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Thank you all for the excellent fixes - and especially for the video on how to get into the shifter area. Note - one other issue that can cause this same problem is if the bushing between the shifter cable and shifter falls apart.... (This is what happened to me.) Toyota does not sell the bushing by itself - only with the entire cable. Fortunately there is a company that makes replacement bushings.... "BushingFix.com" (or Ascension Engineering) out of someplace in Florida. For the 2005 Sienna this is the part you need.


They also have a Youtube video on replacing it...


When I typed this - it cost $29.99 (US). (An amazing amount for a little piece of plastic... but then the cable was $250 at my local dealer...
 

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excellent thread... i followed the pdfs and youtube
replaced the entire shifter unit myself - my son works for Toyota so got a new unit for $290
didn't want to hack it with a metal tube (who knows how long that will last) or get used ebay units that are 10 years old

terrible design using this plastic tube
Thanks everyone!
 

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2006 LE 163k miles . I'm thinking of doing the same. Austin Toyota has it for that price also ($290), give or take. I have not taken apart anything yet even though I suspect its the cable bushing that is bad. So today I backed out of my driveway shifted into drive and the transmission was stuck in reverse. I was able to move the lever to all positions and shifted to park and turned off the engine. Well I should not have done that as the car was still engaged in reverse and subsequent start attempts were futile , as the transmission was still in reverse. Nevertheless I was able with the help of my brother to push it back unto my driveway. While applying brakes (very hard) I was able to turn the ignition on and move the lever out of park indicating that the lock solenoid is working. I will soon report back with my findings.
Cheers
 

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What if the plastic tube seems ok? As a preventative measure is there enough space there to put a piece of metal tubing around (outside, thus enclosing it) that cylinder? I think this would certainly add strength to that area that tends to weaken with time. Comments?
 

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Just did this today. Actually, I tried this a year ago, due to the hard selector 4 back to Drive, but when I pulled it all apart, it was fine. Lubed everything and put back together, and it worked (albeit stiffly still) for a year. Recently, when shifting 4 to D, I had to really hit it to get back to D and felt and heard it break. We were an hour into a 6 hour trip, so I was careful with the shifter flopping around and made the trip.
This went quickly today, having experience pulling the shifter. The tube fit perfectly, but the bullet was still moving hard from 4 to D, so I ground 1/16 inch off the spring and that did the trick. Moving the selector is smooth and holds each gear well. I'm convinced this is a permanent repair.
Thanks for the write up!
As a preventative measure , providing space allows I would think encasing that part of the tube/cylinder with a piece of metal tubing would strengthen that area.
Comments?
 

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Paul R, it sounds like your issue is not the one in this thread, this one is for the loose shifter meaning having play back and forth. Your issue is the rod end bushing, there is a thread on here for that, I have used that thread and corrected the same problem except mine was stuck in drive when the rod end bushing broke. Here is the website for a company in FL that makes the bushing replacement kit and it is very easy to do, I hope this helps. https://www.bushingfix.com/order-now/
 

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So today , in preparation for the new bushing to arrive, I took apart various panels to access the throttle assembly. Thanks to rj it is indeed the bushing that is shot! I did a visual inspection of the "bullet" cylinder and it looks fine at this time. Thanks to 05 siennadriver and spacecoast123 for their posts as well. Kudos!!
 

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So It's all done now, replaced the bushing. I find ridiculous that so many panels had to be removed to access that area. Nevertheless it wasn't a difficult job after all. And as far as a preventative measure to strengthen the tube in which the "bullet" , I think not. Actually I have my eyes on a shift assembly that I saw in a pick and pull , if the price is right I might get it , work on it and have it for a rainy day.
 

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Thank you also for saving me all the money saved today.
Went as described. spot on the problem. Shift was stiff when Back from 4 to Drive. then all sudden all broken and wobbly loose shifter after that.
A good link to emphasis on this description by a video is found here

also for the metal guide tube use following

















IT is from KSmetal
http://www.ksmetals.com/RetailLocations.html

I had issue when inserting the Tube as it was a tight fit. my problem i wanted to ensure i drilled far enough and tube went sufficiently deep inside to ensure where to cut. once fully in it did not come out again ... so i had to cut in with tube in position . Not perfect . but it still worked fine afterwards.

when all full in position shifter was perfect smooth better than original except for "4" back to "d"rive. tightness that created probably the plastic breakage initially. so what i did is with semi rouded files to very slightly easy the little plastic edge pyramid on the reverse cover, where the bullet would ride. Just a little filing to make it easier again.

Now all back to good for another 100k i hope.

Thanks again for all the great info.
rgds
 

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Oh man, that might be tough, mmm , maybe the dealer? You might try a pick and pull , used part outfit. You can do an inventory check at LKQ if you are close to one and perhaps get an entire throttle assembly for cheap and which runs about $300 at the dealers.Good luck.
 

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I couldn't find the SS version of the tube locally and bought the brass one for $4. The OD is 3/8 and fit well, but the ID is larger due to the thinner tubing. The bullet floats around too much to shift smoothly.

The K&S SS tube part number must have changed from 7119 to 87119... about $8 on Amazon.
- "K & S PRECISION METALS 87119 3/8x12 SS Tube"

Thanks to the original poster for the diagnosis and write-up and also to the guy who put together the YouTube video.
 

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yep, great thread with lots of good advice and savings !! My issue is the bushing and I ordered one on amazon for $30 free one-day ship if you have prime. Alot of money for a small plastic part.
FYI, the part for the Sienna is BP1KIT but Amazon doesn't sell it. Instead search for the CH1KIT that is the same but the instructions are for another vehicle. I talked to Carroll at bushingfix.com, they happen to be an hour away from me and she was very helpful by giving me transmission repair places that sell their products. Being unlucky with local stock and didn't want to drive 2.5 hours, she gave me the CH1 reference to look for on AMZ, so she clearly wanted to save me a trip, or didn't want to have anyone come to her house today... in any case cheaper than a new cable assembly !
Ultimately, a small hole with a cotter pin, a push pin or any other method to hold the eyebolt in place works just fine without having to replace the bushing; it's up to you.
 

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This just happened to me yesterday...and I was able to fix the problem for under $10.

I was driving and I felt some resistance when moving the lever to the right. I gave it a little tap and heard something break. Pulled over and after moving the selector through the gears (while stopped), I heard a piece fall. I no longer had the ability to shift into park.

View attachment 3598

Did some research and found this thread. I looked at the 2 PDF attachments and decided to remove the shifter. I followed steps 16-32 to remove the center console/dashboard. I didn't completely remove the console...just moved it enough to get to the shifter assembly. I followed the instructions to remove the shifter.

You need to take the shifter apart by removing 3 friction clips. Once these parts have been removed, the pins/shafts can be removed. The modification has to be done to the plastic base of the actual shifter.

View attachment 3599

There is a metal piece that's shaped like a bullet and it rides inside a spring loaded barrel. The barrel is part of the shifter assembly and is made of plastic. Over time, the plastic weakens and eventually breaks. The only way to fix this is to insert a metal tube inside the barrel...making it much stronger. I tried using glue and tie straps...and it broke right away.

I went to the hardware store and bought a stainless steel tube that was in the K&S rack. This was part 7119 and it’s a 3/8 inch tube that was about 12 inches long. It’s 22 GA...so it’s pretty thick and sells for $8.99. The “bullet” fits with the correct amount of clearance. You’ll only need about 2 inches. Bring the bullet with you so you can test fit the tube to make sure that you're getting the correct one.

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Disassemble the shifter mechanism
2. Remove the Bullet and Spring front the plastic barrel
3. Inset a screw driver in the barrel to determine the depth (ex. 2 inches)
4. Cut the appropriate length (ex. 2 inches) of the stainless steel tube and remove any excess material.
5. Use tape on the drill bit so to indicate the 2 inches (2 inches is used for this example).
6. Drill the plastic barrel using a 3/8 inch drill bit. They to keep it straight because the metal sleeve will be inserted in the new hole. Do not pass the tape!!!
7. Clean away any excess plastic
8. Insert the metal sleeve inside the plastic barrel till it can’t go any further. The metal sleeve should be about as long as the original plastic barrel.

View attachment 3600

9. Use grease to lube the spring and inset it into the barrel
10. Use grease to lube the bullet and insert it into the barrel so that the round end is sticking out of the top of the barrel.

View attachment 3601

11. Make sure that the bullet moves freely.
12. Carefully reassemble following the steps in reverse order.
13. Insert the pins but do not press in the clips.
14. Press the bypass button and move the shifter through the gears. If everything was done correctly, it should feel like new :)
15. After verifying that everything is working, the 3 clips can be installed.
16. Install the rebuilt shifter in the van.

Hope this helps. the shifter fells really smooth and it cost $9 vs the possible $600 from the dealership.

Goodluck!!!!

Regards,
05SiennaDriver
Reviving this post from 2013, I just had this issue with my 2005 Sienna.
I followed the directions, which were very clear, and now my shifter doesn't flop from P outwards as it did before.
However, it still flops around between 4 and D.
I got the exact K&S part, drilled the plastic, inserted the sleeve and the spring/bullet into it- everything fit great but only solved one of the problems.
Has anyone else come across this issue?
 
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