ll automatically inflate OR deflate the tire to reach that pressure, and beep when the pressure is reached. Spot on pressures too.
Do you think this might work on older TPMS sensors like for the 2012 Mazda 3 and CX-9 ? There is no pressure reading in-dash. Only low air warning.
 

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Not sure why your post reminded me of this, but I realized I could check my tire pressures
without bothering to remove the caps using my Ateq VT31. Still need to go to each tire though.
View attachment 59057

Around here we have a chain of gas stations called Kwik Trip. All have free air, and not only free air, but with automatic compressors. Set the desired pressure, then hold the inflator on your tire. It’ll automatically inflate OR deflate the tire to reach that pressure, and beep when the pressure is reached. Spot on pressures too.
Quick question:
My 2012 RAV4 has bad TPMS sensors, Im thinking on getting a programmer like yours to swap the sensors, will this tool work for that matter?
 

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Not sure why your post reminded me of this, but I realized I could check my tire pressures
without bothering to remove the caps using my Ateq VT31. Still need to go to each tire though.
View attachment 59057

Around here we have a chain of gas stations called Kwik Trip. All have free air, and not only free air, but with automatic compressors. Set the desired pressure, then hold the inflator on your tire. It’ll automatically inflate OR deflate the tire to reach that pressure, and beep when the pressure is reached. Spot on pressures too.
I've seen gas station and car wash compressors be way off, both the old fashioned ones where you read psi at the handle as well as the modern ones with a preset PSI. It's good to have an accurate electronic handheld to verify the compressor reading on the first tire. The cheap mechanical stick-style handhelds belong in the garbage.
 

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Do you think this might work on older TPMS sensors like for the 2012 Mazda 3 and CX-9 ? There is no pressure reading in-dash. Only low air warning.
Yes. Fair warning, the ATEQ V31 is slightly clunky. Routine tire pressure checks were not what it was designed for. It was designed mainly to trigger TPMS sensors for car TPMS relearn. I originally bought it because I had the ATEQ quickset which worked fine for uploading TMPS IDs into the ECU, but the 2013 Honda we had cared which tire was in which spot, and through the TPMS light if not. On switching winter to summer the summer tire positions I had not marked which tire was which, and the car threw the TPMS light. So I got the V31 to read the TPMS IDs so I could manually load them into the Quickset using a computer and then upload to the ECU (the new Quickset X can both read sensors and upload the IDs and locations to the ECU with no computer, essentially the V31 combined with the original Quickset).

Here's a video I took showing how reading the sensors works, and confirming it would indeed work for a 2012 Mozda 3 and CX-9, since they are both listed.

Quick question:
My 2012 RAV4 has bad TPMS sensors, Im thinking on getting a programmer like yours to swap the sensors, will this tool work for that matter?
My understanding of this may not be 100% accurate, so someone correct me if I'm wrong. The VT31 cannot program. It can only do what's called "trigger" the TPMS sensors, along with reading the information they have (ID, pressure, temp, battery level).TPMS sensors are normally asleep if the car is not moving. When they detect movement, they wake up and start transmitting tire pressures at some rate, like every few minutes. But when sleeping, a special trigger signal will wake them up and they will transmit.

To clarify, there are two types of programming:
  • Programming the TPMS sensor. Some 3rd party TPMS sensors come with no IDs, or do but allow programming to change the ID
    • Most (all?) OEM TPMS sensors will already have an ID, which cannot be changed, so there's nothing to program.
    • Programming a specific ID on a TPMS sensor is generally only done to make "clones." Clones are used for when you have two sets of tires (summer/winter) and want the IDs of each set to be identical, so you don't have to reprogram the ECU with new TPMS IDs every time you swap sets of tires.
  • Programming the ECU. The car needs to know which IDs are on the tires installed, so it doesn't confuse pressure readings coming off TPMS sensors on nearby cars. It also needs to know which ID is where, to know which tire has what pressure. This is done by one of three ways, which way(s) work depends on the specific vehicle:
    • Drive relearn: Some cars can be set into a drive relearn, where by driving for a while, it will automatically relearn the TPMS sensors and locations. The new hybrid Sienna has this.
    • Trigger relearn: Car is set into relearn mode, and you walk around the car and activate each TPMS sensor in a specific order, as outlined previously.
    • ECU programming: You connect a compatible device to the OBD port, and directly upload the TPMS ID codes and locations into the ECU.
So, if your RAV4 supports trigger relearn, and you can put the car into trigger relearn mode without any other tools, then yes, the V31 will work to allow you to program in an OEM TPMS sensor after you swap that out.

If your RAV4 requires the TPMS IDs to be uploaded directly to the ECU, then no, the V31 will not work. In that case, again assuming an OEM TPMS sensor, the ATEQ Quickset X will work, as it can read and store all the TPMS IDs and their locations, then you plug it into the OBD and it'll upload to the ECU and you'll be all set.

You'll have to review the service manual or the internets for the RAV4 to see what method(s) is required for TPMS programming. If you don't mind spending a couple extra bucks, the Quickset X will be more useful overall as it'll have a higher compatibility (more vehicles it works with) given it's ability to directly upload TPMS IDs, so may be more useful down the road.

This is just a guess, but given the product page for the V31 says "supports all domestic cars" and the Quickset X doesn't say that, I'd hazard a guess that most US car makers supported the trigger relearn, while brands like Toyota needed to be uploaded to the ECU instead (unless they support driving TPMS learns), which means you'll probably need the Quickset X or other similar tool that can connect to the OBD port.

I've seen gas station and car wash compressors be way off, both the old fashioned ones where you read psi at the handle as well as the modern ones with a preset PSI. It's good to have an accurate electronic handheld to verify the compressor reading on the first tire. The cheap mechanical stick-style handhelds belong in the garbage.
That's fair. It is always good to double check, and I usually do.

Like you, I abhor those stick-style gauges. Those are crap. But I tried a digital one once ($10 Slime), and I hated it. It took several seconds to get a reading, and would power off after a certain amount of time which often meant it would power off as I was getting the pressure reading from the 3rd or 4th tire. I then got one of those analog gauges with a hose and absolutely love it. Super fast, holds the reading so just press it up, get a good seal, and you can immediately pull it off if you'd like. Also has a vent valve, so if you need to let pressure out, just keep the gauge held on and press the button to drain air. Stop pressing to get a reading in a fraction of a second, then keep pressing to continue lowering pressure if too high.
 

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Yes. Fair warning, the ATEQ V31 is slightly clunky. Routine tire pressure checks were not what it was designed for. It was designed mainly to trigger TPMS sensors for car TPMS relearn. I originally bought it because I had the ATEQ quickset which worked fine for uploading TMPS IDs into the ECU, but the 2013 Honda we had cared which tire was in which spot, and through the TPMS light if not. On switching winter to summer the summer tire positions I had not marked which tire was which, and the car threw the TPMS light. So I got the V31 to read the TPMS IDs so I could manually load them into the Quickset using a computer and then upload to the ECU (the new Quickset X can both read sensors and upload the IDs and locations to the ECU with no computer, essentially the V31 combined with the original Quickset).

Here's a video I took showing how reading the sensors works, and confirming it would indeed work for a 2012 Mozda 3 and CX-9, since they are both listed.


My understanding of this may not be 100% accurate, so someone correct me if I'm wrong. The VT31 cannot program. It can only do what's called "trigger" the TPMS sensors, along with reading the information they have (ID, pressure, temp, battery level).TPMS sensors are normally asleep if the car is not moving. When they detect movement, they wake up and start transmitting tire pressures at some rate, like every few minutes. But when sleeping, a special trigger signal will wake them up and they will transmit.

To clarify, there are two types of programming:
  • Programming the TPMS sensor. Some 3rd party TPMS sensors come with no IDs, or do but allow programming to change the ID
    • Most (all?) OEM TPMS sensors will already have an ID, which cannot be changed, so there's nothing to program.
    • Programming a specific ID on a TPMS sensor is generally only done to make "clones." Clones are used for when you have two sets of tires (summer/winter) and want the IDs of each set to be identical, so you don't have to reprogram the ECU with new TPMS IDs every time you swap sets of tires.
  • Programming the ECU. The car needs to know which IDs are on the tires installed, so it doesn't confuse pressure readings coming off TPMS sensors on nearby cars. It also needs to know which ID is where, to know which tire has what pressure. This is done by one of three ways, which way(s) work depends on the specific vehicle:
    • Drive relearn: Some cars can be set into a drive relearn, where by driving for a while, it will automatically relearn the TPMS sensors and locations. The new hybrid Sienna has this.
    • Trigger relearn: Car is set into relearn mode, and you walk around the car and activate each TPMS sensor in a specific order, as outlined previously.
    • ECU programming: You connect a compatible device to the OBD port, and directly upload the TPMS ID codes and locations into the ECU.
So, if your RAV4 supports trigger relearn, and you can put the car into trigger relearn mode without any other tools, then yes, the V31 will work to allow you to program in an OEM TPMS sensor after you swap that out.

If your RAV4 requires the TPMS IDs to be uploaded directly to the ECU, then no, the V31 will not work. In that case, again assuming an OEM TPMS sensor, the ATEQ Quickset X will work, as it can read and store all the TPMS IDs and their locations, then you plug it into the OBD and it'll upload to the ECU and you'll be all set.

You'll have to review the service manual or the internets for the RAV4 to see what method(s) is required for TPMS programming. If you don't mind spending a couple extra bucks, the Quickset X will be more useful overall as it'll have a higher compatibility (more vehicles it works with) given it's ability to directly upload TPMS IDs, so may be more useful down the road.

This is just a guess, but given the product page for the V31 says "supports all domestic cars" and the Quickset X doesn't say that, I'd hazard a guess that most US car makers supported the trigger relearn, while brands like Toyota needed to be uploaded to the ECU instead (unless they support driving TPMS learns), which means you'll probably need the Quickset X or other similar tool that can connect to the OBD port.


That's fair. It is always good to double check, and I usually do.

Like you, I abhor those stick-style gauges. Those are crap. But I tried a digital one once ($10 Slime), and I hated it. It took several seconds to get a reading, and would power off after a certain amount of time which often meant it would power off as I was getting the pressure reading from the 3rd or 4th tire. I then got one of those analog gauges with a hose and absolutely love it. Super fast, holds the reading so just press it up, get a good seal, and you can immediately pull it off if you'd like. Also has a vent valve, so if you need to let pressure out, just keep the gauge held on and press the button to drain air. Stop pressing to get a reading in a fraction of a second, then keep pressing to continue lowering pressure if too high.
Wow! thanks for a very elaborate reply that actually helped me understand a little more about tpms......
I guess I will have to buy one of those fancier clone tpms machines.... That way I can buy a virgin tpms "clone it" and install it.
again thank you so much!
 

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Wow! thanks for a very elaborate reply that actually helped me understand a little more about tpms......
I guess I will have to buy one of those fancier clone tpms machines.... That way I can buy a virgin tpms "clone it" and install it.
again thank you so much!
You're welcome.

Quick question: Is there a specific reason you want to clone a sensor? The car doesn't care what ID of sensor it has. So if you're just replacing a single sensor, buy an OEM sensor (or equivalent compatible NON-blank aftermarket TPMS sensor), then use the Quickset X to read the ID of the sensor and program that into the car and you're done.

The Quickset X is about $200, and should do everything you need to do TPMS wise short of cloning. For cloning, there's something like the Autel TS508 that's about $260. It can only program Autel TPMS sensors though, it's locked and will not program other brands of aftermarket sensors. If you want something that can program any brand of programmable TPMS sensor, you're looking at something like the ATEQ VT47 which is about $480.

Oh, there is the Autel TS408, which can also program (clone) Autel TPMS sensors. But it cannot do the OBD programming that the Quickset X, Autel TS508, and ATEQ VT47 can do. So while you can clone any number of new Autel sensors to work with your car, if you ever want to use an OEM or non-Autel sensor, the TS408 won't work for you unless your car supports trigger-based relearn, as it lacks the OBD connector to directly program the IDs into the ECU.

The only reason to clone sensors that I am aware of (someone correct me if I'm wrong) is if you want to have a set of summer tires and a set of winter tires and do not want to reprogram the car at each seasonal change. Not all cars even allow this, as some cars will be fine if you rotate tires but keep the same IDs, and some (like my Honda) needed a reprogram if you rotated the tires, so clones wouldn't help there unless you never wanted to rotate tires. But reprogramming the car isn't hard. You should be able to do that in just a couple minutes with the Quickset X.

More info on cloning. TPMS Quick Reference (common problems/solutions/cloning etc.) - MirageForum.com
 

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You're welcome.

Quick question: Is there a specific reason you want to clone a sensor? The car doesn't care what ID of sensor it has. So if you're just replacing a single sensor, buy an OEM sensor (or equivalent compatible NON-blank aftermarket TPMS sensor), then use the Quickset X to read the ID of the sensor and program that into the car and you're done.

The Quickset X is about $200, and should do everything you need to do TPMS wise short of cloning. For cloning, there's something like the Autel TS508 that's about $260. It can only program Autel TPMS sensors though, it's locked and will not program other brands of aftermarket sensors. If you want something that can program any brand of programmable TPMS sensor, you're looking at something like the ATEQ VT47 which is about $480.

Oh, there is the Autel TS408, which can also program (clone) Autel TPMS sensors. But it cannot do the OBD programming that the Quickset X, Autel TS508, and ATEQ VT47 can do. So while you can clone any number of new Autel sensors to work with your car, if you ever want to use an OEM or non-Autel sensor, the TS408 won't work for you unless your car supports trigger-based relearn, as it lacks the OBD connector to directly program the IDs into the ECU.

The only reason to clone sensors that I am aware of (someone correct me if I'm wrong) is if you want to have a set of summer tires and a set of winter tires and do not want to reprogram the car at each seasonal change. Not all cars even allow this, as some cars will be fine if you rotate tires but keep the same IDs, and some (like my Honda) needed a reprogram if you rotated the tires, so clones wouldn't help there unless you never wanted to rotate tires. But reprogramming the car isn't hard. You should be able to do that in just a couple minutes with the Quickset X.

More info on cloning. TPMS Quick Reference (common problems/solutions/cloning etc.) - MirageForum.com
ahhh gotcha
I see your point, no need to clone sensors for me: actually in Laredo TX we dont need winter tires. I thought cloning a sensor would be an easy way out of programming the ECU of the car but I will check the quickset X to program the ECU......
Again thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of TPMS!
best regards!
 

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I suspect I can speak for most folks here when I say how jealous I am of your owning that device! My 2011 Sienna has a "tire low" light, no indication of which tire, even, which is irritating (but yeah, 1000% better than having to check 'em by hand regularly). $130 is a bit steep for a tool I'll use a couple of times a year, but you had an excuse to buy one, so now we all hate you. Just sayin'.
 

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I just read this thread with interest. The TPMS light went on in my 2015 gen3 the day before yesterday. Turned out all the tires had dropped about 2 to 3 pounds during the cold snap we are having. But one tire had dropped 5 lb and this was the tire that was going flat on me when I was out in South Dakota a few weeks ago. I pulled a sheet metal screw from it. Repair was made at the campsite using a tire repair kit and 12 volt compressor I have. All the tire pressures were fine when I left South Dakota for North Carolina. It wasn't until the TPMS light came on that I began wondering about the tire plug I had used. Pumped all the tires back up to operating pressure and will see what happens over the next week or two. The puncture was right where the tread meets the sidewall.

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I see your point, no need to clone sensors for me: actually in Laredo TX we dont need winter tires.
Didn't you all get Uri just last year?

About a week ago already added few psi in all tires and with temps getting colder we're at about 35-36 cold psi.
I always thought the "psi" were legal only in the US. Some of them must have been smuggled into Canada, hidden in vehicle tires :)
 
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