On August 2, 2016 Toyota released Rev 1 of this TSB which extended the 'fix' thru the 2016 models. The full parts list is included here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/dp1lab3u032ga66/T-SB-0045-14_Front_Disk_Vibration.pdf

Only once have I experienced brake pulsation, and that was when criss-crossing Skyline Drive in Virginia near Luray Caverns earlier this Spring. Fortunately they recovered after cooling, but it was a heads-up that there is a sensitivity.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Mine vibrates and pulsates during heavy braking. Hopefully my rotor is not warp.

 

Got my car into the stealership this morning and they replacements per the TSB.
Thanks for the heads up I'm 200miles away from out of warranty.


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Looking at the video, it can be easily done at home with the van on ramps using a Dremel.

During our Spring break travel earlier in the year, I experienced this multiple times and ended up ordering a new set of pads/rotors. Since haven't had this happen in city driving so far I have deferred replacing these but will trim the air dam when I work on the brakes.

 

I think the part numbers are different on these updates pads and rotors. I wonder does this mean they will discontinued the old parts/numbers


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Wish I had seen this earlier. Brakes were pulsing like mad on vacation in Colorado and Utah. I assumed it was just rotors/brakes since I had bought the van used and haven't checked the brakes. We got back with about 300 miles left on the 36k warranty and have since gone over before I saw this thread.

 

I had it repeat two weeks ago during some 'spirited' driving in the hills of CT/MA, so decided to ask about it when the van went in for the radio head replacement and side mirror work (other warranty issues...).

Sure enough my service guy was aware of the issue, asked the right questions and took some notes. He seemed pretty sure he'd be able to get me a set of new pads. Well, unfortunately no. And I understand. While I do have a Platinum warranty which will normally superseded the 3/36 terms of most TSB's, asking for new pads to replace the originals at 47,000 miles is probably just asking too much! I laughed and thanked him for trying.

I'll cut out the air dams to increase cooling, and order the updated pad kit in about 5-8k miles when these wear down a little bit more.

 

My 15 at 28k miles vibrated. Took it in. They confirmed saw the tsb. And new pads being ordered and a whole new brake job up front tomorrow. My current pads are at 4mm so this worked out well.

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The pdf for the TSB is here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10084304-5448.pdf Looks like I am going back to the dealer this week and show it to them. I have complained about the brakes on the 25K and the 30K (last week) checkups and neither time did they bring this up.

 

1. What exactly is happening when one feels the vibrations?

2. Is there already and/or potential loss and how much was and/or will be the loss to braking performance, steering control, ABS performance, etc.?

3. What's the cause of this (i.e. brakes not cooling enough ergo the cutout of the "Front Wheel Opening Extension Pad" in the TSB)? How does it cause it?

4. What's the cost and/or hours when not under warranty? Mine is 7+ years ~97 k mi. when I noticed in moderate to heavy braking on the highway ~90+ deg.

Thanks!

 

I don't think the TSB will have any marginal difference in brake life (but it should provide a little more airflow). The TSB has a very long way of performing the procedure. You don't even need to put your car on ramps. I performed with a box razor. Just cut the section, and then cut the plastic around the screw and remove the loose piece. Then just tighten the screw and done. Total of 5 min tops.

Like others on the forum, I just installed the Stoptech Stage 3 Rotors and Pads. I have used these in the past on my autocross cars, and they do a very good job on the van. It will be seen if they last beyond the 30k as I only have 5k so far, but the performance is far superior than the OEM garbage that Toyota uses. One note, is the brake feel is much more linear, meaning before a light press would engage the pads almost a little too much, but now as you progressively press the braking force goes up very smoothly and much easier to control.

https://www.buybrakes.com/product/5...-stage-3-performance-vehicle-brake-kit-combo-slotted-rotorsmatched-premium-pads

 

@elbenson: Thanks for the reply and the "Stoptech Stage 3 Rotors and Pads" suggestion and purchase Link!

1. I presume I would only need to replace the front (vs. rear also) "Rotors and Pads" since the vibrations feel like they're only coming from the front?

2. I agree that it doesn't sound (at least to a non-mechanic like me) that just providing better airflow would prevent or even just reduce the "vibrations". However, it sounds like you were only referring to the effectiveness of step 2 of the TSB. What about step 3 where you're supposed to 3.a. "Measure the runout of the hub and rotor assembly at the outermost point of rotor surface and record the runout measurement.", 3.b. "Repeat step B at each lug position." and 3.c. (I presume ?make sure that the "Rotor position" is adjusted if necessary such that it's position will be...?) "the lowest runout measurement obtained. Max Runout Allowed: 0.05 mm (0.00197 in.)" and step 4 where you're supposed to "Replace the original brake pads with newly developed brake pads and Shim Kit." the pads part you did (with "Stoptech Stage 3 Rotors and Pads" which you claim to be better than (I presume) even the "newly developed brake pads" specified), but it didn't sound like you did anything equivalent to the "Shim Kit" part?

3. So, do you know what's happening when the vibrations occur? Is it causing damage to my brakes (and/or other components) and/or significantly reducing braking / handling performance?

Thanks!

 

I started having the vibration around 20k miles. My past experiences tell me that this usually happens after brakes overheat, and the pads leave deposits on the rotors. Took it in under warranty at 25k miles, they said they looked and didn't find anything wrong. No acknowledgement of a TSB. Drove the car another 5k miles, at this point it took a lot of brake pressure to stop the car at all, the pads were getting pretty badly glazed from all the heat. Around 37k miles, now out of warranty, the car started pulling badly to the right under hard braking, and you had to push the pedal halfway to the floor before you got any brake engagement at all.

I looked here and found the TSB. Took it back to the dealer with a copy of the TSB, explained that they ignored it when I brought it under warranty. They looked at it again, found that the passenger side slider pin had seized in the caliper bracket. Now the pads and rotors were also trashed. Their view was that this wasn't the issue that the TSB covered, and they wanted $$$ to fix the situation. Apparently they're smarter than Toyota's own engineers. My view was that the ONLY reason caliper pins seize in new cars is overheating of the calipers, which is exactly what the TSB was about.

After a few choice words with the service manager, I took my van back. I've done many brake jobs and wanted to fix it myself. The slider pin was indeed seized in the caliper bracket, no amount of heat, impact or swearing would break it loose. I needed to buy a new OE caliper bracket and slider pins. I did the air dam mod in the TSB, which took all of 10 minutes. I used new Centric rotors and Hawk HPS pads, which I've used on my Miata with good results for autocross and light track duty, so I know that they hold up to heat well.

Brakes are better than new now. No more overheating, great feel and modulation.

TLDR version: The Sienna brake setup has a design flaw related to overheating that their engineers have acknowledged. In addition to killing pads and rotors, the heat can also cause slider pins to bind which I don't think has been discussed here yet. Car dealers really suck. Eff Marietta Toyota and the horse they rode in on, I'll never set foot in that dealership again. If you know how to do a brake job, do the very easy TSB fix and repair the front brakes with good quality parts and don't worry about it any more.

 

@Schroedinger:

1. Re. the pads deposits on the rotors and the slider pin seizing in the caliper bracket from the overheating: a) Yikes! Ok, that makes me inclined to get this taken care of sooner rather than later. b) Ah, now that explains why step 2 of the TSB is just to cut a hole in the "front extension pads" in the front wheel wells, which presumably just helps to reduce potential heat build-up which to a lay person would not seem to cause heavy vibrations. I guess the step 4 ("Replace the original brake pads with newly developed brake pads and Shim Kit.") is just to *recover* from damage already done by the overheating, *not* necessarily to *prevent* future damage.

2. Sorry to hear about your issues with Marietta Toyota. Give'em hell if you haven't already! Having used to work at a Toyota dealership, I know they are absolutely paranoid about bad Toyota manufacturer's survey results. There's a good chance you'll get one after each dealership service visit. Just one bad result (i.e. 0's) can cost a bunch of them a lot of bonuses (because they're based on survey result averages *relative* to other dealers' vs. a fixed #). They'll go as far as the manufacturer will allow to imply they you need to not only fill out every survey (to reduce the impact of bad ones) and but also fill them out with nothing less than "Excellent". Also, calling the toll-free # listed in the Warranty Booklet hurts them too. I called once just cuz I had a question about my personal Toyota, and got grief from our C.S. mgr. for it. Post a bad review on Yelp! and any other site you can find. Gripe to Toyota corporate about it. Gripe to NHTSA about it. We need a #MeToo movement for manufacturers / dealers who won't own up to their defects. This should probably've been a Recall not just a TSB.

 

I got the TSB done last year and I start feeling the same issue again.

Anyone got it done and having the same issue?


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So I went to the stealership and tell them about my issue and they told me they would not warranty it, even though I am both under 1 year and 12k Miles. They said I abused my van cause the rotor to warp. To me that’s way too soon to go. It’s either bad workmanship or bad parts.

I will get my own parts and install it myself.
Do I use the old brake pad number (04465-0E010) or new pad number (04465-45040) I would assume the new pad since it’s redesigned per Toyota.

I contacted a different dealership talk to their parts department, gave them my vin # and told them about the new brake pad number.
They said the new brake pad number doesn’t associate with my vin # and recommend me to use the old part number.(maybe their system is not updated)

Any members here work at Toyota able to help?





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I just saw this thread and went outside with a utility razor, layed in front of the vent and with steady firm pressure slowly cut out the section from the air dam on both sides. Took all of 10 minutes to cut it. I also switched to wagner ceramic pads (OBX). I havent changed the rotors yet, but if the brakes pulsate, I will go with an aftermarket brand like Wagner. I think the oem rotors are too thin. This would be a good time to upgrade to a better rotor. Slotted is okay, but the drilled rotors will reduce braking, heat up and fracture at the holes. A shattered/cracked rotor fails catastrophically.

When I changed the brake pads last week, the glide pins were certainly binding and the grease was like paste. I cleaned them, re-greased the pins and put it all back together again. The calipers were free floating again. But I will re-check the pins to see if the grease is still holding up in 10,000 miles. The last brake job was done at Toyota 20,000 miles ago. The pins should have been moving smoother than what I found.

The lower A arm almost needs an air deflector to force air into the wheels.

 

I would bring your Sienna to a different Toyota dealer if you can. Some dealers will cover something another will not sometimes. A new car warranty is good at any Toyota dealer.

 

My sienna is no longer new, it’s a 2015 with 48k miles. The warranty is only good for 1 year or 12k miles on the brake job. I don’t think I can bring it to another dealership for the warranty.


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I went with Hawk HPS pads. Cheaper, higher heat tolerance, fixed the issue. They are a little dustier though.

 

Out of curiousity, what changed with the newly-specified OEM pads? Are the new ones thicker, ventilated, simply renumbered to make somebody feel better about having changed something?

 

It can be all of the above. Who knows what toyota wants us to believe.

 

I ended up doing the TSB trimming myself and installed Akebono ProACT ceramic pads all around and STOPTECH Sport slotted rotors up front - Centric blanks in the rear. After a brake bleed I'm extremely happy with this setup. The pads do have less initial bite and that takes a while to get used to.

 

Here are the pictures of the new updated pad vs the old one

New

Old

Left is new and right is old

For some reason when I look at the new one it seems slightly thicker.




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Here are the pictures of the new updated pad vs the old one

New

View attachment 38455

Old
View attachment 38457

Left is new and right is old
View attachment 38459

For some reason when I look at the new one it seems slightly thicker.

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What's interesting from these pictures is that the Toyota pads are made by ADIVCS. Google "ADVICS" and you find out it's part of the AISIN Group. Know I know to buy ADVICS brake parts! Just like Denso and AISIN parts, way cheaper than Toyota OEM. I learned something new today.

 

I just experienced this at 24K miles. We were coming down a 14% decline going at 75 mph, I started breaking and the whole van was shaking and pulsating. I thought I was doing something wrong because I haven't experienced this pulsation before. Unfortunately it's pass warranty, has anyone priced this out to get this done?

 

"So I went to the stealership and tell them about my issue and they told me they would not warranty it, even though I am both under 1 year and 12k Miles. They said I abused my van cause the rotor to warp. "

You must be pretty even-keeled, SiennaRookie. If a dealer said that to me (the rotors warped because I abused the car) they'd be picking up pieces for two days, and then they'd have to repaint the room for all the scorch marks. Unbelievable.

2011 LE, 3.5L 2WD, and way, WAY out of warranty. I have replaced rotors many times, which I had marked up to a heavy car and the mountainous terrain, but now I know the rest of the story- thanks all. Will be doing the air dam mod ASAP...

Just received the RockAuto PowerStop ceramic pads and rotors today (for all four corners). Wish I'd seen the ADVICS pic a couple days ago :-(. I'm hung up tonight by a badly mauled slide pin that must be replaced- another story, but dealers do NOT have a lock on sorry mechanics.
When I get some results I'll share. Thanks again, all.

 

I have replaced all (OEM parts) my rotors and brake pads over the weekend, it feels like new again also bleed my brake while I was at it.

The stealership definitely had poor craftsmanship on the TSB I did last year.
Out of the 4 sliding pins on the front only 1 of them look like it was lubed, rest seems dry. On my driver side the two 14mm bolts on the brake bracket connecting to the sliding pin was way over torqued. It feels more torqued compared to the bigger 17mm that take out the bracket.

My rear brake pad was almost completely out and not evenly wear. This is original never change before I’m at 50k miles now


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I didn't see this TSB until after my 2013 Sienna XLE had exceeded the mileage and duration to get the fix. I did the cut out modification myself, but it did nothing. The brakes would only pulsate while going down long descents, with light touches of the pedal to control speed. A harder depression would make it go away eventually, but you'd have to live through the strong pulsation at the steering wheel first. I replaced pads and rotors all the way around, and everything works great now.
A couple months after replacement, you can now hear this faint clicking sound from the right rear wheel. Just had it in the shop today and they could not find the source at all. Since the wife drives the van most of the time, I will get to hear about the clicking until I take the wheel off and have a look myself. Stuff like this makes me miss the simplicity of my WRX.