This one isn't bad and he calls out the torque values at reassembly. This is the only way to do it - no shortcuts are available.
If you have a decent set of tools and some experience turning them, the job is super easy - just takes time to take it all apart (3/8 drive ratchet with metric sockets, wrenches, pliers, torque wrench that'll do 5-30 ft/lbs (usually a 3/8 drive torque wrench is in this range for the plugs and all fasteners in this job).
Some of the coil on plug (COP) wiring connector clips WILL break. They're brittle. Decide before if you want to zip tie them or get some replacements beforehand. The video above covers this.
If you have compressed air, use it to blow out the dust just before you're ready to remove the upper intake plenum. Also good to have a shop vac to clean up after you remove the plenum. Put some clean shop towels in the intake ports. Murphy is present and dropping a bolt or nut in the hole will cause angst and wasted time fishing it out.
Also, it's not a bad idea to replace the back three COP while it's apart. Might as well for insurance. The front three can wait if you don't want to do them all - easy to get to later if needed. You can go genuine Toyota ($90/each) but I've had good luck with Delphi, NGK, Hitachi. Don't buy super cheap aftermarket.
You'll need a throttle body to manifold gasket and intake manifold to engine gasket.
It's good to have anti-seize paste (just a little for the plug threads; don't get ANY on the insulator or electrode) and silicone di-electric grease for the COP boots where they connect to the spark plug tops.
I like Rockauto.com for parts.