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Could someone please provide the link to part 2. I am going to attempt to change the front and rear disc brakes for the first time. The dealer wanted over $500. Thanks
 

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Wow: Slotted & cross-drilled rotors on a Sienna!

Just read thru it, and very nice job. In addition to what has already been said, if I might, I'd like to add just a couple of minor comments:


Step #5-6) If you have time, apply a little WD-40 at the hub where it meets the rotor and let it work in prior to whacking the rotor with a mallet. A ridge of corrosion develops here that quiet effectively 'cold welds' the parts together. You can also apply just a little to the base of the 5 lug studs to soak in behind the rotor. This is especially helpful if you do intend to turn the rotors and reuse them. There are also two 'drive-out' threaded spots on the rotor that help to push it away from the hub. Bolt size varies by mfgr.

When done, get as much off as possible from the studs before putting the wheels back on (lug nut torque spec is for 'clean/dry' threads). A comment on resurfacing - very difficult to do with slotted rotors! While there is some operational benefit to fancy rotors, they are more likely to end up being single use.

Step #8-9) When you take out the stainless steel pad slider springs, clean the channels in the carrier bracket well (I use a fine square file) and apply a very thin film of the high temp brake grease before snapping the new springs into place. This additional step also helps to prevent rust growth and pressure from causing pad binding and premature wear.

Step #12 ) Use a clean, new turkey baster to remove some of the brake fluid in the reservoir to keep it from overflowing when compressing the pistons. While a full brake bleed should be done to get rid of contaminated fluid, sucking out the reservoir and replacing this volume is at least a good partial step.

Step #13) I use a little of the anti-squeal compound between the pads, shims & piston to keep things from doing the high frequency vibration dance in the future. This step is a personal opinion thing... some hate the idea.
 

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Can someone please point me to the rear break tutorial, part 2 of this topic? I have searched everywhere to no avail. The link at the beginning of this thread takes me to the main forum, but no specific topic. I was able to find the thread through a google search, but the first post with all the pictures and write up were not shown. Any help would be appreciated or even a link to a write up from a different user. TIA!
 

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Last time i did mine - I already knew I was going to replace the rotors. So, before I took the Calipers off, I backed the bolts(guide pins) out almost all the way and used a large screwdriver to gently pry between the rotor and caliper. This pushed the piston back in before i even took the caliper off. Simple time saver.
 

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so how do I actually take the rotor out.
it mentioned there are two screws (that are no use by all mean) I just don't know how to take it out.
Sounds like use just drill through it? I am a bit confussed.
So in order to have the rotor out, we HAVE to drill out those two screws? How hard is it? Will a 18V drill works?
More help on this please :)
 

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Depending on the vehicle, there are one or two small philips head screws that hold the rotor to the hub. These are essential during auto assembly to keep the rotor firmly in place until the tires are installed sometime down the production line. After the wheels are torqued down and a little rust forms, the rotors stay in place. Before that, they are likely to fall off and break someone's foot!

As these screws are likely rusted in place, an air impact gun with a philips #2 or #3 bit will zip them out. Before I had air impact gear, I used a handheld hammer type impact driver. And before that my trusty all metal housing single speed 1/4" drill. Yes, I'm old... A little oil on the drill bit makes drilling easier and saves the bit. But if you are intending to reuse those rotors, tossing around oil might not be the best choice.

Other rotors I've encountered had two threaded spots for driving out the disk from the hub so that you didn't have to use a mallet to beat them off. Didn't see that on Javvy's pictures. On really stuck rotors, I had to apply a little bit of Kroil to the center hub interface and come back in an hour. I now apply a touch of anti-sieze to the spot before reassembly.
 

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Re: DIY: COMPLETE FRONT & REAR BRAKE JOB

Nice job! :)

And be careful not to breathe the brake dust...and wear eye protection.
Safety FIRST!!

I have split your original combined topic into 2 separate ones....Part 1 / FRONT & Part 2 / REAR.
Topsy, where did the rear brake topic go? The link does not work.
 

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I completed the front by replacing the rotors and pads.

The steps are pretty straight forward.
Remove 14MM bolts to remove pads.
Remove 17MM bolts and took out the rotors. Luckily the rotors weren't hold by the 2 bolts like somone mentioned, otherwise, I would have no idea how to drill it out.

I got the rotor and pads from Toyota. It took me a couple hours and I am happy with my DIY
 

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Thanks a lot for your post Javvy. I've used it twice for the front brakes already. It's almost time for me to do the rear brakes but the link in your post is not working. Do you know why? Thanks again!
 

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Thanks a lot for your post Javvy. I've used it twice for the front brakes already. It's almost time for me to do the rear brakes but the link in your post is not working. Do you know why? Thanks again!
You're not the first person to wonder: http://www.siennachat.com/forum/77-how-guides-do-yourself-instructions/10392-where-javvy-part-2-rear-disc-brake-thread.html

Unfortunately it's here: http://www.siennachat.com/forum/77-how-guides-do-yourself-instructions/5439-subject.html but the important post is missing, as Javvy himself asks: http://www.siennachat.com/forum/64-general-discussion/10391-2007-le-grinding-noise-rear-drivers-side-brakes-when-depressed.html#post76857

Sorry.
 

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Having done countless brake jobs, including 2 on our Sienna, I'd like to add a very important step. The brake pedal will go to the floor on the first push. Once both sides are done, start the vehicle and pump the pedal several times until it returns to it's orginal position before test driving!!

Also...just a tip: When reinserting the slide-pins make sure you DO NOT squeeze the air out of the boots. This will create a slight vacuum, not allowing the caliper to slide quite as freely. If the pins are lubed enough and there is air in the boots the pins will actually spring back on there own when pushed in. Just try it out before you install the caliper.
This tip is pretty crucial. I did my brake pads on an Odyssey (all 4 rotors) and then figuring "job well done" backed out of the spot I was working to clean it up and forgot totally about pumping the brakes back up (didn't bleed them this time). Almost backed into a concrete wall trying to get the pressure up.. thank God nobody was behind me! Sometimes you get rushed or tired and skip practical thought... but I hope to never make that mistake again. Is a touch scary.
 

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Whatever could possibly go wrong while doing this job yourself, went wrong when I did this job. It was actually comical. But we're good now...with the brakes. Now we have HID light, water pump, power steering fluid leak, and rear cat problems. Help!
 

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I am going to do my brake on this 07 I picked up back in Feb.
Wonder what is the torque spec on:
1) caliper pin bolt
2) caliper bracket bolt (need to take rotor out)
3) caliper brake line nut (might need to rebuild the rear L, it stuck)
 

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Hi folks,

Does anyone know where I can get a spare set of Rubber Rear handbrake adjuster plugs/gromits from? It's the little rubber plug on the rear discs that allows access to the handbrake shoe adjuster spindle - that little wheel that you need to turn with a flat screwdriver to adjust the handbrake pads so that you can get the disc off, if the disk is gripped by the pads. I was a bit heavy handed today after a brake test, and the rubber ripped. Now I don't want water getting in there.

Thanks!
Dave
 

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javvy, I know this is an old thread but based upon your pics, I see that you use drilled and slotted rotors, not the OEM rotors. Do you notice better stopping? If they are better, what brand do you use?
 
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