The mechanical aspects don't seem that bad to me. Most of the bearing brackets are bolt-on. There is an extensive set of threads about working with the cables. Hopefully the door has a working set.

The only thing I don't remember seeing anyone discuss is the electrical umbilicus. You might want to research that a bit before taking this on. Pull the inside door card and see if there are easy to get at disconnects or an opportunity to splice.

 

I had to do this when my wife cut a turn into a gas station car wash a little too shallow and then didn't follow the adage, "Stop when it sounds expensive!" I found the same color off an '05 at a nearby junkyard that was graded a 'B.' The panel had a couple tiny nicks in the paint and a very faint scuff. The main problem was that the cable was rusty and cracked on the bring of breakage (which it did a few weeks later). The biggest problem was getting the whole door lifed and held in proper alignment of bolt holes to start the threads. A helper will definitely make the job easier. The only problem was that the wire plug for the window switch from the '05 door was different than the window switch for my '06. I had to de-pin the door-side wire block and re-pin it into the wire block from my original door.

 

" I had to do this when my wife cut a turn into a gas station car wash a little too shallow and then didn't follow the adage, "Stop when it sounds expensive!" "
So i did the same in a parking lot and caved in the sliding door . I figured I would take off the inside panel and dent it back to normal . Nope the inside is covered and not accessible unless you take it apart, The sliding door cables fell out when the panel came out but the servo motors still work. I also discovered that the dent dislodged the 3/8" of bondo that covered a previous injury? So just how much weight is the sliding door and are yje years compatible or is it the wire harness that changed?

 

For a DIY, the door is HEAVY! More important, though, is that it's overlarge and awkward. I happen to have an infinite quantity of scrap wood that I used as support, shimming closer and closer until I lined up bolt holes perfectly. If you believe the documentation, the door should be 100% universal. As I discovered, it was not. Something must be a slightly different P/N, but still functions exactly the same. Everything works perfectly, although, the new-to-me cable snapped about a month later and I never bothered to replace it with a new aftermarket version.