[Maverick268]

Hi,

I just got myself a set of LED DRLs and I'm trying to figure out which is the best way to wire these things up.

First off, my kit didn't include a DRL relay harness, just the lights and a set of long wires to connect to a power source.

So here's what i was considering...
1. Buy a DRL relay harness to wire this up or
2. Just use the wires theyve given me and directly wire these things to the battery and find a ACC fuse the tie into.

Any thoughts, advice or how to's out there for me.

Thanks in advance!

 

[fibber2]

It really depends on how you want them to operate. If you want them on all the time, just go with the accessory switched fuse. If you want them to shut off when the headlights are on, you'll need to go with the relay.

 

[Maverick268]

Thanks fibber2.

I just had a thought.... I noticed that there's a DRL fuse in the fuse box. Can I tap the wires into that and that would give me the same operation as my OE DRL?

 

[fibber2]

Maybe..... Do you have DRL operating now? From what I understand, the factory system was implemented in different ways depending on the year - either thru a voltage divider with a high power resistor, or (probably) thru a relay that changed the high beam bulb arrangement from parallel (both getting 12v) to series (each getting 6v) to reduce their lumens output. Given that your LED set is probably low current, you might get away with adding it to this fuse even if you still have the factory DRL in operation. But we'd need to know more....

 

[Maverick268]

That's a good thought fibber2. I had thought about that after it replied.

I've got a 2012 LE AWD. I am in Canada so my DRLs are mandatory i'm afraid and they run thru the high beams on what looks like a reduced voltage to give that awful looking yellow.

I just pulled the specs on my LED DRLs and they operate between 10V-15V DC so if what you say is true and that DRL fuse is only 6V, my DRLs won't light up.

Here's a pic of my DRLs and the wiring set that come with them.
View attachment 5032
I've tested them out and the light they give off look awesome, 6.6W-6000K-400LM. I just need to get them on the car!

 

[fibber2]

The fuse is most likely on the primary side of any voltage reducing ckt, so it is probably still 12v. For determining load you will need to know the current draw or the power in watts. Then we can figure out where to tap.

 

[Maverick268]

Ok, I think I saw somewhere that it should only draw about 0.5A steady current. Does that sound about right for LEDs? I haven't measured it directly yet.

 

[fibber2]

Together or each? I guess each would make sense. 0.5A equates to around 6-7 watts, and given today's better LED bulbs, you could get an output north of 300 lumens. That's better than the 200 or so lumens that each quarter power high beam tungsten bulb produces. I would think there is adequate capacity for adding 1 amp to the existing DRL lighting ckt. Worst that happens is you blow a fuse.

 

[Maverick268]

Thanks for all you help fibber2. I think I'm gonna give a try and see what happens. Like you said, the worst that can happen is I blow a fuse. I did notice however that it doesn't look like just a fuse, it looks like it's a relay/fuse combined. Anyhow, if I blow anything up, i'll be sure to take a pic of my burnt eyebrows for ya. At least it will be a good laugh. :0

 

[fibber2]

Oh no... Do I have to read you the lawyer disclaimer about free advice from the internet???