[FishOutOfWater]

I also replaced a bad o-ring on my power steering reservoir cap. The new ring looked dimensionally exactly like the old one I removed. The new one at 1-5/16" ID and 3/32" thickness made the cap fit nice and tight while the old o-ring had the cap just kind of sit there lightly and would spit little drops of ATF fluid to odd places when starting the van like some mystery leak. Now that I know the size, I can order a Viton (FKM/Flourocarbon) or Nitrile (Buna-N/NBR) replacement.

 

[Majafam]

Didn't drive my van for about a week because of the storm. Getting ready to run errands with the kids and boom, van won't start. Jump it and the van runs good. Battery isn't up for the job anymore really however and voltages aren't good. Got a new battery from Costco and all is well.

Old battery was an ever start max from Walmart and didn't even last 3 years. I usually get interstate from Costco and have never had my cars not start.

My 2015 Prius battery is now 5 years old. Gotta tackle that soon. Been procrastinating.

 

[Joshpeck]

New control arms and motor mounts in. Just dropped it at the shop to have the pros install new struts shocks and a lift.

 

[FishOutOfWater]

I pulled my left and right motor mounts to get to the control arm bolts. My alignment shop said they heard a clunk and found a control arm bolt was loose. Last year I did the control arm bushings and one of the bolts must have been a little loose. I re-tightened and red loctited all three bolts on each control arm where it fastens to the sub frame.

By the way, if you do this job, getting the front bushing pressed in to just the right depth is critical to having all the bolt holes line up just right is super critical. If I had to do this again, I would replace the bolts with studs to be sure not to cross thread anything, then just slide the control arm into place.

I will also be replacing the sway bar bushing bolts with studs where they attach to the sub frame for this same reason. Even with the sway bar unbolted from everything it is still really difficult to get those four bolts in strait without cross threading. Studs would go in easy, then the brackets could drop right on.

 

[FishOutOfWater]

I also greased the backing plate (shim) on my front brakes. They were shifting a bit creating a clunk sound.

 

[supra129]

I also greased the backing plate (shim) on my front brakes. They were shifting a bit creating a clunk sound.

Did you also grease the slide pin in the calipers?

 

[paul r]

For a while now my brakes have been pulsing? and so I removed the rotors and they appeared heavily glazed. I used 60 grit garnet sandpaper and cleaned them up. I also did the pads. I greased applicable areas on the calipers and rotors including the pins , with sil glyde lubricant. I treated all rubber boots , bushings with AT-205 while I was under the van. I touched up metal areas with a marine corrosion protective spray.

 

[Craigrrr]

Just installed new lower control arms and cv axles on both sides My axles came with a dented dust shield so I had them send out a new dust cover. Fun Fun ... NOT I did the KYB strut plus on both fronts last summer. and installed a 2" rear coil spring lift last summer oh and stabilizer links last summer, this summer will be a 1.5" strut spacers

 

[paul r]

My axles came with a dented dust shield so I had them send out a new dust cover.

This happened to me also on the first one, and I had to return it. So on the second one i opened up the box at the store and checked. Sure enough the shield was dented so another good one was brought out. Poor packaging I guess. One thing I did learn about those shields is that they can be tapped in close to the axle seals if you deem the space to be too much.