[dragon37]

8 days later...door won't work automatically. What's up?

Our sienna 2005 LE has same problem on the driver side sliding dorr, I found some possible solution on carspace, however does not have time and parts for repair, just for your information and good luck.

-Philip

C/P from edmunds caspace
=================================================================================
#321 of 398
Re: Power door is not delatching [sienna_andy] by sienna_andy
Oct 17, 2009 (9:23 am)
Reply

Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 02, 2009 9:19 am)
Just to give a quick update. I did successfully diagnose and fix the problem that a few of us described. To briefly restate the problem for anyone searching, the interior and exterior handles do usually succesfull engage the automatic sliding door, but the door would not open using the key fob, pillar button or front button. The problem as familymandan surmized was related to the door latches not releasing.

Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)

I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.

Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.

Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.

All is working great now.

==============================================================================================

 

[SiennaOwner]

8 days later...door won't work automatically. What's up?

Our sienna 2005 LE has same problem on the driver side sliding dorr, I found some possible solution on carspace, however does not have time and parts for repair, just for your information and good luck.

-Philip

C/P from edmunds caspace
=================================================================================
#321 of 398
Re: Power door is not delatching [sienna_andy] by sienna_andy
Oct 17, 2009 (9:23 am)
Reply

Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 02, 2009 9:19 am)
Just to give a quick update. I did successfully diagnose and fix the problem that a few of us described. To briefly restate the problem for anyone searching, the interior and exterior handles do usually succesfull engage the automatic sliding door, but the door would not open using the key fob, pillar button or front button. The problem as familymandan surmized was related to the door latches not releasing.

Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)

I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.

Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.

Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.

All is working great now.

==============================================================================================

I found and copied the same for my DH. Unfortunately, he's been rather busy (not to mention stuck in France for a few extra days because of the volcanic ash). Maybe I can convince him when he realizes that he can do some sweat equity and a few hundred dollars or he can let someone else do it and pay $1500!

BTW...after I put a piece of duct tape over the pillar button to remind the boys not to use it, the door started working again (habits are hard to break). Go figure....

 

[topspy]

Duct tape fixes just about anything. ;D ;D ;D 8)

 

[vanmom]

I have a 2004 Sienna and one night when a friend was trying to close the door it was stuck open. We had to snap the cable by pulling on the door to get home. The cable was hanging on the side of the van until I had the dealership cut the cable. I am not going to pay $2K to fix it. I am hoping it will become a campaign that Toyota will remedy.

 

[topspy]

Anyone know any hungry newshounds that might want to do a story on the door issue for a slow news day???

 

[eyemommy]

We have a 2004 (purchased July 2003) with the one passenger side, power sliding door. In late 2007, while under our extended warranty, the cable snapped and, obviously, the door stopped working. The repair was made by the dealership and covered by our warranty.

Just last week, 100 miles past our 100,000 mile extended warranty, that same door stopped working. The cable didn't snap this time but a black plastic clip-ish or anchor-ish looking piece came flying off as the sickening noise was heard and the door ground to a halt. BUMMER!!

I had just had the van into the dealer to check the sliding doors because they both stick like crazy - hot weather, cold weather, sunny day, humid day, but that is another, related story - and the power door was sounding funny plus I knew we were going to be out of warranty shortly. Fast forward a few days and a hundred miles and BAM! broken power slider.

I believe the frequent failure of these doors is due to their subsequently corrected design flaw that causes the unreasonable and troublesome sticking/freezing of the sliding doors. I have to pry them open at least several times a week - even multiple times a day - and in a really bad freeze, climb in through the front doors and push hard against the door frame with my shoulder to get them to open............a rather inconvenient and sometimes downright embarrassing happening.

Now that we will be cutting the cable and creating two manual sliding doors, I can only hope that the exterior handles don't break off because of how often and how firmly the doors both stick.

Thanks for letting me vent!

 

[samuelso]

We had a 2004 with a fully functioning power sliding door ... until today, and it is our fault! :-[

The city just repaved the road by our home, and screwed up the sensor to trigger the stoplite. So I suggested that our daughter should get out of the van and go push the 'walk' button to get things going. My wife puts the van in park and opens the side door. My daughter jumps out the side door, pushes the button, and climbs back in. The wife hits the close door button and the door starts closing. But then the light changes, the wife slams the car into drive and hits the gas like a drag racer, but before the door has latched shut. As the car lurches forward, the door slides backwards and slams into the fully open position. After a lot of yelling, we pull over, put the car in park, and hit the button to close the door. The door slides nearly all the way closed but does not latch and opens again. So we hit the manual override switch and shut the door. The door closes and latches in both front and back. We set the switch back to automatic and try opening the door. The door opens and latches in the open position. However, when we try to close it the same thing happens - the door moves to within inches of the closed position (and it seems to slow down as it moves) and then it reverses direction and opens again.

We get the van home, and I tried manually closing the door and disconnecting the battery. I let it sit for a few minutes and reconnected. Unfortunately, there was no change to the door's operation. Any recommendations of what to check? The cables appear to all be intact. Am I looking at replacing the infamous $800 motor? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[brian_bp]

The door moves properly through the entire range of motion when moved manually, and the cable is still connected: to me, that says there is nothing mechanically wrong with the cable or motor (it's not broken or jammed), and thus it seems unlikely that the really expensive bits will need to be replaced. It sounds like a switch problem, but I don't have anything more specific to suggest than that.

 

[bamanate]

I too had the problem with the automatic door on my 06 LE not opening or closing without holding the handle in the open position for a second or two. I took it to a local dealer for repair a week ago and they quoted me $580 to replace a motor that went out. I thankfully had purchased the extended warranty so I had to only pay the $50 deductible to get it replaced. One irritation is they charged the warranty company $110 for the part and $130 for the labor, for a total of $240 plus my $50. That is a lot less than what they quoted me? Now I have a piece of black plastic trim on the outside of the door that frames in the back of the window that has a broken clip on one of its connection points and a broken plastic connector from the door at another. It appears to only be held on by a screw and when you get up to speed on the interstate you see it pull away due to wind. Kind of odd this is broken two days after I received the van back from the dealer and it is on the door that was repaired.

 

[SiennaOwner]

The door moves properly through the entire range of motion when moved manually, and the cable is still connected: to me, that says there is nothing mechanically wrong with the cable or motor (it's not broken or jammed), and thus it seems unlikely that the really expensive bits will need to be replaced. It sounds like a switch problem, but I don't have anything more specific to suggest than that.

My door moves through the entire range of motion once it is manually engaged to open or close. However, my dealership is quoting the $1500 to 1800 repair! As near as I can tell, all I need is the Door Lock Release Motor Assembly (part no. 85620-08061). Since DH doesn't want to attempt the repair and my dealer wants to rip me off, I guess I'll just keep the duct tape over the button.

Now to figure out how to repair the broken Homelink button that my DH hammered in when he was too impatient....

 

[qassas]

We had our driver's side rear door jamb open this spring, in bitterly cold weather, requiring me to cut the cable (at exposed ends) to get the door to shut. I later took the door apart to remove the motor. The "spool" on the original motor grenaded itself, shattering the housing and permiting the cable to fray and kink.

There are two ways to fix this:

1. new motor assembley at about $800.00 (cost)
2. new spool assembly at just under $400.00 (cost)

The spool assembly on the new motor appears to be have been beefed up in comparison to the old unit. Great to know that the original part could have used this originally....

The replacement can be a DIY, with some mechanical savvy and a copy of the TSB. For the present time, we just the use the door as a manual door.

It is really discouraging to be a beta tester for Toyota technology, with no warranty coverage or service campaign support provided. Don't get me started on being 2.5 months out of warranty, but under on mileage, for the front door check, extended service campaign...

Can you Please supply us with the part number for the spool assembly, that would be really appreciated, thanks.

 

[sandman]

Hello, having nearly the same issues as everyone else, mine is on a 2005. Problem is mine is stuck closed. Will not open at all. Not with buttons, key fob, inside or outside handles. Can't get the door apart if I can't open it! Anyone have any ideas how to get it open?

 

[SiennaOwner]

Latest in my door issues. You can no longer open the from the inside at all. The door only opens from the outside. Once the door motor engages, the door opens with full range of motion. Thoughts????

 

[visual_image]

SiennaOwner,

Did you check the "child safety" switch on the end of the door? If it is on, then the button on the pillar and the inside door handle will not open the door. They will close the door though. You can check by opening the door with outside handle, upper console switch, or key fob button, then close it with the pillar button.

You can see the safety switch when you open the door.

 

[SiennaOwner]

SiennaOwner,

Did you check the "child safety" switch on the end of the door? If it is on, then the button on the pillar and the inside door handle will not open the door. They will close the door though. You can check by opening the door with outside handle, upper console switch, or key fob button, then close it with the pillar button.

You can see the safety switch when you open the door.

:-[ :-[ I cannot believe I didn't check this! When the door first started acting up, I went through everything. I guess one of the kids (10 & 12 left at home) or my DH messed with it and engaged the child safety locks, because I certainly didn't. DUH!

Still have the door motor latch trying to activate when trying to "electronically" (overhead, door pillar or fob) open the door, but not successfully releasing the door. However, at least my kids can now manually open the door. Much better than me getting out and coming around to their side (don't like them getting out "street-side") at school or bus stop.

 

[mink66]

Hello all, first time poster, so I apologize if this issue might have already been discussed or resolved. I've got a 2007 LE with left and right power sliding doors. The right side door opens automatically with the overhead console button and key fob, but will not close when pushing either button or the inside pillar button. It closes fine manually. Left side door operates normally opening or closing automatically. I have a hard time believing disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will help since the left side works fine. Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks!

 

[ppwlee]

Hi, just explaining another weird problem relating to my 2001 Sienna power door,

After following the reinitilization procedure, doors open and close fine but only when the engine is on. It appears that as soon as the engine is shut down, the passenger side door would behave erratically (not open, not close, partial close etc).

I checked the battery (engine off) and it's giving out 12.4V. Any suggestion as to the next step of troubleshooting? Thanks.

 

[a_gunslinger]

Ours just started today. Power passwenger slider door starts to close normally but then stops at about 50% closed and returns to open. Imminent cable/door failure or have onbe of the kids pressed a safety button of some sort (Im hoping).

 

[davis911s]

Still have the door motor latch trying to activate when trying to "electronically" (overhead, door pillar or fob) open the door, but not successfully releasing the door. However, at least my kids can now manually open the door. Much better than me getting out and coming around to their side (don't like them getting out "street-side") at school or bus stop.

Has anyone fixed tis issue?? I am looking at buying a Sienna that has this exact problem. The power door opens using the handles, but does not operate with any switches. So the motor is good , just sounds like a switch. I am wondering how much it will cost me to fix this issue

Thanks

 

[05xle6]

The city just repaved the road by our home, and screwed up the sensor to trigger the stoplite.

Sorry about your door troubles. Just FYI, when inductive loop detectors are broken, the traffic controller automatically sets the detection to recall - meaning that it assumes there's a car waiting there. It typically results in longer wait times before a green light shows up, but a green light always will to prevent red light running.