[foobart]

Finished this yesterday. Few tips I want to add:

1) Soldering iron heating for taking off loctite screws is the BEST method. Hold the soldering iron on the tip of the screw (not the head) for say 3-5 minutes. Then turn the screw it comes out smooth as knife through butter. I was surprised at how easy it was, compared to all the horrors people are describing with dremels and what not. It's possible that lot of people don't have a soldering iron around, but maybe just get a cheap one for this, like :

Also, this was the most instructive video, covered all steps. I had it up and replayed as needed.

thank you Vinnie (wherever you are) for the effort.

 

[Mazdax605]

The digi-key 12V motor link doesn't seem to be working as it says the part number is invalid. Any chance someone knows the proper part number so I can order a couple of motors?

 

[sgs]

So out of the blue, our 06 Sienna LE's passenger side power door stopped opening/closing using either of the interior buttons. It pops and tries to open/close, but it acts like it's totally stuck.

BUT, when using the handles, both interior and exterior handles, the door powers open/closed flawlessly. Seems to only have the problem when using the switches.

Anyone else run into this?

Thanks!

I have the exact same problem! Manually the doors work fine. But, if automatic power is turned on, the buttons don't open or close the door. The doors will only slide open/close if the handle is held for 1-2 seconds.

Did you find a solution? Maybe a part number?
Thanks!

 

[teresatoth]

I have a 2011 Toyota Sienna and my overhead sliding door buttons stopped working some years ago. Yesterday I had the car into dealer for some unrelated recall work and asked for estimate to fix those overhead door buttons. They came back with "this is covered for free under a special enhanced warrantee issued by Toyota for this part ONLY". They fixed buttons. For free. Looks like they put a whole new fixture where the buttons are.

 

[Scotophor]

There are a couple of different issues that people have with the overhead buttons. It sounds like you had the issue where the electrical switches behind the plastic buttons actually stop working. Luckily you got them fixed with the warranty enhancement. The other possible issue is a simple DIY fix. The circuit board containing the electrical switches can also pop off of its mounting hooks. If that happens, pressing the buttons will feel different - they will have no resistance behind them and not click at all. To fix, just remove the overhead panel (usually held by a couple of screws and a couple of VERY stiff spring metal friction "claws" clips) and press the circuit board back into place until it snaps into the hooks again. If the switch board keeps coming off, you may have to engineer a more lasting solution but it won't be too difficult.

 

[tjhoo]

Ybre,
Thanks for the detailed repair description with photos. We have recently experienced similar problems with our 05 XLE, and went through your steps. When we got to the testing of the voltage (Step 5), there was nothing, 0 volts. You state that it means we may have a problem with the control module. Do you have any further experience with testing the control module? Thanks!

 

[tjhoo]

Ybre,
Thanks for the detailed repair description with photos. We have recently experienced similar problems with our 05 XLE, and went through your steps. When we got to the testing of the voltage (Step 5), there was nothing, 0 volts. You state that it means we may have a problem with the control module. Do you have any further experience with testing the control module? Thanks!

Turns out if the door motor is disconnected, the 12V is not sent to the latch terminals, which is how I first tested it. Thus, later I left everything connected and tested and the 12V was there. Hence, I ordered the replacement motor (from DigiKey) for $10ish including shipping.

A few weekends later I successfully took out the assembly, replaced the motor and reassembled and the door is working again.

 

[jjdreese]

+1 for the slide door release actuator.

I had the same problem develop on my 2006 Limited RH sliding door. I followed the excellent DIY from <2004 Sienna> over at tundrasolutions.com (see enclosed pdf).

I did the repair in a little more than 90 minutes. I used 2 high quality Festool suction cups to hold the window, and saved a lot of time in not having to remove the window from the frame (one suction cup marked the place of the bolts, and the other suction cup held the window out of the way while doing the repair). Also, I managed to unscrew one of the screws that held the actuator, but the other screw I had to cut using my Dremel with a small metal cutoff wheel. You will see how to cut it when you have the new actuator part.

PS: I opened up the nonfunctional actuator, and it is possible to repair it by replacing the small motor in it (only cost a few USD).

We had a similar problem with our drivers-side sliding door. Push the button and the door would pop open and not slide, or slide "most" of the way back and stop. I followed the PDF tutorial. I think the part cost $60 on Amazon at the time? The problems mostly went away right after the fix, but still occasionally happened. Then after a few days... the problem went away 100%. Had Toyota put the two screwheads on the outside of the door frame, this replacement would take all of ten minutes. However, with the screwheads on the inside, it took me about three hours and I had to Dremel off the screw heads.

 

[audiqv8]

So out of the blue, our 06 Sienna LE's passenger side power door stopped opening/closing using either of the interior buttons. It pops and tries to open/close, but it acts like it's totally stuck.

BUT, when using the handles, both interior and exterior handles, the door powers open/closed flawlessly. Seems to only have the problem when using the switches.

Anyone else run into this?

Thanks!

The lock actuator is your problem. You can buy a motor from Digikey or buy a new actuator. Do a search there are a lot of articles on repairs and also check youtube.

 

[cdguy707]

Hi guys... I have read through both the really long 200+ posts sliding door threads. No where have I been able to find my problem. Hopefully someone can help. I have a 2005 Sienna XLE. Both doors needed door release actuators and the driver side needed the cable replacement and center hinge replacement. I did it all and everything works again except on the passenger door. The passenger door opens with the buttons, key fob and handle no problem but when it opens it locks in place. Using the buttons and key fob, it acts like it wants to close but just jerks and doesn’t engage the lock release to close. The only way it will close is if you use the inside handle. The outside handle doesn’t release it. What could be causing this?

 

[cdguy707]

Figured it out. For some reason the metal tab that pulls the door release mechanism was on the wrong side of the release mechanism tab... if that makes sense. I just muscled it to the other side and now all is well. Feels good to have both working doors again. Even replaced my driver side front axle today. Today was a good day.

 

[feenoh]

Alright so this was super easy...kind of...
I bought my 05 sienna used, and when we bought it the driver's side door already had this issue. I never was too concerned about it though because the passenger's side worked, which is the side the kids get in and out of anyway. Well, we've had the van now for close to 4 years, and the passenger side door just recently stopped working. So I had to do something and this thread was one of the first that popped up. So I did order the motors only which I think were around 6 bucks each plus another 6 or so for shipping. I followed the advice and bought some screws in advance. I also went out and bought a soldering iron.

I'm no mechanic, but I know how to follow directions so I was looking forward to getting this going. I started at about 3 pm following the directions provided in the pdf. I used wood for the window but also some suction cups as a backup, had no issues with that part. The trouble began with the actuator screws. The ones everybody talks about here. I basically stripped them immediately. I spent a few hours grinding, heating, etc etc...nothing seemed to work. I took a trip down to the local lowes and picked up a screw extracter...that didn't work either. I decided to call it a night as I had been working on this for a few hours now.

I woke up the next morning with a fresh mind and fresh coffee and figured out my first problem...the seat. The seat is somewhat in the way making it a little difficult to get some leverage on the screws. I took the seat out of the van and figured I'd try the extractor since it was still in the drill. One minute later, the screws were out and I was able to easily finish the job.

Taking this new knowledge I moved on to door number 2. This time I made sure I removed the seat before starting. Once I got to the actuator, I made sure I had the right bits for the screws. This time, thanks to the leverage because the seat was removed, and having the right bits, the screws came out with no problem whatsoever...no heating, no grinding..nothing! This door took less than an hour because I learned from my mistakes.

So if you skipped my long story just remember these two things:
1: Take the seat out!
2: Have the correct bits.

Take this advice and follow the pdf and anybody could do this job.

 

[Rcar]

June 2020: My 2006 had similar problems. I replaced the little motor by drilling out the stuck phillips head bolts which softened the locktite. Now, while the door opens and closes with the handle tug, which it did before the motor change, the internal switches bump the door but it does not open or close. I tried the battery reset steps but that has not changed anything. Are their different quality little motors or am I facing something else? How do I figure this out.

 

[Locke888]

Replaced the digikey part a couple weeks ago. Works great and only $10. This is the 2nd time it’s failed though. Originally I had bought the whole assembly ( I think $65??) and replaced it but that only worked 3-4 years. This was very easy especially the 2nd time.

Also, I was lucky, the screws came out easily for me both times.

 

[Dirk]

So out of the blue, our 06 Sienna LE's passenger side power door stopped opening/closing using either of the interior buttons. It pops and tries to open/close, but it acts like it's totally stuck.

BUT, when using the handles, both interior and exterior handles, the door powers open/closed flawlessly. Seems to only have the problem when using the switches.

Anyone else run into this?

Thanks!

Sort of related: my arm rest pad broke - so I bought a used whole long teak piece to replace the whole arm unit, but I realized it does not have the 2 power switch pieces in it. Can I put my original 2 switches into the new unit? Do they pop out?

 

[floppydisk]

The digi-key 12V motor link doesn't seem to be working as it says the part number is invalid. Any chance someone knows the proper part number so I can order a couple of motors?

I just did the install yesterday. Digikey has about 2000+ motors in stock.
digi-key part number: P14346-ND
MFG P/N: PAN14EE12AA1 (note - i checked the motor I pulled out to the new one and they match)
and, a link to it: PAN14EE12AA1 NMB Technologies Corporation | Motors, Solenoids, Driver Boards/Modules | DigiKey

Happy repairing...

 

[paul r]

Thank you for the Digikey link

 

[QuietDownBackThere]

I had to do this job over the weekend. Digikey is out of stock on the motor. I ended up finding the motor on eBay in a kit with the two mounting screws, a little bit of grease and some blue Loctite. $20 with free shipping. Worked great. Job took me two hours as I had to drill out one of the screws because the thread insert let go. I agree that these screws were probably JIS crosspoint type.

 

[Locke888]

Replaced the digikey part a couple weeks ago. Works great and only $10. This is the 2nd time it’s failed though. Originally I had bought the whole assembly ( I think $65??) and replaced it but that only worked 3-4 years. This was very easy especially the 2nd time.

Also, I was lucky, the screws came out easily for me both times.

Damn, this failed again on me last week. I had just fixed it.

 

[dave128]

Damn, this failed again on me last week. I had just fixed it.

Ive done this 3 times in a matter of a month or 2.. The issue Ive had twice is that the actuator gets stuck in the open/unlatched position and never returns to the starting/original position. I've lubed everything up but it seems like theres either not enough spring tension to pull it back, or theres is something in the circuit still trying to pull the latch open after the button is pressed/released... I've fiddled with just about every cable and spring now but I'm really starting to think its something in the door controller not releasing voltage on the actuator. perhaps I'll get a multimeter out and test..