Not the hose but I did have to replace the pump after forgetting to tighten that hidden pump bolt down during a timing belt change, ruining the pump bearing. The pressure line banjo bolt on top of the pump is a PITA to get at. Maybe it can be reached with a combination of extensions and universal joints and/or swivel socket from the engine compartment but I didn't have any 1/2" versions of those so I ended up R&Ring that banjo bolt by unbolting the pump and using a box end wrench. It's on there tight. If you have to do the same, be sure to mark the angle of the hose coming out of the pump before you loosen it.

I paid $35 for a used pump and it had the pressure line attached and intact. It's easier for the salvage yard to remove the pressure line at the rack side so that's how they sold it.

 

Man , you are making me think twice about that hidden pump bolt as I recently did my timing belt. Gonna check it out soon.

 

Can't help specifically for the Sienna, but when I did it on our Maxima, I went with the cheap hose despite the comments that I had read saying they had power steering whine when using the cheap hoses. Every once in a while it turns out that what you read on the Internet is true. Its not the end of the world, but after the amount of effort i put into installing that sucker, I expected quiet turns. I'd consider going OEM.

 

Gates is a good brand so I will roll the dice and go with it. I usually go OEM but it's too big of a price difference.

 

Have been pretty happy whenever I used Gates products.

 

This power steering hose goes all the way to the steering rack correct? I would spray down the connection at the rack where the 2 lines go in while the lines are on order. They sometimes strip coming out.

 

Correct! I was afraid of that and already sprayed some PB Blaster on it.

 

Just to add another idea to the discussion about replacement hoses . . . in many cases (and especially with Toyota/Lexus hoses because of their generally robust construction) it is entirely possible to have the more elaborate (i.e. expensive) ones rebuilt by a hydraulic service shop for less than OEM or aftermarket hoses, and with equal or better quality than original.
.02

 

Not sure if you looked for the hoses online but at Rockauto the Gates lines would cost you a bit over $100 for the pair (at least for my 2005)

2005 TOYOTA SIENNA 3.3L V6 Power Steering Return Hose | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 2005 TOYOTA SIENNA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

2005 TOYOTA SIENNA 3.3L V6 Power Steering Pressure Hose | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 2005 TOYOTA SIENNA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

I'm not sure what you are talking about? I am replacing the just pressure hose(one hose) GATES 365842 on a 2007 Sienna. On Rockauto it's currently $74.79.

 

After 38k miles and two years and four months the hose is leaking again at the same spot. Researching the Gates hose I found out it may be made by Plews Edelmann. Edelmann sells the same hose too but only with a one year warranty while the Gates is limited lifetime warranty. Since I am already on this path I may just get the Edelmann version this time and save the $17 price difference(Gates $79/Edelmann $61). In hindsight maybe I should of spent $400 and got the Toyota hose.

Looks like I have two projects to fix leaks this spring. I also have a leak from the oil cooler.

 

Did you notice post 9 by goodtogo? I've heard of a few guys going that route with good results. At the very least you could give a local shop a call and maybe get a quote over the phone as to how much a replacement might be.

 

I saw it. I called a couple places and they only deal with industrial and commercial equipment only.

 

just go to any local junkyard or auto dismantler of imports and get one of those cars....no problems... I bought power steering pump and reservoir for cheap...like $80 total for both from a import auto dismantler..... they did cut the big high pressure hose which I didn't need anyway....guessing it was easier for them to cut and take off.... I put them in and no problems. reused the double stacked joined washer on the line at the pump....

But I bet if you requested just the hose, or even the pump and requested all attachment hoses....they would have taken it out completely nice with the pump as a package... for labor intensive job,,, I buy oem toyota stuff parts....but won't pay $400 for stupid hose from toyota.... I would try the junkyard or auto dismantler first before $400.... only bad part was that R/R pump wasn't that easy, kind of hard to get to the one bolt...

 

If I can get to it before someone else does and has less miles than mine. Or else they will just cut it like yours since the pump is presumably more valuable. I don't think they know about the $400 hose lolz. In my area it's rare to see anything 2007+ Sienna's in the pick your own parts junkyards. I think they are dismantled for parts since they are still newer.

 

#3 power steering hose put on this weekend with the warm weather(36 degrees and sunny lolz). Hopefully it last longer than 38k miles. I can confirm that the Edelmann and the Gates hose are the same one. The picture shows the part numbers for both brands tagged on the hose.

 

How did you bleed the system after replacing the hose?

 

Ive always been able to just let it self-bleed (air bubbles back into reservoir) by turning the steering wheel back and forth (lock-to-lock) several times with the front wheels lifted off the ground so as not to cause any strain on the pump until the air has all been pushed out.

 

Ditto. Have a helper in the van with the engine running and have him/her turn the wheel back and forth a bit while you keep topping off the fluid. I shouldn't take more than five minutes.

 

Turn the steering wheel back and forth lock to lock 5 or six times to bleed the system. Make sure you use the correct fluid which is Dexron III transmission fluid.

 

How did you bleed the system after replacing the hose?

I replaced this line over the weekend. The drivers side connector was a pain to get to due to the close quarters with the other line. I bleed the system using a hand pump vacuum tool (rented from Autozone), the same one you would use for bleeding your brakes. Held vacuum while running and rotating lock to lock. Took 5 min.

 

I replaced this line over the weekend. The drivers side connector was a pain to get to due to the close quarters with the other line. I bleed the system using a hand pump vacuum tool (rented from Autozone), the same one you would use for bleeding your brakes. Held vacuum while running and rotating lock to lock. Took 5 min.

Did you replace it with the Toyota hose or aftermarket hose? Yes, it's tight around there. I had to buy a 16mm flare nut wrench and cut it in half to make it easier to remove and install that hose.

 

I got it from Autozone: Duralast Power Steering Pressure Line Hose Assembly 92433 $92.68 after coupon. But I think it is just a relabeled edelman/gates house.
The leak has slowed but not completely gone away. I need to jack it back up to crawl under there and see where else it might be leaking from. I suspect the pump because I really beat it up when I pulled it off the replace the VVTI lines.

 

I had my original hose rebuilt march 2020.

My pressure hose failed me today. Dont have access to a hydraulic shop.i also had a rotted return line which i thought was leaking with the amount of rot on it. I replaced with an edelmans brand filled it back up, changed pressure line copper washers because those were leaking too. Ran the car got it nice n hot, went under the car supply line was the culprit.

Cant afford a toyota one so the lines are being rockautoed out. Too much of a price difference

 

Mechanic never sent it out to the hydraulic shop. He put an edelman hose in. The same one i baught lol. Not bad to take out. There are 2 bolts and a clip for the o2 sensor to remove. You can squeeze your hand up there and pop the clip and a flex 10mm ratchet to undo the nut on the engine side and pull out with bracket in tact. I did not expect the job to be as steady as it was. 1 10 mm bolt holding by rack a 5/8 wrench to loosen the flare, o2 sensor clip and the 10 mm nut holding the bracket to the engine side. I would spray it dpwn with some good rust penetrant and be very careful. Nut and threads were rusty. Took a hour of tightening and loosening to finally get it off. My sienna is awd btw