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On the driver's door armrest, the PIN for the storage compartment fell out somehow and got lost. Got the pin from Toyota for 2 dollars and now it's all fixed. Easiest repair ever
 

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How did you do that? What did you use? I want to do the same. Is it removable?
It was easy. The sheet is just a 2' x 4' sheet of plywood. I forget which thickness off the top of my head, but I think it was 3/4 inch that I grabbed at home depot. I glued some rubber matting that I got off amazon to it from Amazon Rubber Mat Amazon

Since I usually ride with just one bike, but sometimes up to three, I wanted the fork mounts to be movable. So I simply screwed in two 4 foot strips of L-Track to the sheet of plywood. Then I got fork mounts that hook on to the L-Track. So they simply snap on and off. I got those here, though I will probably just make my own next time L Track Fork Mounts

For the wheel carriers, I bought this wheel hitch off amazon amazon wheel hitch. In the photo ,they are screwed into the sheet of plywood. But I later drilled a hole into the carrier and slotted them into an L-Track fitting so I can move them around. This is the fitting I used L Track stud fitting. The reason I used this is particular mount was the quick release. If you are just bolting them in, you could use different ones. Note, my big 29er Enduro wheels weren't sitting totally into the carrier as they hit the plywood further back, so you need to space the carrier up about a half inch or so somehow. The height of the L-Track was perfect. With the height of the L-Track and the fitting, they are now actually suspended in the air a bit. Road wheels or 27.5's fit fine, and probably smaller 29ers as well.

The wheel carriers are for quick release axles. Fine for road bikes, but don't work with thru axles, plus I needed a second set of axles anyway to hold the tires on. Since the first axle is holding the forks down on the bike. So I bought these Yakima thru-axle adapters on Etrailer here Yakima Thru Axle Adapter

Took maybe a half hour to assemble. Make sure to get Polyeurethane glue or the matt won't stick to the wood well. With the mount on the foremost row of L-Track, the Megatower fits with the second row moved up just slightly. Still plenty of room for passengers. If it's any longer than that, you might have to slide it all the way up. But that would probably take a huge downhill bike. Or just slot it through the middle captains chairs. I am typically going to use it with the Megatower and front wheel on the passenger side. So my bin with tools, gear etc goes on the right and then my portable bike washer. With all that, still end up with plenty of room for camping gear etc.

The rack weighs maybe ten pounds and just slides out if I need to move it.
 

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Went to the snow, and my rear power hatch would start to open and then close by itself. After a bit of fiddling, figured it was the struts. They were squeaking and vibrating a lot and not able to push the hatch open, just strong enough to keep it at the level I left it. Bought the strong arm ones on Amazon for about $30. replaced the 12 year old OEM ones in about 7 minutes with my wife to manipulate the heavy hatch. Ladder to prevent the hatch from closing and crushing us.

Works perfect now and one of the easiest car repairs I've ever done. My biggest takeaway though was how heavy the hatch is without the struts to help. I also replaced one strut, then moved to the other side. Even when broken, those old ones still helped a lot with the weight.
 

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I recently installed a dash cam , on the windshield in front of the rear view mirror. I ran the wire along the inside edge of the headliner and down the "A" pillar cover , very importantly , on the windshield side so as not to impeded the airbags motion located there. I then ran the wire down the side of the dashboard and hooked it up to an empty slot that is controlled by the ignition switch. I used an "add a circuit" fuse adapter for electrical connection. The only drawback is that the black fuse cover with the fuses identification cannot be put back in place. I am ok with that as I will store the cover in the glove box . A plastic tool from my trim removal kit was very handy for the install.
 

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I recently installed a dash cam , on the windshield in front of the rear view mirror. I ran the wire along the inside edge of the headliner and down the "A" pillar cover , very importantly , on the windshield side so as not to impeded the airbags motion located there. I then ran the wire down the side of the dashboard and hooked it up to an empty slot that is controlled by the ignition switch. I used an "add a circuit" fuse adapter for electrical connection. The only drawback is that the black fuse cover with the fuses identification cannot be put back in place. I am ok with that as I will store the cover in the glove box . A plastic tool from my trim removal kit was very handy for the install.
Exactly how I did it. Everytime I go in the glove box, I see the fuse box cover and it still bothers me! Even tried a more expensive low profile type add a fuse and no dice!

Maybe I'm just getting older and grumpier, maybe the driver's are getting worse out there, but it'd be nice to have dash cams on all 4 side of the vehicle. My wife thinks I'm a bit crazy. She's probably right. Now get off my lawn!
 

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Decided to check my tire pressures today (which I actually do regularly) and realized I haven't looked at my spare tire in a long time. Dropped it, cleaned it ( was filthy), and no dry rot. Spare tire was at 24psi when it's supposed to be 60. Inflated and raised it back up.

Anyone know where to get the 5 point socket and what size it is required to lower the spare? Would rather use my ratchet than the contraption in the trunk.
 

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Don't want to make a thread but does anyone know the part number for the oem Toyota constant tension hose clamps located on the power steering and transmission cooler lines? I looked up the diagrams and it appears those clamps are sold as part of the whole unit including hoses. Thanks!
 

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How exactly did you get the pin in?
I need 2 for my passenger side.
It was very easy. I don't really remember the fine points but here's the gross points. there is holes for the pin in the door compartment and holes for the pin in the section that flaps up and down. My fingers got the pin in loosely but needed a flat screwdriver to press it in all the way. Compare with your driver's side. This shouldn't take more than a minute or two to do!

Pin is part number 68791AE010 and was $2.00 from my local dealer, ordered online through Toyota parts with pickup at dealer.
 

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Replaced steering rack and pinion over the weekend. Kit from RackDoctor was nice but did not come with new o-rings for the power steering lines. I had to use a Dornam variety pack for about $8 from O-Reiley and selected the Viton rings just for kicks. I was not sure what kind of "rubber" the standard Dorman o-rings were so could not be sure the were Nitrile (NBR) and sufficient for automatic transmission fluid.
I was hoping this would fix a suspention related knock sound. On test drive everything felt better but the knock persisted. Back in the drive, upon inspection I could feel an ever so slight click in the steering intermediate shaft when my 7 year old tuned the wheel with the tires on the ground, so I ordered a replacement from toyotapartsdeals and got an alignment.
At the alignment shop yesterday the tech wanted to bet me $5 that the knock wasn't the steering intermediate shaft. He found that one of the front two bolts on my drivers side lower control arm was loose and tightened it up. So the knock is gone, I get to return a $250 steering intermediate shaft and they did a great alignment!
 
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