[jkowtko]

Has anyone replaced the window run channel (called a "glass run" in the service manual) in their Sienna?

Our front door windows are sticking, resulting in a nice "pop" whenever I open the window because the rubber grabs the window in it's closed position. I've tried cleaning and lightly lubricating the top of the run channel, but I think the rubber is just old and getting tacky ... so in my opinion it's time to replace the rubber.

The instructions seem simply enough in the manual -- remove door panel, remove window glass, then pull out and replace the "glass run".

My question is, should I lubricate the new run channel when I install it? Other car mfgs and internet guides suggest to coat the vertical sections of the run channel with silicone grease/paste or an equivalent. However I don't know if this is just a remedy for old rubber or if this is a standard factory install procedure.

I could not find a DIY thread anywhere ... has anyone done this on their Sienna?

Thanks. John

 

[jkowtko]

Turns out this is extremely simple to do:

1. Remove door panel
2. Peel back clear plastic moisture protector sheet on inside of door (held in place by lots of gummy adhesive)
3. lower window to expose two bottom mounting bolts
4. remove two window mounting bolts (10mm)
5. remove window by raising rear of window and tilting window towards front of car to get it out of the door.

6. Pull out existing run channel. It just pulls out pretty easily. There is a small strip of adhesive near the front upper channel corner about 2" long that you will have to clean up off the door frame. Otherwise the rest of the rubber is just set into the shannel.

Installing new rubber channel


* The rubber channel removes and installs pretty easily. When pressing the new one in, just make sure both front and back ribs are seated properly in the metal frame. You don't slide the rubber in either -- just press it into place.

* Note that the top section of the new rubber part (from rear upper corner of window to front upper corner) appears to be about 5/8" too long. This was done on purpose ... you have to compress the rubber as you set it into the upper part of the channel to get it to fit. The compression fit must have been done to get the rubber to stay snugly in the arched top of the window frame I suggest you start in the front and work your way back to the rear. DO NOT peel back the adhesive strip cover yet!

* Once you have the entire top of the run channel set into place, then push in both sides. I suggest you have one of those plastic push tools to slide inside the channel to make sure it's seated properly all the way around.

* Now that the channel is fully seated, you will still see the adhesive tab sticking out out at the front upper corner. Carefully pull down the rubber enough so that you can remove that adhesive cover, then push rubber back into place.

* NO LUBRICATION on these run channels! They have a felt/fabric runner going down the sides for the windows to slide on.

* Reverse to reinstall window.

One thing I noted immediately is that the window is seated much more snugly with the new run channel, so it now raises and lowers like new again.

I will be doing the passenger side next.

 

[ibbob31]

Thanks
jkowtko- Where did you buy the NEW push in window channel? And how much per side? And again thanks for the "How Too"




Bob

 

[jkowtko]

I bought mine from toyota101.com ... $70 + tax per side ... they happen to be a local dealer that has internet ordering but I can pick up in person and avoid shipping charges, and their prices are pretty close to the rock bottom prices I can find online from other OEM/dealer parts dealers. But parts.com has them for $65 + shipping.

The part #s are:
* R: 68141AE010
* L: 68151AE010

You might be able to find them for slightly less from another dealership somewhere around the country. I would NOT recommend using an aftermarket part (assuming you can find one) ... these rubber pieces have lots of detailed barbs in them and in general I am wary of aftermarket rubber.

For $150 both windows, well worth the price of renewing your front door windows after 10 years

I wish the stock headlights were so cheap ...

 

[jkowtko]

fyi, I just did the passenger side today and managed to make a primitive DIY video out of it ...

 

[josh]

Thanks for the video jkowtko! I just watched about half of it and will be ordering the part so I can take care of this soon. My wife hasn't been able to use her driver side window in awhile.

 

[pnbear]

jkowtko any chance u can do a similar video for the middle row? I was able to remove the panel and sticky plastic. As for removing the window, I was a bit lost in terms of which bolts to remove to get the glass out. Also the middle row seems to be much tighter

 

[pnbear]

To change the window channel for the middle row you have to remove the exterior black trim to the rear of the window which is stuck by three tabs and lots of foam glue. I wish there was a video on this because I broke the tabs for this panel. ?

 

[JMiller]

I just got done doing this on my wife's 2014 driver's side. Interestingly, the passenger side is fine. Tips on this forum and thread in particular are super helpful, thank you. I also found a video where a guy used silicone spray on both the inside and outside channels for ease of install. I bought some but then found it wasn't necessary at all. The runner will simply slide into place and there is also ample room to reach in and push into the door channels.
These runners seem to fail at the top front corner so I use some Loctite spray adhesive at that spot. I believe some year of runners come with an adhesive strip but the 2014 do not, or at least mine did not. So, some adhesive seemed in order. I don't really have any other tips to add - I found putting the window back in rather difficult - you must find just the right angles on two different axes in order to squeeze it in. Just have patience. I only loosely replaced the bolts and then raised and lowered the window several times to get a good seat before tightening them all the way.
Doing this project allowed me a good look at the speakers that have plagued my ears for seven years now. I've seen a lot of OEM speakers and these are by far the worst. I wanted to throw it on the driveway. However, the ease of door panel removal will make for fun speaker replacement project for when my teen takes over the vehicle in six months.

 

[JMiller]

Part number is 68151-08020. Description is RUN, FR DOOR GLASS

Mine cost $66 with shipping.

 

[jkowtko]

jkowtko any chance u can do a similar video for the middle row? I was able to remove the panel and sticky plastic. As for removing the window, I was a bit lost in terms of which bolts to remove to get the glass out. Also the middle row seems to be much tighter

sorry, I haven't done any more windows ... the fronts were the ones that we use the most by far ... per the comments below it sounds like the sliding door windows aren't as simple

 

[jkowtko]

I believe some year of runners come with an adhesive strip but the 2014 do not, or at least mine did not. So, some adhesive seemed in order.

That is a bummer. In my video I point out the adhesive strip for that corner ... it's pretty prominent. But they changed the part between 2004 and 2005 ... oh well. I'm surprised after 10+ years they didn't update it.

 

[JMiller]

Yeah, definitely no adhesive strip on the 14. There are only the foam pieces at each corner. I don't know the specific purpose of the foam except to perhaps fill the void as much as possible. The foam on the old one was smashed on the front corner and missing on the rear.

 

[Anthony123456789]

Turns out this is extremely simple to do:

1. Remove door panel
2. Peel back clear plastic moisture protector sheet on inside of door (held in place by lots of gummy adhesive)
3. lower window to expose two bottom mounting bolts
4. remove two window mounting bolts (10mm)
5. remove window by raising rear of window and tilting window towards front of car to get it out of the door.

6. Pull out existing run channel. It just pulls out pretty easily. There is a small strip of adhesive near the front upper channel corner about 2" long that you will have to clean up off the door frame. Otherwise the rest of the rubber is just set into the shannel.

Installing new rubber channel


* The rubber channel removes and installs pretty easily. When pressing the new one in, just make sure both front and back ribs are seated properly in the metal frame. You don't slide the rubber in either -- just press it into place.

* Note that the top section of the new rubber part (from rear upper corner of window to front upper corner) appears to be about 5/8" too long. This was done on purpose ... you have to compress the rubber as you set it into the upper part of the channel to get it to fit. The compression fit must have been done to get the rubber to stay snugly in the arched top of the window frame I suggest you start in the front and work your way back to the rear. DO NOT peel back the adhesive strip cover yet!

* Once you have the entire top of the run channel set into place, then push in both sides. I suggest you have one of those plastic push tools to slide inside the channel to make sure it's seated properly all the way around.

* Now that the channel is fully seated, you will still see the adhesive tab sticking out out at the front upper corner. Carefully pull down the rubber enough so that you can remove that adhesive cover, then push rubber back into place.

* NO LUBRICATION on these run channels! They have a felt/fabric runner going down the sides for the windows to slide on.

* Reverse to reinstall window.

One thing I noted immediately is that the window is seated much more snugly with the new run channel, so it now raises and lowers like new again.

I will be doing the passenger side next.

Thanks for the advice 👍