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Yet another custom roof rack thread...

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12K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Ronji  
#1 ·
Just got a new 2020 LE yesterday. This is our second Sienna. We put 250K miles on a 2009 and went back for more.

The roof rack on the 2020 is a disappointment. It wasn't great on our 2009, but it was better. We kayak and generally used the roof rack for all kinds of things (like getting plywood and lumber from Home Depot), while not idea, the 2009 was usable. The best system I've had to date was on a 2009 Nissan Pathfinder we owned, not too high and nicely adjustable from front to back.

OK, so, I am an aerospace engineer and have access to some pretty cool manufacturing equipment. I want to modify my 2020 Sienna to have a roof system that is truly flexible and usable. This is likely to require designing and machining a bunch of custom parts. That's OK. We are keeping this vehicle for a while and truly want it to be as useful as possible.

My first thought was that it would be great to have something as conceptually system as full length t-slot rails instead of the half length things with low flexibility I got with the car.

The most obvious go-to for any engineer when it comes to t-slot systems are these extrusions (made by a bunch of companies):


Roughly speaking, the roofline is eight feet long, so each rail of the above profile would weigh-in at eight lbs. I haven't removed the OEM rails but can imagine them being in that range.

There are other options within that family:



Something slim like this:


Or super-beefy like this:


What I am thinking is that, rather than design a rack or rack system, what I want to do is design a set of mounting brackets that would allow anyone to use any of the t-slot extrusions to build whatever rack system they might need. One obvious example of this is something like the Yakima roof rack platform, which uses custom t-slotted extrusions (likely not compatible with standard t-slots).

Engineering t-slot extrusions are available in multiples of 1 inch or 1.5 inches for imperial measurements (1x1, 1.5x1.5, 1.5x3, etc.) and multiples of 20 and 40 mm for metric versions.

What I imagine are bolt plates machined from aluminum that would bolt on to the existing rack's bolt points. In the front I would design a matching bolt plate, the difference being that the roof would have to be drilled for mounting these plates. There are engineering-grade adhesives that might be able to do the job without drilling and bolting but I would very much hesitate to take this path without very extensive thermal and simulated aging testing. In other words, the safest approach is likely to be to drill through the roof. and use bolts.

The tops of these adaptor plates would be machined to be on the same level. This means that you could slide through a 1.5 x 1.5 in t-slotted pipe and it would be perfectly straight.

With t-slot rails on each side one could take racking to any imaginable level. I used to row shells years ago. A short recreational shell is in the range of 17 feet and something like a Maas is in the order of 24 feet. With solid mount points on the roof a t-slot rack system could be created to elegantly address shells as well as shorter (11 foot) Ocean Kayak's as well as other non-boating equipment.

I am also looking for an easy to manage system to get kayaks on and off the Sienna. The vehicle is very high putting things up there is a pain. The Yakima and Thule kayak racks that tilt down for waist-level loading are good (yet expensive) ideas. Maybe there's a way to use an adaptable t-slot-based system to achieve something similar at a lower cost.

Anyhow, I am wondering what other owners think about this. I need this solution for my own purposes and wills start working on it right away. Has anyone done anything like this? Maybe I am reinventing the wheel?


Thanks,

-Martin
 
#2 ·
There are past threads about carrying kayaks and racing shells on the gen 3 Sienna roof that you should be able to find by searching this forum.

For all the trouble people go through to carry them on the roof, I don't understand why more people don't carry them on a trailer.
 
#3 ·
I'm sorry, I should have mentioned that I did study a bunch of other threads. Like this one:


All good ideas. I'm just looking at another take on the subject.

With regards to trailers. Not sure about everyone else, it's a pain in the behind unless you have storage space and can manage it. If you own a boat or jetski's you are going to have a trailer. Now you need to find a parking spot for yet another trailer for kayaks or shells. If, in addition to this, you want a roof rack that is useful for the occasional trip to get 2x4's or plywood from the hardware store, you really don't want to have to tow a trailer. If you have ever looked at trailers for 24 foot class rowing shells, well, they are very specialized animals. A trailer designed to carry a 24 foot shell isn't going to deal with plywood very well.

At the end of the day I think that it makes much more sense to come up with a truly flexible roof-top system to carry anything that is in the class of what a person can lift. Much more than that and I'd rather rent a cargo van/truck or we are talking about a boat or jet-ski's on a purpose-built trailer.

Toyota could have done a little more work and at least provided attachment points for a more sophisticated rack system. That said, judging from what I see on the road, most minivans and SUV's (90% ?) never carry anything on top.

-Martin
 
#4 ·
Software engineer, by degree, but my grandfather, who taught me everything about everything was a New England Yankee and engineer who built and fixed everything. My "solution" to the problem of the roof rack being too far back would be to get a rail further forward. Back in the day, my friend drove an Acura and took up snowboarding and he was the only one with a car. He bought a commercially made roof rack which had thin steel brackets which were custom made for the exact shape of the roof at the top of the door jam. They were a tight fit but were thinly padded to prevent scratches. You pushed them in, connected the rails between the front and back door, then added the roof rack rails across the side rails and then the snowboard holders on the rack rails.

I would think a couple brackets which mount at or around the top of the A-pillar and a front rail between them would give you everything you need. The angle of the junction between the A-pillar and the roof may cause issues with the rotational forces which would be applied, so you might have to move back on the front door opening where it starts to flatten out.
 
#5 ·
I would think a couple brackets which mount at or around the top of the A-pillar and a front rail between them would give you everything you need. The angle of the junction between the A-pillar and the roof may cause issues with the rotational forces which would be applied, so you might have to move back on the front door opening where it starts to flatten out.
I can machine brackets to match any curvature, so there would be full contact no matter where they are placed. That said, the placement of the brackets has to be in context of the underlying structural elements. The roof has cross beams welded to it on the underside:


Just looking at the diagram, it seems that something around beam 63107B (or between 63107B and 63143B) might make the most sense. Not sure. I believe the side airbag hardware is all located below all of this on the side of the liner. Don't want to mess with anything related to airbags.

The question still remains: Drill or adhesive bond. I need to run a study to understand what adhesives might be available for this kind of an application and how they might perform. I am not concerned about loading in the downward direction, anything can deal with that, even if not bolted/bonded. The important aspects of such a modification are vertical or twisting forces, particularly cyclic (up-down-up-down-up-down).

If this can be done without drilling/bonding it would certainly be a preferred solution. One thing I am curious about is what structural provisions exist in the sheet metal for a sunroof. I see diagrams where this is shown (although it isn't clear):


If there are reinforcements in place for the optional sunroof this means one could take advantage of this for extended rack mounts.

Does anyone know of a good site or videos where they show how to remove the liner and, in general, tear down and reinstall interior roof components? It looks like I'll need to do a bit of exploration. It would be useful to understand how to approach this the right way.

Thanks.
 
#6 ·
Just had a good call with 3M's industrial adhesive's division. Their recommendation is to use DP8805NS 2-part adhesive directly to painted metal. The recommended application thickness is 0.010 in (not super critical) and 24 hours before applying a load. This adhesive can achieve 1,000 pounds per square inch sheer strength. Put simply, if the roof could take it you could life the entire vehicle with brackets bonded with this adhesive.

The idea of bolting brackets to the roof just doesn't seem practical. Removing the liner isn't an easy task (and then you have to put it back). Also, staying away from anything related to airbags is a good idea.

So, right now I am thinking about machined aluminum brackets, with about a 2 x 4 inch surface bonded directly to the top of the roof using 3M DP8805NS. Fully cured, that would provide a theoretical 8,000 psi overlap shear rating (far more than required). The 3M engineer said this adhesive is designed to deal with environmental cycling (thermal, humidity) and vibration.
 
#9 ·
thinking about machined aluminum brackets, with about a 2 x 4 inch surface bonded directly to the top of the roof using 3M DP8805NS. Fully cured, that would provide a theoretical 8,000 psi overlap shear rating
I realize paint adhesion is better than it use to be but adhesion use to suck. Using panel adhesive to sandblasted bare metal might work but no one would do that. Imagine lose kayaks in traffic. Don't.
 
#7 ·
Not knowing 2020 Sienna particulars, I've found sometimes less is more. I bought a $35 roof rack twenty years ago and with minor mods, have used it on three different vehicles including my Sienna. Basically straps, hooks, stands and one inch conduit. Years ago I fabricated crossbars with welded rebar bent and covered with wacky noodles to wider conduit for two kayaks to rest in. Nice and wide, nice and far apart, secure and gone when not used. Never left a mark. I can get a original roof rack for free but don't want it.
 
#12 ·
Not necessarily looking to make a commercial enterprise out of this but, sure, if anyone wants some of the brackets we can look into making a small run and providing them.

The next step for me is to create a 3D model and study options. It is clear now that the two rear brackets (on each side of the car) will bolt on to the existing mount points and the front bracket will use the adhesive 3M recommends for this application. In that sense the application will be permanent.

One interesting option is to make the front a mounting plate rather than a full bracket. This means that, once bonded, it will provide threaded holes for mounting a bracket or anything else to them. Among other things, this would allow for experimentation with brackets and configurations. We'll see what makes sense as I get into it.
 
#15 ·
Hi Martin,
I am also looking to construct a roof rack with the T slot aluminum channel. The versatility is enormous and would suit all of my needs—kayaks, solar water tubes, solar panel, awning, maybe a light bar. Anything can be added as an after thought or moved around as needed....
The crux of the issue is as you say joining the rack to the roof. The slope and multiple angles of the roof make this a custom bracket for sure. I too am wondering if you have made progress on this endeavor?
The 2020 is clearly different from the 2009 you had. I've got the second generation (2004) so the roof mounts are further apart than the 2020? So there's less rail to cantilever.

In my travels I came across exactly what is needed for mounting to the existing roof rack mounts. I need to find a shop that can manufacture them. A different riser more suitable for the channel track but this looks like a good solution. An "I" beam of correct angle and heights should do nicely for mounting a rack.
Here's the rack I saw that I'd like to duplicate the mounts to transfer to the slotted railing. I'm thinking 8' length rails so a longer cantilever at the front.

The other pictures are the "structural support of the roof for the rack. Rear attachments (two nuts,) and the center attachment (single nut but two holes—plastic alignment piece in black just behind nut) I didn't go to the front as far as the front rack structure but I'd guess it's similar to the rear, given it too is two bolts.

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