[Stixoffire]

@dashan the drivers side is even easier to replace - After car is jacked and tire removed this is 15 minutes to remove and Replace the Whole AXLE. This is not a hard Job at all - it is SUPER EASY...

If it takes more time than that ......

 

[Stixoffire]

I saw this yutube.. Is it this easy.. What yr seinna is he working on.. Air hammer method??
https://youtu.be/ny7rTzww2sA

You don't need to take the Tie Rod End bolt out or the Ball Joint Upper Bolt - Just take the two bolts holding the ball joint to the frame ... the axle will come out towards the front / bottom as you lift the HUB out and to the left (Rear) .. basically turning it to the right like a right hand turn..

Yes it is Easy .. and he makes it harder with that pry bar .. the slide hammer with the Fwd Adapter makes it easier , I also used the Axle Popper, Slid it up there between pillow block and axle housing tapped it in and it just pryed it nicely when I pounded it in between the two .. this is super easy ..

 

[Stixoffire]

Using an Axle Popper takes about 5 minutes. The wedge of the popper going between the pillow block and the axle joint housing will force that thing out nicely - like having a press .. worked great for me.
I got to do mine twice because Auto-zone Axle would not allow me to put retaining ring back in 1/8 inch off. Ended up taking that one back and buying an Axle at NAPA..

 

[jerrys52]

Re-booting is always possible to do. But, the labor involved in getting the shaft out to do so is the same either way. At 200k, you have to ask yourself how much longer are those CV joints likely to go before they need replacement anyhow? What are your long term plans for keeping the van? The last boot kit I bought cost me $15, and a rebuilt shaft was like $60. Assuming the Sienna is true to this, is rebooting at 14 years old worth it?

I agree with fibber; at 200K, if the half shaft has not been replaced before, you definitely want to replace the half shaft; the CVJ won't last much longer; You are lucky that you got 200K out of a half shaft (presuming this is your first problem with it)

 

[jerrys52]

4 Hours and Cutting the Axle ? WHAT ? .. I just changed the passenger Axle on my 2006 and its about 30 minutes tops.
Cutting of the axle .. Seriously .. I am having one of those What kind of moments here ..this is some seriously wrong answer / advice.

I agree: I have never heard of anyone having to cut an axle to get it out; Mine came out easy

 

[jerrys52]

Figure four hours on the ground without a lift if you cut the shaft with a reciprocating saw/carbide blade. The Carquest new (not rebuilt) axle I put in my van last September is good so far. Not expensive @$83 plus Advance Auto typically has a 20% off deal going on.

four hours and cutting is bizarre; I did not have to cut anything and it took me about 30 minutes; I just followed what I saw in a youtube video

 

[qjohn]

I live in an area that uses a lot of road salt (Chicago) and mine was frozen in solid. I borrowed a slide hammer to try to pull it out, no way was that going to work. Had to resort to the cutting method. Once out, it took many full swings of the 3lb sledge to get the bearing out of the carrier. I used anti-seize when reassembling and it came right out a year later when I had to replace the leaky seal at the trans.

 

[josiegross]

I had to cut the axle which was a pain as well as I don't have a lift.

To me this is an example of what I see Toyota doing - they build a solid vehicle but not a serviceable one. They could have made the carrier a two piece design with a cap similar to a connecting rod connecting to the crankshaft, but this design is terrible.

good luck

 

[Roader]

Cutting the axle is often the only way to get the bearing out. If you can get it out without cutting the axle, more power to you. My car spent its life in dry Colorado and has no rust yet the bearing was practically welded into the carrier. It took a 5lb sledge to get it out once I had the carrier unbolted from the block and clamped in a vice.

 

[ryzenmaster]

CV joint is also only $40 on rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2004,sienna,3.3l+v6,1426913,drivetrain

 

[dashan]

I replaced my driver side axle inner joint boot today, using NAPA boot CVB 6862420.
I also bought an Amazon Driver side axle, but ended up not using it. I still prefer replacing the torn boot and keep the OEM factory CV Axle.

 

[honda coaster]

I just started this.. Got the shalf from Napa, new unit is made by CARDONE. And I am ready to kill the Toyota engineer who desigh this shit.. I did the pry bars, lube penetrate, slide pull with cv axle adapter, then the vise grip slide pull, and the air hammer drill, nothing.. Finally took off the half side by taking cv axle rubber boot band off..and tried all the previous pulls.. Still nothing. My car is 2005 LE 205k miles.
Gave up.. Try next day, going to try slide pull cv axle adapter, then vice grip again, then heat with torch, then last resort cut it off.. Get access to bearing bracket bolts, take bracket off with half axle from transmission,, should come off... Then press bearing out off bracket. Then reinstall with antiseize on bearing bracket..

I really think this was design to take axle off with the bearing bracket, but only thing is yu can't access inside bolts.. Shit. Then yu can press bearing out, in to bracket, reinstall on a bench.

I think next time,, just get half off and replace the boot, and put it back up.. Never try to take full unit out.. Leave the bearing half unit intact in transmission. This is Just too much headache.. Better off to farm this job out to shop.. Then again.. They pro will probably do easy way and do only half axle, boot change only and charge for full axle job.. Wish I had a shop lift, would be way easier.. I previously did drivers side, both lower control arms, hub bearings and they were not that bad like this passenger CV axle shit.
And normally I am not the type to give up easy..

All those yutube video of easy pull has got to be some tricks.. Mind yu, I am doing this on Jack's on floor.. Damn..

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[bronzemaxell]

I've done this multiple ways but all can be done, if you support the engine, remove the lower side engine mount, and bracket, that will give you more room, just enough to stick a 12 point 14mm wrench to loose one of the nearly impossible carrier bracket bolt. Please also note there is a little guide pin on carrier bracket, so you have to pry bracket out of the pin first, then slide sideway out.

Other method, get a bigger 10 lb slide hammer with extensions rod.

Use a 2" ball joint fork and jam it between the bracket and axle

Last resort cut axle

 

[qjohn]

The key is to cut the axle. Someone on here has said to make two cuts -- one close to the joint and one near the transmission.

Also, if you grind down a open-end (preferably cheap) wrench so it is thinner, then you can use it to get to those blocked nuts.

 

[honda coaster]

So got back on it next day.. Tried all previous stuff.. Even got torch gas heat.. Nothing.. Decided cutting.. Got my Bosch 12v with some blades, too weak and slow, got my Dewalt shorty saw 18v..got some saw blades, milwaukee, Dewalt, spyder German made, got some cuts but too slow and long.. Went to home depot, got the Diablo steel demon thick metal cutter blades.. Boom, done really fast.. I was too cheap not to try these blades first instead I tried what I had laying around.. Big mistake.

Cut near bearing, both sides of bearing adapter. Took bolts out easy, and shalf out of transmission came out easy.. Engine casing had 2 pins for bearing adapter as shown in pics below... Now to clean bearing adapter, out antiseize lube.. And hopefully get it done..
Pics below.. Everybody lives pics.

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See the 2 pins on engine casing for bearing adapter holes.

 

[honda coaster]

Well I finished it up. Installation was easy.. I cleaned up the bearing adapter inside of a rust with wire brush and emery cloth.. Then put antiseize on the adapter and the 3 bolts.so that next time removal will be easy, hopefully. Put in new seal, old seal still looked good after 200k miles. The Napa CV axle went in smooth no problems.. Button everything back up to factory torque specs. Drove 200 miles.. No problems. There is a small rubber plug at end of the bolt on bearing adapter.. Other threaded hole is empty, nothing in.. Why??
Thanks for all the help and this board for ideas..

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[jimkim]

I also bought the same Amazon axle, but ended up not going this route. I only replaced the outer segment of the axle shaft as shown the post #6 of this thread. I did so to avoid the heavy labor to remove the whole axle, and to keep the OEM axle.
Please let us know if the Amazon axle will hold up long term.

So far the passenger side axle from Amazon appears to be holding up. However the driver side I replaced about a year ago seems to be having problems. This is also from Amazon. Cardone select brand. Not 100% sure if it is an axle issue but pretty sure.
See issue below

Atf leaking 6 months after axle change

Hello. I have a 2008 sienna. I changed the driver side axle about 6 months ago. Recently I noticed a slow atf leak and a clunking noise when I reverse while turning the wheel. Went under the car to check and found atf all over the driver side. I suspect that the axle seal at the...

www.siennachat.com

 

[rogerdpack]

9: Start Pulling with the slide hammer - yes you are basically giving it a hammer pull. [It will take a few wacks as your bearing is probably seized in the Bearing Pillow Block]
You can use the Axle Popper sliding the angled popper in between the Axle and the pillow block - and pounding it in between the two the wedge shape will force the separation of the bearign and pillow block. I had a 20lb hammer and let the axle popper wedge action pry it out .. Worked like awesomeness ..

Thanks for the tips, I was able to get some of those rental tools, they helped.

@bronzemaxwell you can get the carrier bracket out with the axle still in it?

I attempted the axle popper method with the minivan on jack stands. The only angles I seemed to be able to find were from underneath where there wasn't a lot of clearance so I couldn't hit it with the hammer full strength. It didn't come out, probably because I couldn't hit it hard enough. Tips?

Also some tips for future adventurers down this route:

I wasn't able to get my axle nut off with just a breaker bar (mine was wimpy but it started bending), I had to kind of bend out the old section where it had been punched in to prevent it being able to turn.

If you get to the "cutting" if off method, the cut on the "outside" side of the bracket, be careful not to cut too close to the bracket, you might shave it a bit accidentally.

After removing the axle, and the 3 nuts on the carrier bracket, the carrier bracket doesn't just fall off, you have to kind of pry it off a couple of metal spikes it sits on.

Once free (after cutting) I was able to get the old axle out with a few whacks on the carrier bracket "on the ground" it inched right out.

When trying to put the new axle in, if it "doesn't enter all the way" into the carrier bracket (you can dry fit it before even putting them both back on), clean out the carrier bracket more. For me a small cordless drill wasn't enough I had to use a well powered drill and clean it out inside, to all the way shiny, then the new one fit in easy.

The initial bolt you take out of the carrier bracket (that has the rubber nub on it), the rubber nub isn't attached to the bolt at all it's just loose so save it away somewhere.

Good luck to followers!

 

[paul r]

the rubber nub isn't attached to the bolt at all it's just loose so save it away somewhere.

Actually it is attached when new. I know coz I bought one from the dealer when I did the pax side axle. Some folks are not aware of its existence as it is sometimes left in the hole as the bolt is removed. Sometimes it comes out and rolls away. Toyota part number....90119-10461..$5...torque 24 ft/lbs