[Alexotronic]

Good catch. That is the same area (Cylinder 1) that matches the gasket damage. Not sure how to explain the amount of coolant in other cylinders and how cylinder 5 has been steam-cleaned so thoroughly. I'm noticing that there are 2 valves on Cylinder 5 that are dry, not oily/moist like the others.

 

[beansboi123]

Day 1 comes to a troubling end, with the 2 long bolts, and the one connecting to the body AND the one near timing being on very tight. Soaking overnight with WD40.

It's also possible to remove the passenger side engine mount bracket without removing those bolts!
You'll need a skinny 12mm long-reach box end wrench to get down in between the tb cover and the aluminum bracket and undo the bracket from the block. There's also 2 bolts and a stud you remove from below I believe.

 

[Therbi]

First off, you got way bigger stones than I would ever have, so good on you to not only to tackle this one, but to actually post on a forum how its going.
One question though. Wouldn't it have been much easier to do this work if you dropped the motor?
I'm only asking because based on what I'm seeing, you seem to have the skill set to do it.

 

[Roader]

I'm at a disadvantage because I can't see it in person or touch it, but when I magnify this picture it looks to me that carbon was cleaned to bare aluminum in the pink circled areas while combustion gases were pushed into the coolant passage(s) in the green circled area.

 

[maller01]

@Therbi On the 3.3, the engine can actually be pulled from above. If I was tackling this job, I would pull it from above and do this on an engine stand. Way easier in my opinion.

 

[Alexotronic]

It's also possible to remove the passenger side engine mount bracket without removing those bolts!
You'll need a skinny 12mm long-reach box end wrench to get down in between the tb cover and the aluminum bracket and undo the bracket from the block. There's also 2 bolts and a stud you remove from below I believe.

Yeah, that's what I ended up doing (pic + protips above) - Kinda hard to wiggle the entire 2 brackets + mount out over the studs though.

First off, you got way bigger stones than I would ever have, so good on you to not only to tackle this one, but to actually post on a forum how its going.
One question though. Wouldn't it have been much easier to do this work if you dropped the motor?
I'm only asking because based on what I'm seeing, you seem to have the skill set to do it.

Accessing things hasn't been overly difficult, having a folded blanket by hood latch helps when you need to lean deep or kneel on that area. I'd need a bigger (longer) garage and a place to rent a hoist/stand to consider pulling engine though.

 

[Therbi]

Accessing things hasn't been overly difficult, having a folded blanket by hood latch helps when you need to lean deep or kneel on that area. I'd need a bigger (longer) garage and a place to rent a hoist/stand to consider pulling engine though.

Your still a rock star in my opinion. LOL.

 

[Alexotronic]

Reassembly Day 1 - Dropped the head off at the machine shop Monday. Just picked it up today (Friday) There was warping between the cylinders. - They said the camshaft bearings were not straight and they would need to straighten the head. (Bake it in an oven + squeeze it) - Paid 300$ for Straightening + Lapping the Valves + Surfacing the head. + Valve lifter service.

I should have just disconnected the exhaust to begin with. It's just 2 bolts in that black bracket (the 3rd bolt in that bracket overlaps one of the exhaust bolts) You don't need to take it all the way out - easy to drop head straight down and not worry about screwing up the new gasket while trying to navigate exhaust bolts. A bit difficult to get the exhaust back in place once head is in though. - with the exhaust manifold seated, I had to pull down with all my weight on the section of exhaust to get the connector bolts on the rear of that segment to clear.

Now, to follow the notes I took when removing everything in reverse order...

Page 1

Page 2

 

[Roader]

They said the camshaft bearings were not straight and they would need to straighten the block.

The block?

 

[Alexotronic]

The block?

Ehhh... the block of aluminum that was formed into a cylinder head (Typo fixed)

 

[Alexotronic]

Custom tools for pressing cam seal + resetting tensioner

 

[Alexotronic]

The worst thing that happened:

I was replacing the PCV valve, intent on burying the threads the same depth as the valve that came out. Heard a pop as I was nearing the bottom. (Maybe caused by the extra sealant that came on the new valves threads) -Coated it with same gray RTV i used on the valve cover gaskets, It's visible enough to keep an eye on it for oil leaks. 15$ for a new valve cover at junkyard if I need to replace it. Featured in background - Zipties as insurance since the little tabs on spark plug coils broke when removing.

 

[maller01]

That crack doesn’t look good…

 

[Alexotronic]

I read that the valve cover is only under about 1-5 PSI (Maybe even negative pressure/vacuum) So I feel good about the RTV/Gasket Maker. It's the same stuff you use in the crevices where the valve cover gasket sits.

 

[Roader]

15$ for a new valve cover at junkyard if I need to replace it.

If it were me I'd get that junkyard VC. All that work, I think you'll be P.O.'d if that crack seeps due to different heat expansion rates between the valve and VC.