Clear the code and see how long before it recurs. Ideally it’s a one time hiccup. Does anything feel different?

If it needs a solenoid, consider replacing all solenoids for good measure. I say that without knowing what Toyota solenoids cost. At least replace all solenoid seals.

Could also be bad wiring or a bad TCM/PCM.

Sixto
‘04 LE FWD 230K miles

 

Nothing blatantly obviously nor did it make any unusual noises. I'll clear the codes and see if I notice anything on a short drive.
Thanks for the tip.

Jae

Clear the code and see how long before it recurs. Ideally it’s a one time hiccup. Does anything feel different?

If it needs a solenoid, consider replacing all solenoids for good measure. I say that without knowing what Toyota solenoids cost. At least replace all solenoid seals.

Could also be bad wiring or a bad TCM/PCM.

Sixto
‘04 LE FWD 230K miles

Nothing

 

An "it's not stupid if it works" suggestion is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight and make sure both battery and alternator are working fine according to the free parts store tests. Low electric power or fluctuating charging can cause sensors to throw random flaky codes. Before changing out solenoids, I'd probably also suggest doing a drain and fill. It shouldn't hurt, it may fix the issue and, even if it doesn't, it'll just give you slightly cleaner fluid to work with when you do replace a solenoid (if that's what the problem actually is).

 

This guy identifies the solenoids:

 

An "it's not stupid if it works" suggestion is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight and make sure both battery and alternator are working fine according to the free parts store tests. Low electric power or fluctuating charging can cause sensors to throw random flaky codes. Before changing out solenoids, I'd probably also suggest doing a drain and fill. It shouldn't hurt, it may fix the issue and, even if it doesn't, it'll just give you slightly cleaner fluid to work with when you do replace a solenoid (if that's what the problem actually is).

An "it's not stupid if it works" suggestion is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight and make sure both battery and alternator are working fine according to the free parts store tests. Low electric power or fluctuating charging can cause sensors to throw random flaky codes. Before changing out solenoids, I'd probably also suggest doing a drain and fill. It shouldn't hurt, it may fix the issue and, even if it doesn't, it'll just give you slightly cleaner fluid to work with when you do replace a solenoid (if that's what the problem actually is).

I

I've done drain and fills on the transmission since 60k. And then every 30k since then.
Thanks for the tips. I cleared the codes and it has not reappeared. Yet. Here's to hoping.

Jae

 

I had this same issue come up on my 2006 with an installed used transmission from a more northern state (this will be important later). I had my transmission shop replace the "D" solenoid as I thought this was the issue.....turns out that didn't solve it. After some research on my part, and more diagnosis by the shop, it was found that there was a broken pin in the connector that exits the top of the transmission and connects to the TCM. Once the shop replaced the wiring harness and connector in the transmission, the problem was solved. I had found in forums that this issue was common in Tacoma's and Highlander's I believe. Some had even said that upon inspection, they didn't see any broken pins, but electrically, the connection was broken due to corrosion, hence my earlier comment as mine is a southern vehicle.