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Discussion Starter #1
Every Sienna site/forum had discussion about front door's issue. I am not sure whether the issue is a big one or a small one, but discussions were long, noisy and heated. I have only one TSB (see attached) related to this issue, hopefully it is still helpful. I am posting it in our very new site to “precipitate” further discussions.
 

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Re: DOOR Check Popping NOISE

You know, I've got a lease turn in 06 XLE with the door pop problem. It's really annoying, and we'll have to get it fixed before it sells. What a wierd sound, opening your door to hear and feel that.
 

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Re: DOOR Check Popping NOISE

We had it with our '04 and unfortuantely was out of the extended warrantee that Toyota did so I had to attempt a fix myself. I drilled holes above and below the door check strap through the door frame and the door cup that breaks loose. I installed some stainless bolts with locking nuts on the inside. It was a pain in the rear and took me about 2 hours to finally get lucky and get the top nut started on the bolt. It is completely covered by a piece holding the window track that is welded in also so you have to work under that piece and there is only about 3/4 inch of clearance between the piece and the door frame. I really hope it holds. I checked if for tightness after a month or so and it had not appeared to have loosened at all.
 

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Re: DOOR Check Popping NOISE

I had started the Door Check thread 4 years ago at Siennaclub. My driver side door has been replaced twice under warranty (2005 & 2008). This was apparently corrected for the 2007 model year so as long no 2007 models are affected then it should no longer be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Could someone answer a few questions below:

jlyang said:
TSB is very relevant to my van too. For those of you who had it done, was it a big pain in the ass? (e.g., needing to drop off your van for a few days so being short a vehicle during that time?). I am not sure whether it would be a good or bad idea to get it done at the Toyota dealership where I bought this '05 Sienna. If the dealer is not capable enough to replace a broken wiper blade that I told them 5 times was broken, perhaps they're not competent enough to do the door either.
I just copied these questions from place where these were already forgotten....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
...seems like new development:

jlyang said:
Hi folks,
FYI that last week when I was at the service desk at the Toyota dealership where I bought an '05 Sienna, I asked them if the door check TSB (where Toyota covers the cost of the repair) is good until 5 years/100k miles. Several service writers all said "it is now a recall" and that there's therefore a lifetime warranty on this problem. Hopefully they were correct, and I'm passing this on in hopes it can help somebody else.
 

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That would be GREAT news, from [jlyang]. We just need someone to confirm it.

IMHO, I doubt it would be a "lifetime" warranty. That would open themselves (Toyota) up to too much incalculable liability.
Most recalls would also specify some type of time limit. You cannot reasonably expect a manufacturer to extend a "claim" period indefinitely or for a very prolonged time.

But, I could be wrong....

Thankfully, my doors are ok....thus far (knock on fake wood-trim).
Good Luck!! 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree with topspy - if there is a recall, it might be limited in time and... space! Someone may need to check out Toyota Canada -- whether they follow or not.

topspy said:
Thankfully, my doors are ok....thus far (knock on fake wood-trim).
Thus far, my doors are OK too... (no fake wood-trim inside CE - I knocked on my head instead :eek: ), but because, in part, of this issue, I bought an extended warranty...
 

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Re: DOOR Check Popping NOISE

p220sigman said:
We had it with our '04 and unfortuantely was out of the extended warrantee that Toyota did so I had to attempt a fix myself. I drilled holes above and below the door check strap through the door frame and the door cup that breaks loose. I installed some stainless bolts with locking nuts on the inside. It was a pain in the rear and took me about 2 hours to finally get lucky and get the top nut started on the bolt. It is completely covered by a piece holding the window track that is welded in also so you have to work under that piece and there is only about 3/4 inch of clearance between the piece and the door frame. I really hope it holds. I checked if for tightness after a month or so and it had not appeared to have loosened at all.
Did you have to remove the door to do this repair? I would think so. We are a little over 5 years and almost 100k miles, so I'm thinking I will have to do this myself. I'm waiting for a service advisor to call me back.

How difficult is it to remove the door panel on the inside? Any help you can offer will be great!
 

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Re: DOOR Check Popping NOISE

fallsrider said:
p220sigman said:
We had it with our '04 and unfortuantely was out of the extended warrantee that Toyota did so I had to attempt a fix myself. I drilled holes above and below the door check strap through the door frame and the door cup that breaks loose. I installed some stainless bolts with locking nuts on the inside. It was a pain in the rear and took me about 2 hours to finally get lucky and get the top nut started on the bolt. It is completely covered by a piece holding the window track that is welded in also so you have to work under that piece and there is only about 3/4 inch of clearance between the piece and the door frame. I really hope it holds. I checked if for tightness after a month or so and it had not appeared to have loosened at all.
Did you have to remove the door to do this repair? I would think so. We are a little over 5 years and almost 100k miles, so I'm thinking I will have to do this myself. I'm waiting for a service advisor to call me back.

How difficult is it to remove the door panel on the inside? Any help you can offer will be great!
I didn't have to remove the door, but did take the check strap loose from the frame to give me a little more room. You will need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment for your regular drill. You also have to be very careful that you don't let the door swing too far open or you run the risk of creasing the door against the front fender.

Taking the panel off is relatively simple. Somewhere on here are instructions, but basically, take the trim piece at the top of the panel (right behind the outside mirror) off. It just snaps off at the bottom and then there is a tab that slides out. Behind the door handle is a plastic trim piece that snaps out and there is a screw behind that (if I remember correctly). There is a screw inside the door (arm rest) pocket and then there is a clip at the rear of the pocket that you have to press in with a thin screwdriver. If you look at the edge of the door where the latch is, you slide the screwdriving in at the center of the gap between the armrest pocket and the door panel and then pull the door pocket up. There is a metal clip at the front of that pocket/window control panel so once you pull the pocket assembly up, it has to slide towards the rear to get it out. You can unplug the door lock/window controls and set the pocket aside. There is a small plastic support piece by the door handle that has to be removed (you will see the screw(s)) and then there is a larger screw holding the panel on. Once you have all of the screws out move to the outer edge of the panel. There is a plastic "screw" above the latch that you will need to take out. Once you unscrew it a little, you will be able to pull it out. For the last part, you really need a panel puller (you can pick one up for a few bucks at an auto parts dealer), but some just pull on the panel to pull the door clips free from the door. Starting at the back of the door panel near the top and working around the edge, there are 8-10 clips attached to the door panel that pop into holes in the door. All of these need to popped loose as you pull out on the panel. Once the panel is free from the door, you will have to lift the panel straight up to release it from the window channel. When the panel is separated from the door, the last thing you will need to do is release the door lock and opening wires. You will see that these are a ball/slot mechanism so you just have to manipulate the wires to the appropriate slots to release them and set the panel aside. The best way to gain access to the area you will need to get to is to remove the speaker. The remaining part of installing the small screws (I used stainless button cap screws) is simply drilling the holes and inserting the screws and putting the nuts on (I also used nylock nuts) the screws and tightening it all up. The problem is that the room is very restricted due to the window channel. You have to do it all by feel and I had to tape the nuts to a small wrench and just use feel to get it started by turning the screw. It to a while to say the least. The fix itself isn't that hard to do, just time consuming. It actually took me longer to explain removing the panel than it does to actually remove it. Just take your time and if things don't seem to be coming off easily, back up and make sure you didn't miss a screw.

The good news is that it held the door cup in place and remains tight to this day and the "fix" only cost me about 5 dollars. The bad news is that the metal of the cup itself is now torn so I still have the same problem. I haven't decided what I'm going to do at this point.
 

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To me this issue is NOT something any company worth their salt would allow their customers be hung out to dry on ( a.k.a - the big three ). I have an '04 sienna and I am not overly impressed with the quality and durability (power doors also...). I think toyota should stand up and do the right thing. They should extend the warranty on these items to 200,000 km. I will definitely shop the competition when the time comes. I only wish that my sienna would have been built (and engineered) with the same quality of my '98 camry. Toyota seems not to care... does that sound familiar? These are things that shouldn't go wrong ever (the door straps) or should last at least 10 years in my opinion. :(
 

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Thanks, sigman. If I can't get Toyota to respond, I will attempt the repair myself, as I am pretty handy with stuff like that. I wasn't sure where to start with the panel, though. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Hopefully our door cup won't tear.

Could you buy a new door cup and slip it in there somehow? Since they come spot welded on, I don't know that you could get that part separately. It might come built into the door as an integral part.

Thanks again.
 

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Re: DOOR Check Popping NOISE

p220sigman said:
I didn't have to remove the door, but did take the check strap loose from the frame to give me a little more room. You will need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment for your regular drill. You also have to be very careful that you don't let the door swing too far open or you run the risk of creasing the door against the front fender....
Well, I tackled this job today...and was successful! Your instructions on removing the panel were great! Once I got in there, I realized that only the bottom spot weld was broken loose. The top one was still secure.

I strongly contemplated going and buying me a small MIG welder. One, because that is how Toyota fixes the brackets in their TSB about this problem, and two, because I would like to have one. But I didn't need to spend the money now, so I went the cheap route and installed one 1/4" diameter by 1/2" long stainless hex head bolt with a nylock nut. I also put a locking washer under the head on the outside of the door frame. I was concerned that the hex head would hit the van side of the door frame when the door was closed, but it doesn't. As you stated, getting the nut in there was tricky! I finally got it by wrapping tape around my index finger and sticking the nut to the tape. I couldn't believe how quickly I got it threaded once I figured that out. Boy, they don't give you much flange to work with on the bottom of the cup, do they? I think the nut is probably 1/2 to 2/3 on the flange. I was afraid to go much higher for fear the nut would hit the "cup" part and not thread on.

Well, anyway, it is fixed, and I couldn't be happier. The quietness of the door is wonderful now. The question remains, though, will it last a long time, or will this cup fail, too, just like yours. If it breaks again, I think I will try to buy a new cup, and MIG weld it in like the TSB shows.

And the best news is...it cost me $0.84 to fix it!

Thanks again for your help. It saved me a lot of time....and money.
 

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Glad it worked for you. Hopefully you will have better luck with the door cup than I did. You are fortunate tha it was the bottom one if I remember correctly, the top was much more difficult to get to in order to get the nut started. I was afraid the hex screws would hit the door as well, so I went with stainless button caps and nylock nuts. They are still tight. I will probably have a body shop see if they can fix/weld it. I did check and the door cup is part of the door assembly so I can't get it seperate.
 

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p220sigman said:
...I did check and the door cup is part of the door assembly so I can't get it seperate.
Ouch!

I hope mine holds. It looks like they would at least sell you just the cup for a reasonable price considering how much trouble they've had with them. But I'm sure they would rather take our money in the shop to replace the door.
 

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Toyota Quality

[size=10pt][size=10pt]Thanks for the TSB. Its a start in trying to resolve this door check mount problem. Just got back from an oil change at Toyota and the news is that I need a new door! Yep crazy, thanks Toyota for ruining my new year. The dealership did not say much about it except for a shrug of the shoulders. They directed me to a Ford body shop for repairs (Ford?) am I missing something here! Anyway I will post what Ford tells me about this situation as I hope to get a different response and hope to hear the word repair other than replace.

SR
[/size][/size]
 

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Sorry about your door diagnosis. :eek: :mad: :'(

A body shop is a body shop. What counts is the training, skill, and experience of the employees as well as the tools/equipment/materials/parts they use. Either the Ford shop has a great reputation for doing good work in your local area, or they are less expensive and maybe have an agreement with your Toyota dealer to take referrals. It is also possible that the actual "body shop" operation is a separate business which only rents space at the Ford dealership and conducts business there (which because of convenience and proximity may involve a majority of Ford vehicle owners but is not strictly limited to Fords only), or they might be a separate affiliated subsidiary of the "dealership" (not Ford "corporate"). You could always just ask them what their relationship is....??? ???

If you swing by there and they tend to have a lot of other non-Ford makes/models in their lot/shop (especially $$$$$ brands like Benz, BMW, Lexus, Porsche, etc) then that is probably a good sign that they will work on any car while providing high-quality work for the more discerning brands' customers. It really shouldn't matter that they are a "Ford" shop. Metal, plastic, paint, etc doesn't care what brand or logo appears on it after the work is completed.

Ask some of your friends if they know of any good shops too. DO NOT ask YOUR insurance agent because they might think you are trying to bypass them on a "claim". Get some quotes and get a feel for the different shops. Pick the one you are most comfortable using....

Let us know how it goes...

YMMV.
Good Luck!! 8)
 

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I've got this problem AGAIN on my 2004 Sienna. They fixed it once a few years back, but ITS BBBBAAACCCKKK! And, as luck would have it, I'm now just over 100K, so it's out of warranty (probably bit more out of warranty from a time standpoint) even with the "enhanced warranty". Seems like this really should've been a recall. I called 1-800-331-4331 anyway, I've got a case number, and I'm going to report it to the NHTSA.....

Now I haven't done all the actual load calculations, but the engineer in me (and I am an engineer) tells me that those big old Sienna doors need more than two spot welds for these door checks. Really underdesigned IMHO.

sunnygator
 

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sunnygator said:
I called 1-800-331-4331 anyway, I've got a case number, and I'm going to report it to the NHTSA.....

Now I haven't done all the actual load calculations, but the engineer in me (and I am an engineer) tells me that those big old Sienna doors need more than two spot welds for these door checks. Really underdesigned IMHO.

sunnygator
The part that is faulty is welds for a door check. I don't see this as being a "safety" issue. It is not like your door is going to fall off. I don't see why you would file a complaint with the NHTSA? The welds break away from the door. This would indicate that it breaks away when the door closes(no load to speak of) as it is just a low friction door check.

How was your first door fixed? Did they replace the whole door?
 
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