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Thanks very much - sure made my job easy!
I found the disk stuck to the hub and pounding didn't loosen it, so I ran two screws into the threaded holes in the old disk left for the purpose of loosening the disk. I turned the two bolts (same size as the bolts for removing the rear drums but I can't remember the size, sorry) until each clanked and the disk came loose. Hole marked with red arrow on this photo of the new disk:

I torqued the larger bolts on the caliper frame to 75 ft pounds and the smaller ones on the caliper to 35 ft pounds, a bit more than the guy on you tube does with his gen 1 Sienna disk brakes.

Easy job, no fooling around with brake fluid, nothing complicated at all. Worked fine right away, even before I put the wheel back on. About $100 CDN for one disk and a full set of pads.

My pads were replaced for the first time just last year at 230 000 km (country driving) with well above minimum thickness. Something must have failed or a stone got caught in the works this year because the front left brake started making a dragging noise all of a sudden and I found the inner pad was heavily worn on one end only and the inner side of the disk was also worn too much for my taste.

I used a floor jack to lift the front end of the 2004 CE so both wheels were clear of the ground. The engine turned the wheels at a reasonable speed with transmission in neutral. I do this every year when changing to summer tires and hold a chisel on the outer rim of each disk to scrape the rust off. Great this time for testing to make sure that darn dragging sound was gone and the brakes worked before putting the wheel on.

Don't forget to torque the wheel lugs! I torqued mine to 90 ft pounds, a bit too much to loosen with the wheel wrench that came with the van, and a bit less than the specified torque, I think. Works for me.
 

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I am trying to repair a caliper that had one guide pin frozen up and use the replacement guide pin + boot set to fix the caliper.

I have a question regarding the front brake caliper guide pins. On each set there are 2 guide pins and one of them has a slot cut near the tip and the other is a straight one (see attached photo 1). Another replacement set on Rock Auto also has a 2 straight guide pins set (see photo 2). (The original set on my 2006 Sienna AWD's front caliper has one straight and one tip-cut slot combination.) What is the difference and what is the purpose of the slot near the tip of the guide pin?

Also, the guide pin boot set on Rock Auto also includes 4 guide pin bushings (see photo 3). Where do these small bushing go on a caliper?
 

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I am tempted by these detailed DIY instructions to attempt a front rotors and pads replacement on my 2009 Sienna LE. Is there a reliable/recommended OEM parts store where I can purchase OEM parts. I would also like to compare prices as I live close to a Toyota dealer, and can buy from the dealer if the prices are the same. Appreciate any insights ... I would be a first time DIYer

Andy G
 

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chenxinghao - The first set of guide pins are what you need and the bushings. The picture may be wrong because you only need two. I recently bought a set of boots and bushing from Oreilly's Auto store showing a similar picture but it only came with two bushings. The slot is where the bushing sits in. Sometimes the bushings go bad and don't sit in the slot, so when you pull them out they are missing, when they are still in the caliper. Use a good lubricant for the guide pins like Sil-Glyde.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nSF4cyBK9c

puvat- Toyota of Dallas has good prices. I've bought from them before. http://parts.toyotaofdallas.com/
 

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Thank you, supra129, for the advice. This will be my DIY for the coming July 4th weekend.

I am still puzzled by the one guide pin needs a bushing and the other doesn't. What is the theory behind this configuration? The fact that Rock Auto (and other parts vendors such as Auto Zone) also sales a guide pin set (for the same Sienna year&model) that neither has the near tip cut slot makes me even more confused.

I also searched online about other Toyota models' brake repairs and some were talking about upper guide pin and lower guide pin. In this case, the guide pin with a bushing goes to which (upper or lower) guide hole?
 

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Just replaced both front rotors and pads with new clips tonight in about an hour. Easiest brake job ever so great job Toyota. Bought the geomet coated rotors and ceramic pads on eBay all for under $130 CDN made by Proforce. Drove it around to remove the antirust coating then bedded them in and they feel great. Wifey is pleased as at least one of the old rotors was warped and caused annoying pulsating braking. It's completely gone and braking is very uniform now. The ceramic pads actually have decent initial bite to them. Sorry for the dirty wheels!
 

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so how do I actually take the rotor out.
it mentioned there are two screws (that are no use by all mean) I just don't know how to take it out.
Sounds like use just drill through it? I am a bit confussed.
So in order to have the rotor out, we HAVE to drill out those two screws? How hard is it? Will a 18V drill works?
More help on this please
Thanks very much - sure made my job easy!
I found the disk stuck to the hub and pounding didn't loosen it, so I ran two screws into the threaded holes in the old disk left for the purpose of loosening the disk. I turned the two bolts (same size as the bolts for removing the rear drums but I can't remember the size, sorry) until each clanked and the disk came loose.
Fyi this bolt works in the rotor screw holes:



It took me only a few seconds to free each rotor from the hub.
 

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The car had a bad intermittent steering vibration at highway speeds.

Brought it in for a wheel balance, and it turns out the tires were fairly unevenly worn. So I replaced them with new Bridgestone DriveGuard ... vibration at speed is gone.

However, still a bad intermittent steering vibration upon braking at freeway speeds. Warped rotors ...

So I purchased and installed Toyota OEM front rotors and pads ... all vibration gone now :)

There is still the question on whether or not the rack bushings are shot ... but I still wait to see if the vibration comes back. There is some movement in the rack bushings, but not looseness. Maybe that's just normal operation.

Turning my attention to the (aftermarket) rotors that I just removed, I noticed this on the inside face of the rotors:





Is that from the car sitting parked for lengthy amounts of time? (we don't use this car for a few weeks at a time) Or is this indicative of caliper pins needing cleaning and regreasing? I did exercise the caliper pins a bit when I installed the new brakes, they were tough to move, but they did move. And the ones I pulled out on one side were still lubed up.

Or is this just cheap aftermarket rotors (that the Indy before me installed)?

I am curious as to what this is.

Thanks. John
 

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Fyi I did clean and regrease the caliper pins on the front this weekend, including replacing the rubber bushings (purchased a Carlson 16078 kit from RockAuto) on the two bottom pins and using Sil-Glyde on all pins.

The pins were fairly hard to move coming out, so I am thinking that they were not greased correctly, leading to the caliper not providing even pressure on the pads, resulting in the warped rotor feel as well as the rough finish on the inside faces.

The Sil-Glyde looks and feels just like silicone grease you would get in the faucet aisle at the hardware store, except that it's a bit amber in color, and I assume is meant to withstand high temps. Autozone sell the tiny packets for $1.50 each, and one packet will easily cover four pins.

I still used Cerami-Glide or regular caliper lubricant for the edges of the pads.
 

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Great instructions. I had no problem replacing front brakes on 2008 sienna FWD. Note many of the auto shops have tools you can borrow/loan. I got the disc caliper tool and Torque Wrench from O-Reillys and tighened the bolts per spec. Spent less than 2 hours to replace rotors and pads. Other tip is to use a bolt in the threaded holes of the rotor. When you tighten the bold, rotors come off easily; not need to use a mallet or soft hammer.
 

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A couple comments on slotted and drilled rotors on a Sienna. I have a lovely 2002 Sienna parked in the US because of Mexican law changes last year. It has 220,000 miles, some of it over 11 years of driving in Mexico.

I am slowed down now, but when that 2002 was newer, I did some hard driving at times. There is a hard stretch north of Puebla, with big speed bumps every so far. The only way to make any time is go full throttle after the speed bump, brake hard for the next speed bump, then do it all over again.

I was coming back from the border to my home, and suddenly I had no brakes at all on one of those speed bumps. For you young guys who are used to disc brakes, this is called brake fade and was common on drum brakes in the old days.

Scared me pretty bad. I hadn't experienced fade in a very long time. I talked to my son-in-law and he got me slotted and drilled rotors. No more fade.

He now has the slotted and drilled rotors on his Odyssey and also on his wifes. She is very proud of her racing rotors. :D
 

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Fyi this bolt works in the rotor screw holes:



It took me only a few seconds to free each rotor from the hub.
Excellent! I attempted to do the brakes on my wife's '04 Sienna 170K miles on original rotors. I pounded and pounded but couldn't get the rotor loose (no screws by the way). I'm gonna give this a try.
Thanks
Stan
 

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Many part stores loan tools. I got the brake tools, torque wrenches as loaner from local parts store, followed instructions here and did front and rear brake job. I put drilled/slotted rotors and very happy with the outcome of my job. Money spent on all 4 wheels job (with rotors/brake pads/hardware/store supplies) is approximately $240.00. I spent 3-4 to finish the whole job on a weekend.
 

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I put drilled/slotted rotors and very happy with the outcome of my job. Money spent on all 4 wheels job (with rotors/brake pads/hardware/store supplies) is approximately $240.00. I spent 3-4 to finish the whole job on a weekend.
Wow. I would really like to know where you found all those parts for $240!! Please tell us where we can find them for that price...for all 4 wheels!
 
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