[BillG]

Anyone seen video or at least something to completely remove passenger sliding door? I need to remove some rust and paint near the rear right wheel. As well change the door rubber sealant, or how it's called. It got rust at the bottom as well

I followed a video from YouTube several years ago, so I'm sure there's one there. It wasn't hard. It was actually much harder getting it back ON the van, due to gravity and working solo. Really, though, if you can, I would work on it ON the car. It should be relatively easy to work on, plus mask off the neighboring areas. If it's in particularly bad condition with rust, dings and dents, I'd probably opt to pay a couple hundred dollars and get an 'A' condition door from a junkyard and just repaint it to match. The labor will be far, far less and the end result will be far, far superior.

 

[rdbachman]

The passenger sliding door for our 2009 Sienna suddenly stopped closing automatically. The door will open fine with the fob or either button in the van, but absolutely nothing happens if I try to close it with the same electronic signal. This problem started as I was removing one of the middle seats from the van, and I hit the front of the door fairly hard with the seat as I was removing it; i.e. it was already all the way open, and the door was essentially hit hard in the direction of continuing to open. (see attached picture)

A technician at a local dealership indicated that the motor needs to be replaced (to the tune of $1,600-1,700), but I'm skeptical given the timing and the fact that the motor works fine in one direction. I think it is more likely to be some sort of sensor, but I don't know exactly which one. I thought maybe there was a cable in the plastic/rubber assembly at the front of the door, but I took that apart, and I do not think that is the issue. I'm wondering if it could be somehow related to the mechanism that secures the door from sliding forward when it is fully open.

Also, I should mention that I took apart both doors (one that works and one that doesn't), and I disconnected the computer from the motor. When I try to perform the close functionality with the door halfway open, the computer and relay switches for the door that does not open have fewer clicking sounds than the door that does open. I think there is some sensor that is telling the computer to not allow the door to engage the motor to close it.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[rdbachman]

Sorry, I accidentally posted twice and I can't delete the second post; I can only edit it. You can ignore this comment.

 

[Kovalenko Ihor]

I would suggest you to change the sliding door to manual mode. I have been lubricating my power sliding door regularly (it lasted 15 years) and the cable on the passenger side finally broke a few weeks back. Luckily it did not stuck.

Where do you lubricate it?

 

[brratek]

Hello every!
My pass doors open only manually.

• I check all fuses in two fuse boxes
• When I close doors not for the end - motor close it completely
• Left doors working properly
• I rechange lock motor inside locking Mechanism.

* When open manually I must pull handle 3 times: 1. Pull to back the car 2. Pull to front (I hear little pop like something bebunlocked) and 3. Pull back
...to open slide manually.

Thx for your reply and attention

 

[efair]

Hi all, first posting here. The family has acquired a 2004 LE with non-working RHS power sliding door. I've reviewed the documents in this thread, including the TSB, thank you for posting them. I am wondering if there is any high-level description of these doors that describes all the mechanical and electrical components, what they do, where they're located, and how they operate together, before I start the repair. There do seem to be a few failure modes for this door, and I'd like to make sure I'm chasing the right rabbit before I start. In our case, the door is stuck closed and will not open in the least.

 

[2ndGen6ix]

Hi all, first posting here. The family has acquired a 2004 LE with non-working RHS power sliding door. I've reviewed the documents in this thread, including the TSB, thank you for posting them. I am wondering if there is any high-level description of these doors that describes all the mechanical and electrical components, what they do, where they're located, and how they operate together, before I start the repair. There do seem to be a few failure modes for this door, and I'd like to make sure I'm chasing the right rabbit before I start. In our case, the door is stuck closed and will not open in the least.

Here you go:

How to Replace Power Sliding Door Cables on 2004-2010 Toyota Sienna · Share Your Repair

How to replace power sliding door cables on 2004-2010 Toyota sienna. Join the people who have saved $1000 with my tutorial!

www.shareyourrepair.com

 

[Integrity shepherds]

I replaced a 12v tiny motor inside the Door Latch Assembly for $5 that I got online. Spent less than 1 hr to remove the entire door panel and replaced the tiny motor. Saved myself $1000+ from having the dealer ripped me off. The motor assembly is located below "E"

Can you come over and fix mine??

 

[thatguy427]

Hello every!
My pass doors open only manually.

• I check all fuses in two fuse boxes
• When I close doors not for the end - motor close it completely
• Left doors working properly
• I rechange lock motor inside locking Mechanism.

* When open manually I must pull handle 3 times: 1. Pull to back the car 2. Pull to front (I hear little pop like something bebunlocked) and 3. Pull back
...to open slide manually.

Thx for your reply and attention

I'm guessing it's a bad switch on the locking mechanism or door handle mechanism. The left side works fine, correct? Testing the switches on the door handle mechism is the easiest. Remove the inner door handle cover then see if the switches click. There are two there. Then three on the rear locking mechanism.

It could also be a failed nylon coupling I'm the door handle mechanism. Usually this shows itself by not allowing the door to open at all though. It makes it think the door is permanently locked.

 

[thatguy427]

Hi all, first posting here. The family has acquired a 2004 LE with non-working RHS power sliding door. I've reviewed the documents in this thread, including the TSB, thank you for posting them. I am wondering if there is any high-level description of these doors that describes all the mechanical and electrical components, what they do, where they're located, and how they operate together, before I start the repair. There do seem to be a few failure modes for this door, and I'd like to make sure I'm chasing the right rabbit before I start. In our case, the door is stuck closed and will not open in the least.

Yeah, there is a nylon bushing in your door handle mechanism that's failed. Now your door thinks it's permanently locked. If you lock the door and pry back the housing, there is a point (the top) where two cables connect at the same arm. Engage those cables and the door will pop open.
I got my replacement from the junk yard. Side matters, non powered doors mechanisms are the same just without the switches, which can be transfered.

If anyone knows a good source for a reliable replacement bushing, please let me know.

 

[markopolo14]

The passenger sliding door for our 2009 Sienna suddenly stopped closing automatically. The door will open fine with the fob or either button in the van, but absolutely nothing happens if I try to close it with the same electronic signal. This problem started as I was removing one of the middle seats from the van, and I hit the front of the door fairly hard with the seat as I was removing it; i.e. it was already all the way open, and the door was essentially hit hard in the direction of continuing to open. (see attached picture)

A technician at a local dealership indicated that the motor needs to be replaced (to the tune of $1,600-1,700), but I'm skeptical given the timing and the fact that the motor works fine in one direction. I think it is more likely to be some sort of sensor, but I don't know exactly which one. I thought maybe there was a cable in the plastic/rubber assembly at the front of the door, but I took that apart, and I do not think that is the issue. I'm wondering if it could be somehow related to the mechanism that secures the door from sliding forward when it is fully open.

Also, I should mention that I took apart both doors (one that works and one that doesn't), and I disconnected the computer from the motor. When I try to perform the close functionality with the door halfway open, the computer and relay switches for the door that does not open have fewer clicking sounds than the door that does open. I think there is some sensor that is telling the computer to not allow the door to engage the motor to close it.

Any ideas or suggestions?

View attachment 64156 View attachment 64156

Hey,

I was wondering if you ever figured out a fix for your sliding door that would open fine but not close. I've got a similar problem on my 08 where the doors will open automatically just fine, but when I try to close them (with the remote or buttons) they will just continue to try to open. Like the motor moves them to open.



Luckily I've been able to just put them in manual mode and they work just fine like that but it would be nice to have them working automatically.

 

[cdlenfert]

Did you ever find a solution to this? I have the right side door getting almost closed, then it sounds like it impacts the body of the van at the rear of the opening then it reverses. If I nudge it right at the end it will close. I have lubricated everything I can reach with white lithium grease but doesn't seem to help. Trying to avoid taking the whole thing apart.

Did you ever find a solution to this? Same exact scenario playing out on our driver side rear sliding door. A clunk, and sometimes it powers through and closes, and other times it reverses direction. Hand guiding it forward with a little assistance always works to close it.