[DC_Dave]

First, please let me say... Thank you SBS! I just went through this procedure when replacing my bad engine. SBS is right, it's no big deal, and SBS tips really help. The only problem I had was visualizing what I needed to do before actually taking the transfer case apart. First, let me say that I don't have any miles on my transfer case reseal, so I may have messed it up. All the gaskets I needed were in gasket kit 04362-48010 (~$55).

A couple of comments about my situation: 153k 2008 with a "seep" on the bottom of the transfer case. When I pulled it apart, the RH bearing assembly weep hole was dry! I was leaking from the cover - hah!

OK, here are some adds:

Drain x-fer case, remove cover & eight bolts and drain (mine took 30 minutes, and still had gear lube in it). Remove RH bearing assembly (part 1, I used a dead blow hammer to turn one of the bolt "ears" and then tap it out until it was free). As above, remove LH lock sleeve (essentially opposite to the RH bearing assembly) shown as a splined collar, o-ring, and snap ring. You may want to support the ring gear assembly when you remove the LH lock sleeve, but you probably don't have to. Once the LH lock sleeve is out, you can Carefully pull out (just barely) the ring gear carrier assembly.

Here's the process that I followed: On the right hand side, pry out oil seal #3. I used a HF seal puller, but I ended up lightly scratching the seal bore, so be careful. Now, from the other side, using a wood dowel (I bought a 48x1/2" from HD and cut it down to size), insert your dowel through 9 & 8, and push on one side of the double oil seal 7 until it's turned sideways in the bore. Now you can insert your dowel through the other side (where 3 used to be) and tap on alternating sides of 8 to drive out bearing race 9 that's just pressed into assembly 1. Once 8 & 9 are out, you can reach in and easily pull out 7.

Careful, because 7 is three pieces. Two oil seals and a nylon spacer between them. When you assemble them, the ridges on the edge the oil seals are oriented away from the nylon spacer.

Important: fully lubricate all seals with gear oil before installing.

I ended up pressing all the seals in with sockets from a HF 3/4" metric socket set, but I did have access to a 20T HF press that I used to square up the parts. I used a dead blow hammer to knock off the tail shaft with alternating blows. I scratched the bore of the tail shaft output seal and had to sand it and lubricate it with grease before inserting the replacement seal.

You're going to need an accurate (<1mm) caliper to measure the depth of the seals.

I didn't check or reset the pinion pre-load since I didn't disturb any bearings, but do make sure bearing race 9 is fully seated.