I dont think the bearing is pressed into the housing, but it does rust which makes removal difficult.

As an added bonus, one of the carrier housing bolts is inaccessible when the axle is in place, so the axle and housing can't be removed as an assembly.

I would recommend hitting the bearing with penatrant ahead of time. Is the carrier bearing is still stuck at removal, be prepared to cut the axle (torch or grinder) between the transmission and bearing, and using a sledgehammer to drive out the remaining axle.

 

My experience is for a 2004 Sienna (3.3L motor, I think yours is 3.5L motor).

On my van, the support bearing was not pressed into the bracket but it may as well have been. There is a Clip (like a snap-ring) that is intended to retain the bearing into the bracket. With it removed, the bearing should just slide out (once the outer CV is free of the hub). But mine was frozen solid together, and this was a very frustrating job for me to do the first time. I did a lot of pounding on it (on car) and snuck a wrench behind it to remove the bracket bolts but there is no way to remove it intact that way. At the time, I web-searched and determined there are two best plans of attack if it is frozen:

1) If the axle is being replaced because of outer CV joint, then do not even try to replace the whole axle; buy a toyota axle, disassemble at the inner joint and dissasemble the vehicle at the inner joint. Reassemble on-vehicle to have a new outer joint on the original axle. I read that this is what Toyota mechanics do to save time.

I had an aftermarket axle and it was different from Toyota's so needed to remove the whole thing, so:

2) Use a reciprocating saw (such as Sawzall) to cut the old axle between the trans and the bracket. Remove the mounting bolts of the bracket and it will come out.

Once out, I had to heat the bracket with a torch, and really hammer on the axle shaft (conveniently cut off close to the bearing) with a sledgehammer to get it apart. I greased the bracket before re-assembling. A couple years later, I had to again remove the shaft to replace a transmission seal and it came apart without problem.

 

Just to add: I was able to get all the bracket bolts out with an open ended wrench, I may have had to grind the wrench to make it thinner. Even with the bolts out, you cannot get it out because there are some assembly pins that prevent the bracket from sliding toward the outside of the car. The key is to cut the axle like happycamper suggests. If you can get the bolts out then it will come out without needing to use the hammer when on the car.

 

Thank you for the responses. I had a hunch it wasn't pressed in since there is one bolt on the support bracket that is almost impossible to get to without removing the axle. I usually go to junkyard and "practice" on a car before I do work on mine that I have not done before. The Sienna I worked on at junkyard had the axle in the bearing and it was completely seized together. Used almost a whole can of PB blaster and a 5 lb hammer and still couldn't get it out. Another question - I have read horror stories about aftermarket axles not quite fitting correctly. Have either of you used a refurbished axle? I read that Autozone's axle doesn't fit correctly and several of the axles on Rock Auto won't fit correctly.

 

The Carquest brand from Advancedauto works fine

 

On my 2004 FWD Seinna, I used NCV69608 from (at the time) Carquest. The part number is still at Advanced Auto and Amazon. It fit properly on the passenger side, and we have 3+ years and 60K miles of use so far.

If you use the method of cutting the old axle, you'd be best to get all the bolts out of the bracket using a ground down (skinny) wrench.

 

I replaced both axles bought from Advanced Auto. They are the Carquest brand and they fitted fine. Just be sure to remove them from their package at the store and make sure they are fine. I got a passenger side one which had a flange that was damaged. Just sayin

 

I'm in the midst of replacing both axles now. Hope to finish by this weekend. I'm using Autozone (Duralast) brand because I got them on sale. I'll let you know if there's any problems, but just eyeballing them they look like they'll fit.

The PS axle is indeed a PIA to remove. I have a SoCal car, so no rust, but it was still impossible to remove the axle from the bracket. There's a good Youtube video on how to cut the axle and what blades to use. I went through 2 blades and had to have my wife hold the end of the axle with locking pliers to keep it from spinning. Hint: it's probably better to cut the outside of the axle first and then the inside, to keep it from spinning. The outside is also solid and therefore harder to cut, so I'd probably tackle it first anyway if I did it again.

I plan to coat the inside of the bracket, and perhaps the outside of the bearing, with high-temp anti seize. With any luck, that'll keep them from sticking together again.

 

I recently replaced my PS drive axle, and had no trouble with it at all! After all the horror stories on the forum, I expected the worst, but after disconnecting the hub, retaining clip, and lock bolt, the axle pulled right out of the transmission and through the support bracket. No one has mentioned that locking bolt, the one on the bottom of the support bracket, but you did remove it, right?


I got my replacement axles (did both sides) from Auto Zone, Duralast brand, and they fit perfectly.


I guess I got lucky?

 

Yeah, you got lucky. Maybe the axle you're replacing doesn't have 140,000 miles on it like mine does. I got the PS side in this morning. Both Duralast axles fit fine. Of course, I have no idea how well they'll last. In hindsight I wish I had replaced the axle shaft seals while I had everything apart. I have a feeling I'll be pulling the axles to replace the seals within the next 50k.

One thing worth noting on the bracket: I believe there is a small rubber or plastic "plug" at the end of the lock bolt that sits between the bolt and the bearing. I must have lost mine while cleaning up the bracket. I fabricated a new one out of some plastic sheet I had lying around. Without that plug the bolt doesn't quite reach the bearing.

 

Yeah , I should have replaced the seal when I did mine also...

 

My Camry has the same axle setup. I spray penetrating oil on it after every oil change. Hoping this will make it easier if it needs to be replaced.

 

Just did this with a carbide reciprocating saw blade. Bought the van with 146K and noticed the inboard passenger CV clamp was missing and grease was splattering out. Shoved some grease in and and tie-wrapped the boot back on but on the last long trip I noticed a shuddering/vibration in the steering wheel when accelerating from 40–70mph. The guy who made youtube video #pb67N-asQUs that explains how/where to cut the axle shaft replaced his axle for the same reason. Figure about four hours on the ground, without a lift, although my van is a CO/NM car with little rust. The vibration is now gone. Some notes:

• Need a 30mm, 12pt deep socket to get the axle nut off. The nut stake is impossible to remove so I just used my HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and wimpy, 85psi compressor to get it off.
• The axle has to be cut on both sides. There isn't enough play in the axle shaft to lift the carrier bracket away from the locating pins otherwise.
• Once the bracket was off and in a vice, took about five whacks with a 5lb sledge to get the axle/bearing out of the bracket. Cleaned the bracket ID with a Dremel and emery paper drum. Slathered anti-seize on the carrier ID in case the axle has to come out again.
• Bought the new Carquest axle from Advance with 20% off Labor Day promo code. I hope it lasts.
• The new axle has a 6pt, 32mm axle nut. Autozone loaner axle socket set included both the 30mm and 32mm sizes.
• That plastic tit at the end of the carrier bolt is about 4mm or 3/16" thick.

 

Very nice write-up and pics. Using your advice plus others posts on this topic. My 07 Sienna CE (353K miles) recently started front end shakng on acceleration starting around 45 mph. Mech replaced the ds side cv axle cause found play...no joy! Now mechanic will R&R passenger side cv axle. Using Advanced Auto Carquest parts cause of available online discounts. I'll give a report on completion of job.

 

Can you clarify the cut locations? When I did it, I made one cut, between the transmission and the bracket. The other outer end of the shaft was free from the hub.
Was the second cut to give better access to the bracket mounting bolts?

 

Yes, the first cut was get the inner CV joint (along with the rest of the outer axle) out of the way of that third carrier bearing bolt, one of three that attaches the carrier bracket to the block. And the second cut was to move the carrier bracket away from the locating pins.

Maybe that outboard carrier bolt can be removed w/o cutting the axle next to the inboard CV joint but there's very little room to do so. That Diablo blade does make fast work of cutting the axle shafts. The first cut (right next to the inboard CV joint) took about ten minutes, rotating the shaft four or five times. The second cut was easier because there's more room and the shaft isn't solid; figure five minutes. Now this was on jackstands...it would be twice as fast using a lift.

Here's Joshua Craig's excellent vid, although his 45 second cutting time is optimistic:

 

I have done pretty much everything you guy has described, the latest and most efficient way I have done is used a bigger 10lb otc slide Hammer, along with the otc hex extension rod, a few slide and both axle comes come out with out any difficulty, don't even have to go under the vehicle, sometime it does take the right tool to get the job done right

 

How do you attach the slide hammer to the axle? Did you use this and the extension?

Mine are still good but I like the idea of spraying the carrier often to make it easier in the future and to keep it from rusting further. Then using a 10lb slide hammer to easily remove it. Also remember to replace the axle seals.

 

Once installed, make sure the CV Axle's dust shield is adjusted properly.
https://www.siennachat.com/forum/66...m/forum/66-problems-maintenance-repair-gen-2/43754-bad-bearings.html#post311521

 

there is a cv joint puller, and then slide hammer, some sold as each separately, some sold as bundle or combo, for passenger side cv axle, place the puller between carrier bracket and inner joint. for driver side cv axle, just place the puller between transmission output shaft and inner cv joint.

10lb otc slide hammer, part number 7703, and an otc hex extension rod part number 7508, my otc are in black color.
i also have the smaller 5 lb oem from autozone, that alone may or may not able to get the job done, depend on how stubborn the axle is.

i found with the otc hex extension rod, it greatly enhanced the functionality of the slide hammer because with the original slide hammer arm alone, the length will be reaching about the wheel spindle area, therefore, unless you take off the spindle and strut, rotor and calipers, all those will be obstructing the path,
once i attached the the otc extension rod, it has provided extra length so i can slide freely outside of the vehicle, and the 10 lb hammer provided more sliding power.

 

I guess I got lucky. Being in South Fl. might have helped since no salt and such on our roads. No winters! A few taps on the squared part of the hub was all it took to remove the axle out of the carrier housing.

 

350K, 1st replacement. Got my ps cv axle r&r'd. Carquest, Advance Auto. Support bracket froze, but mech knew what to do. Driving really smoth again!

 

Glad it worked out for you. What year is your Sienna? I used Carquest also from advance A, I believe I have over 25k on mine so far, done 3 yrs ago. I see your username..I take it 07
cheers

 

2007 Sienna CE

 

Just want to throw an idea out there in the hope it might help someone...

We might be facing this job, so I'm reading up and discovered what a bear the passenger axle support / carrier bearing to remove from the bracket.

Studying the photos it looks like there might be an easier way to remove the bearing from the bracket using wedges. It looks as if when the axle is turned so that two of the cv joint corner "points" lines up with the support bracket retaining clip flange (lip?), you could drive a pair of steel splitting wedges between them on both sides (180 degrees out). Using alternating hammer blows on the wedges might extract the bearing from the carrier.

 

Maybe. But you'd be wedging the CV joint against the bearing, which I think would be counterproductive. It might get that bearing out an eight of an inch or so, which would allow it to be removed the rest of the way by just yanking on the shaft.

 

The tool that is a life saver for this job is an air hammer. An air hammer will break that bond between the CV axle and the bracket with no problem. Took me replacing two of those bastards to figure that one out. I took my grider to both of them to cut the axle, then on the second I figured out the air hammer to release the bracket once I had the axle out.

 

Maybe on a sun-belt Sienna. My Southern New England van got every possible approach, including the air hammer, and the only thing that actually worked was for me to surrender my pride, take it to a shop and have them torch the bracket into pieces to get the half-shaft out, followed by a new bracket from Toyota.

 

Can anyone provide the torque specs for the three bolts that hold the cv axle support bracket onto the engine block? [2005 Sienna FWD] Thank you...

 

I can't find it in the manual. Maybe you can although cast iron-to-cast iron, it's not critical. 40 lbs/ft ought to suffice. I just cranked it down with a 1/2" ratchet.

 

The CV Axle Shaft Carrier Bearing Bracket [part 43457-08010] is cast iron, but the 2005 Sienna has the 3MZ-FE with an aluminum block, not cast iron, so Cast Iron bolted to Aluminum. The best reference I have found was a Toyota Service Bulletin (TSB) [T-SB-0019-20 - Page 6] for the 2019 RAV4 that specified 47 ft*lbf for the 3x bolts for the 'Drive Shaft Bearing Bracket'. The 2019 RAV4 engine is A25A-FKS, that also has an aluminum block.

The 3MZ-FE is a closed-deck design (no open space between the bores), while the A25A-FKS is an open-deck, so my assumption is that if 47 ft*lbf is good for the open-deck, then the close-deck block should have less issue with the torque.

 

Thanks! for this writeup and welcome to the forum