[BigDaddy15801]

I have a 2012 Sienna with this issue 106k miles. Local Toyota dealer quoted me $2250 labor included for a new differential to fix this issues. I found this web site and chat thank god. I also ran into a issue with my local Toyota dealer not wanting to give me the bearing part. He wanted a VIN number than said it would not fit my Sienna. So I ordered the same bearing from 123bearing.com see link below. It cost $78 plus $22 for shipping from France. My mechanic put it on for $250. Good luck
123bearing.com part number 95DSF01-NSK 95x120x17 mm

 

[vik1120]

No such luck for me. My mechanic did not want to replace the bearing alone. Bought the coupler (part number 41303-28013) on line for 1163 plus 29 dollars for delivery and 325 for labor. The issue is now resolved. Total cost 1517

 

[NavyRose]

Stumbled on this post the other day when my 14 Sienna AWD started whirring. Took it to the shop today and am told that the rear differential needs work (I was expecting this) but it was caused because all four tires were not replaced at the same time. Has anyone else been given a specific cause? Wondering if I am being given a load of .... because I bought it Certified PreOwned and the tires had not been previously replaced 4 at a time. Would really like to know. Thank you.

 

[NavyRose]

Had the same problem crop up over the weekend with my 2014. Am being told by the dealership it’s because all four tires were not changed at the same time.

 

[CrosscountryLin]

By the helps from this forum n some YouTube video, I have taken out the bad bearing prepare to replace a new one(around $45)! During the cleaning- a spacer or bushing came out n found some chipping one end! Anyone know this part #?, I guessed will grind it flat to install for now! I’ll update after repair

 

[CrosscountryLin]

Also found my 2011 sienna used the bearing with an o-ring but new one 90963-95007without

 

[CrosscountryLin]

Repair n Test results good! I got the smaller bearing but old one still good! So in most case people will need the new big bearing, dust cover, gear oil n crush washer to finish this fix! Small parts cost vs stealer’s 2k estimates!
I also replace the oil in front transfer n transmission! The failure reasons can be too complicated but if someone just want to blame it on not changing 4 tires together- that’s BS!

 

[xsnrg]

Was this coupling bearing an issue on gen 2 Sienna AWD? I'm borrowing my brother's 2006 with 150k on it and it's making a whirring noise in the rear which we both believed was a wheel bearing. I found this thread searching about that.

 

[NavyRose]

Repair n Test results good! I got the smaller bearing but old one still good! So in most case people will need the new big bearing, dust cover, gear oil n crush washer to finish this fix! Small parts cost vs stealer’s 2k estimates!
I also replace the oil in front transfer n transmission! The failure reasons can be too complicated but if someone just want to blame it on not changing 4 tires together- that’s BS!

Great job on the repair and cost savings. They ended up fixing mine under warranty; nice to know that is the issue for next go round since I intend on driving this for many years. Also glad that someone else agrees with the tire story being BS!

 

[JanSolo]

Hi Siennistas,

I did the DIY repair on my 2011 Limited last weekend and everything went well!
The whining noise is gone and the van drives great!

However! I may have F'ed it up....

I was tidying up my garage after today and I found a part underneath some tools. A part that I'm pretty sure should be inside my coupler! Doh!
It's a steel washer with an OD of about 4in and an ID of maybe 3.5in. I think the official name in the PDF on page 1 is 'Coupling conical spring washer'.

So my question is: Do I need to tear it all apart again and replace this washer? Or will it work OK without it?
What could go wrong if I don't have this washer in there?
I'll do it if I have to; but I'd rather not. It was a lot of work to get it all back together!

Thanks!

 

[wonderballz]

Hi Everyone. So I am gearing up to do this bearing change. I ordered both the non-O-ring bearing as well as the bearing with the O-ring.

Which do you guys think I should install? I have 2 tubes of the Toyota orange silicone, so I am prepared to do either.

Also, for those of you who did the change yourself, how long did it take you?

Thanks!

 

[serrilion]

Hi Everyone. So I am gearing up to do this bearing change. I ordered both the non-O-ring bearing as well as the bearing with the O-ring.

Which do you guys think I should install? I have 2 tubes of the Toyota orange silicone, so I am prepared to do either.

Also, for those of you who did the change yourself, how long did it take you?

Thanks!

i used the non o ting beating and RTV. 10k no idsues, i had a handpress took me 15 mins out old in with new.... total time wth drive on stands maybe 2 hours. I aslo swapped both diff fluids and trans so

 

[wonderballz]

i used the non o ting beating and RTV. 10k no idsues, i had a handpress took me 15 mins out old in with new.... total time wth drive on stands maybe 2 hours. I aslo swapped both diff fluids and trans so

Just did this fix on Saturday, and all of the bolts were seized in some way or form. Gotta love Northeast winters! Anyhow, the fix took me about 8 hours. I couldn't remove the studs for the propellar shaft, so I ended up dropping the driveshaft and pulling the coupler off that way. Hammering the bearing out took a while as well. The fix was pretty straight forward, and I saved myself a few thousand dollars, so I would say it was well worth it. I love the fact that the van is so quiet now, that I drove it with no music the last couple of days! But now I hear a squeek coming from where the rear seats mount on the floor....I guess I have more work to do!

Thanks again for the info here! You guys are the reasons I love car forums!

 

[serrilion]

Just did this fix on Saturday, and all of the bolts were seized in some way or form. Gotta love Northeast winters! Anyhow, the fix took me about 8 hours. I couldn't remove the studs for the propellar shaft, so I ended up dropping the driveshaft and pulling the coupler off that way. Hammering the bearing out took a while as well. The fix was pretty straight forward, and I saved myself a few thousand dollars, so I would say it was well worth it. I love the fact that the van is so quiet now, that I drove it with no music the last couple of days! But now I hear a squeek coming from where the rear seats mount on the floor....I guess I have more work to do!

Thanks again for the info here! You guys are the reasons I love car forums!

Seat squeaking can be from the fold down parts, white lithium grease solves that issue, or plastics tend to come lose if crap is slamed into the back often

 

[wonderballz]

Seat squeaking can be from the fold down parts, white lithium grease solves that issue, or plastics tend to come lose if crap is slamed into the back often

Awesome. Thanks, I'll have to pick up some lithium grease next time I venture out.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Toolman1972]

Anyone?

If you have everything in correctly it sits in the groove , you can easily tell if it’s in all the way , spin the snap ring while it’s in the groove

 

[Toolman1972]

May you share with me where I can find the installation instructions?

Thank you

There’s really not much too it ,
Once you have the drive shaft off or loose , pull the front differential mount bolt out ( by the muffler) let the differential swing down , driveshaft comes off without dropping the whole thing .
4 bolts , 1 vent hose and one electrical connector and the coupler assembly comes off .

remove the front dust cover ( drive shaft side) remove the snap-ring
Flip it over and you will have to either push the connector pins out of the plug if you have the tool to do so , or I have taken a 4 “ grinder and careful cut a slot in the hole where the wires go inside the coupler and pulled the connector threw .
Flip it back over drive shaft side down , take a plastic , rubber hammer and tap the housing until it drops out .
Now all you need to do it punch the bearing out and clean the housing and press the bearing in , new bearing has an oring , make sure it faces into the housing not to the driveshaft side , I use a wire wheel on a drill to clean the bore and then a little 180 grit sand paper to nib any burrs , wash it out with beak clean and blow it off .
I use a little grease and tap the bearing in with the housing on a solid surface / wood ect
Make sure your driving it in even .
It’s a 2 hour job with basic tools

 

[TJMelrose]

I know this is an old post, but I had this "Whirring noise" problem on my 2012 AWD Limited. The noise started at around 100k. My solution was to replace the whole rear differential with a used one from a wreck with lower mileage.
For those interested in a better understanding of where this "electronic coupler" comes into play, take a look at the attached "exploded view" diagram. It's the parts in the upper left corner. It attaches to the "input side" of the rear differential.

 

[Jesus7up]

good day. I had the whirring noise on the rear coupler of my sienna 2011. It was repaired by a remote Toyota Dealer here in Canada for under 400$ parts and labor! From what I understand, there are 2 bearings inside the coupler one that can't be replaced and one that can. Most of the time its the one that can be replaced that goes bad (common on RAV 4 apparently ) My local dealer was asking near 1800$ for the complete job including a

 

[Jesus7up]

Thanks I have a question at the dealership, they only sold me 1 conical bearing, I would like to know if I am missing a bearing or if you know the part number. Part number 90366-30099 bearing