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I guess I got lucky. Being in South Fl. might have helped since no salt and such on our roads. No winters! A few taps on the squared part of the hub was all it took to remove the axle out of the carrier housing.
 

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Just did this with a carbide reciprocating saw blade. Bought the van with 146K and noticed the inboard passenger CV clamp was missing and grease was splattering out. Shoved some grease in and and tie-wrapped the boot back on but on the last long trip I noticed a shuddering/vibration in the steering wheel when accelerating from 40–70mph. The guy who made youtube video #pb67N-asQUs that explains how/where to cut the axle shaft replaced his axle for the same reason. Figure about four hours on the ground, without a lift, although my van is a CO/NM car with little rust. The vibration is now gone. Some notes:


  • Need a 30mm, 12pt deep socket to get the axle nut off. The nut stake is impossible to remove so I just used my HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and wimpy, 85psi compressor to get it off.
  • The axle has to be cut on both sides. There isn't enough play in the axle shaft to lift the carrier bracket away from the locating pins otherwise.
  • Once the bracket was off and in a vice, took about five whacks with a 5lb sledge to get the axle/bearing out of the bracket. Cleaned the bracket ID with a Dremel and emery paper drum. Slathered anti-seize on the carrier ID in case the axle has to come out again.
  • Bought the new Carquest axle from Advance with 20% off Labor Day promo code. I hope it lasts.
  • The new axle has a 6pt, 32mm axle nut. Autozone loaner axle socket set included both the 30mm and 32mm sizes.
  • That plastic tit at the end of the carrier bolt is about 4mm or 3/16" thick.
Very nice write-up and pics. Using your advice plus others posts on this topic. My 07 Sienna CE (353K miles) recently started front end shakng on acceleration starting around 45 mph. Mech replaced the ds side cv axle cause found play...no joy! Now mechanic will R&R passenger side cv axle. Using Advanced Auto Carquest parts cause of available online discounts. I'll give a report on completion of job.
 

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Very nice write-up and pics. Using your advice plus others posts on this topic. My 07 Sienna CE (353K miles) recently started front end shakng on acceleration starting around 45 mph. Mech replaced the ds side cv axle cause found play...no joy! Now mechanic will R&R passenger side cv axle. Using Advanced Auto Carquest parts cause of available online discounts. I'll give a report on completion of job.
The passenger axle is very long. Any play in it causes that long shaft to shake a lot.
 

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Glad it worked out for you. What year is your Sienna? I used Carquest also from advance A, I believe I have over 25k on mine so far, done 3 yrs ago. I see your username..I take it 07
cheers
 

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Just want to throw an idea out there in the hope it might help someone...

We might be facing this job, so I'm reading up and discovered what a bear the passenger axle support / carrier bearing to remove from the bracket.

Studying the photos it looks like there might be an easier way to remove the bearing from the bracket using wedges. It looks as if when the axle is turned so that two of the cv joint corner "points" lines up with the support bracket retaining clip flange (lip?), you could drive a pair of steel splitting wedges between them on both sides (180 degrees out). Using alternating hammer blows on the wedges might extract the bearing from the carrier.
 

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Maybe. But you'd be wedging the CV joint against the bearing, which I think would be counterproductive. It might get that bearing out an eight of an inch or so, which would allow it to be removed the rest of the way by just yanking on the shaft.
 

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The tool that is a life saver for this job is an air hammer. An air hammer will break that bond between the CV axle and the bracket with no problem. Took me replacing two of those bastards to figure that one out. I took my grider to both of them to cut the axle, then on the second I figured out the air hammer to release the bracket once I had the axle out.
 

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The tool that is a life saver for this job is an air hammer. An air hammer will break that bond between the CV axle and the bracket with no problem. Took me replacing two of those bastards to figure that one out. I took my grider to both of them to cut the axle, then on the second I figured out the air hammer to release the bracket once I had the axle out.
Maybe on a sun-belt Sienna. My Southern New England van got every possible approach, including the air hammer, and the only thing that actually worked was for me to surrender my pride, take it to a shop and have them torch the bracket into pieces to get the half-shaft out, followed by a new bracket from Toyota.
 

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The tool that is a life saver for this job is an air hammer. An air hammer will break that bond between the CV axle and the bracket with no problem. Took me replacing two of those bastards to figure that one out. I took my grider to both of them to cut the axle, then on the second I figured out the air hammer to release the bracket once I had the axle out.
So you fid the passenger side 2 times before the 3rd one with air hammer... Just curious, how many miles did these passengers cv axle last, assume its regular auto store part with lifetime warranty... Ir no??
Reason is i just replaced my passenger cv axle woth napa part lifetime warranty ones and it works but now i can start to feel some clunk or little play in them.. Havent checked it yet as long as its running..

What brand passenger cv axle did you put in and how many miles it lasted and what damaged on each one of why it needed replacement.. Serms a lot of cv axle for seinna unless parts are not ladying or you got tons of miles..??

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Maybe on a sun-belt Sienna. My Southern New England van got every possible approach, including the air hammer, and the only thing that actually worked was for me to surrender my pride, take it to a shop and have them torch the bracket into pieces to get the half-shaft out, followed by a new bracket from Toyota.
You could have cut the shaft like most of us and then press or slam that bearing out of brackets on a bench.. What i did.. Works
I don't think theres any need to torch or destroy apart the bracket itself.

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Can anyone provide the torque specs for the three bolts that hold the cv axle support bracket onto the engine block? [2005 Sienna FWD] Thank you...
 

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I can't find it in the manual. Maybe you can although cast iron-to-cast iron, it's not critical. 40 lbs/ft ought to suffice. I just cranked it down with a 1/2" ratchet.
 

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I can't find it in the manual. Maybe you can although cast iron-to-cast iron, it's not critical. 40 lbs/ft ought to suffice. I just cranked it down with a 1/2" ratchet.
The CV Axle Shaft Carrier Bearing Bracket [part 43457-08010] is cast iron, but the 2005 Sienna has the 3MZ-FE with an aluminum block, not cast iron, so Cast Iron bolted to Aluminum. The best reference I have found was a Toyota Service Bulletin (TSB) [T-SB-0019-20 - Page 6] for the 2019 RAV4 that specified 47 ft*lbf for the 3x bolts for the 'Drive Shaft Bearing Bracket'. The 2019 RAV4 engine is A25A-FKS, that also has an aluminum block.

The 3MZ-FE is a closed-deck design (no open space between the bores), while the A25A-FKS is an open-deck, so my assumption is that if 47 ft*lbf is good for the open-deck, then the close-deck block should have less issue with the torque.
 

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The CV Axle Shaft Carrier Bearing Bracket [part 43457-08010] is cast iron, but the 2005 Sienna has the 3MZ-FE with an aluminum block, not cast iron, so Cast Iron bolted to Aluminum. The best reference I have found was a Toyota Service Bulletin (TSB) [T-SB-0019-20 - Page 6] for the 2019 RAV4 that specified 47 ft*lbf for the 3x bolts for the 'Drive Shaft Bearing Bracket'. The 2019 RAV4 engine is A25A-FKS, that also has an aluminum block.

The 3MZ-FE is a closed-deck design (no open space between the bores), while the A25A-FKS is an open-deck, so my assumption is that if 47 ft*lbf is good for the open-deck, then the close-deck block should have less issue with the torque.
Just adding to this thread based off my axle replacement job I did over the past couple days, 17-18 February 2021. I have a 2011 Sienna XLE FWD with 134,000 miles. Both sides had blown CV axle boots as of a couple years ago. I waited as long as I thought I should and decided to order the parts and do the job this week. Axles were after-market from RockAuto. Replaced both output shaft seals with OEM parts bought at local Toyota dealership (Left part # 90311A0021, Right part # 90311A0029). Lots of the same things already mentioned. I only removed the brake caliper and bracket, and the 3 17mm bolts/nuts on bottom of lower control arm, to get the axle out of wheel hub...that was the easiest part of the job. On driver's side, I had a hard time getting the axle to pop out of transmission. Snap ring on that side only. My mechanic neighbor was able to pop it out with a good angle use of a pry bar. Same hard time popping the new one back in on driver's side. Again, my mechanic neighbor had the right touch and softly hammered it into place. Now...on the passenger side, carrier bearing was rusted solid inside the bracket for sure. I tried using those axle removal "forks" (rented from Autozone). [Quick side note: I had the front of the car up on jack stands so I had very little maneuver space under the car to do all this stuff. I highly recommend using a lift at a garage/auto skills center if you have access to one.] With the forks and a small hammer, I was able to bang away between the carrier bracket and the wheel-side part of the CV axle housing. I spent a lot of time doing that but the carrier bearing didn't budge. So, I went the sawzall route. Diablo Demon Carbide blade for thick steel. I cut on the transmission side of the bracket first. Took about 5 minutes, not too bad, but see side note about my set up...I was on my back with very little room. Then was able to get that piece of axle out of the transmission. Next I decide to attack the bracket bolts. Although videos said you could not get to all of them, I was able to with two different length 14mm combination wrenches, and an extended ratchet. Boom! Now the bracket and the rest of the axle was out. I then used sawzall to cut axle on wheel-side of bracket. Now I had to get the carrier bearing out of the bracket. Heat, penetrating oil, and banging with a hammer didn't do the trick. Bottom line: I went to my local Navy base auto skills center and used the shop press. It was nice to have some help there too. I used a 3 inch or so large socket as a base to put it on, then I "capped" the stubby axle top part with what I believe was part of a ball joint removal kit or some other bearing press kit. It was shaped like a socket. Either way, it fit over the piece of axle and rested on the inner works of the carrier bearing, and provided a flat surface on which the press could seat. It exploded into 10 pieces at about 20 tons of pressure! The bearing race came cleanly off and the bracket was good to go for reinstallation. I'm not sure what I would have done if that press wasn't available...I guess buy a new bracket for $140. Installation was not as easy as the videos I watched. The new carrier bearing didn't easily slide into the freshly installed bracket. It had to be pounded in, or pressed in. Since I didn't have the tools to do that on the car, and I didn't have the time to go out to do it, I decided to uninstall the bracket, then gently pound the bracket down to seat the carrier bearing outside of the car. My neighbor held it straight up and down and with some strategic taps on the bracket with my small sledge, I seated the carrier bearing to where it needed to be and installed the snap ring. Of course this made the two bracket dowels that are sticking out of the aluminum block complete obstacles to installation of the bracket. I knew I could manage tightening the bolts because I was able to loosen them with the axle in place, but I didn't think about how I could get the bracket onto those metal dowels once the end of the axle was in place in the transmission. Solution: I pulled out the metal dowels with vice grips. They came out easily. They are only about a half inch long and only help with bracket positioning. They don't support the weight. I tightened the bolts and the rest was pretty simple. Axle nuts need to be tightened to 217 ft/lbs of tourque when all done. On the seals, I did rent a seal driver kit, but a little dialectic grease helped a lot. Again, under-car access was a factor on my ability to use tools. Just make sure you don't push them in too far, and make sure the outer edge is as flush as possible with the out lip of the transmission case. I don't see any leaks yet! So...it's not as simple as the videos depict....at least for reinstallation. Use a lift to get more room under the car. Have some friends handy to help. Find a shop press if you can. Hope I don't have to do it again!!!
 

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Just did this with a carbide reciprocating saw blade. Bought the van with 146K and noticed the inboard passenger CV clamp was missing and grease was splattering out. Shoved some grease in and and tie-wrapped the boot back on but on the last long trip I noticed a shuddering/vibration in the steering wheel when accelerating from 40–70mph. The guy who made youtube video #pb67N-asQUs that explains how/where to cut the axle shaft replaced his axle for the same reason. Figure about four hours on the ground, without a lift, although my van is a CO/NM car with little rust. The vibration is now gone. Some notes:


  • Need a 30mm, 12pt deep socket to get the axle nut off. The nut stake is impossible to remove so I just used my HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and wimpy, 85psi compressor to get it off.
  • The axle has to be cut on both sides. There isn't enough play in the axle shaft to lift the carrier bracket away from the locating pins otherwise.
  • Once the bracket was off and in a vice, took about five whacks with a 5lb sledge to get the axle/bearing out of the bracket. Cleaned the bracket ID with a Dremel and emery paper drum. Slathered anti-seize on the carrier ID in case the axle has to come out again.
  • Bought the new Carquest axle from Advance with 20% off Labor Day promo code. I hope it lasts.
  • The new axle has a 6pt, 32mm axle nut. Autozone loaner axle socket set included both the 30mm and 32mm sizes.
  • That plastic tit at the end of the carrier bolt is about 4mm or 3/16" thick.
Question on the carrier bolt. Is that the one that goes on the underside of the support bracket? I think mine is missing the tit as well. I screwed the bolt back in but the axle still slid freely like it had no contact. I need to find that little piece.
 

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Here it is. less than $5 at the dealer, torque to 24 ft/lbs. Sometimes it will stick in the hole when the bolt is unscrewed , then it will fall out and roll away without you noticing .
F97B1BB9-5C16-49C3-A4F6-0C5D1C7A86E3.jpeg
2526037B-8917-48F3-8870-0DE25F29D8A2.jpeg
 
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