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I have been living with a broken cable assembly for some time, but now my door ajar light comes on ONLY when the key is turned off!! This drains my battery overnight. Has anyone else experienced this? I have taken apart the door and confirmed that both cables and the housing are broke. Will this cause the door ajar light to come on once the vehicle is turned off? I have worked around this by pulling the DCC Short in the fuse box but this disables the navigation/stereo, door locks, and interior lights. I have replaced all door jamb switches and even the body ECU but cannot seem to fix the problem.
 
This door problem seems to be pretty rampant. How about a recall, Toyota? Neither of my doors on my 2005 Sienna will open. I can't even make them into manual doors because 1. I can't open them, 2. the handle is hooked to an electronic motor that won't work. I've watched the YouTube videos on how to take the door apart and replace the motor that runs the latch for the handle but, you have to be able to get the door open in the first place as I see it. Plus, I'M NOT A MECHANIC! I BOUGHT A TOYOTA SO THAT I DIDN'T NEED TO BE A MECHANIC. I find it hard to believe that this otherwise great running van is almost useless to us because of these doors. We have kids and piling them through the front seats is not fun. Plus, there's a safety issue if they had to get out of the van and couldn't. Someone from Toyota, please respond.

BTW, I had this to a Toyota dealership who said they fixed the doors - they opened about twice each and now are right back to where they were - both cannot be opened.
 
I need help. I went on vacation and when I got back both sliding doors will not open with the remote the handle or the buttons inside I've made sure that the button under the steering wheel is in the on position I tried to disconnect the battery hopefully to reset the system that didn't work either. Both child locks are off both doors are unlocked the car is in park and since it is happening to both doors it doesn't seem like it would be a mechanical issue. Any ideas? I've looked through a lot of posts and tried a lot just getting desperate now.
 
Ok - Dealer quoted me $1350 - was about $800 parts (cable assembly ~800 and hinge ~200) and 4 hr labor (120/hr). I am about 8-9 weeks after my the extended warranty for the sliding door ended do to in-service date as I only 92k miles. Dealer would not cut me a break. Said calling Toyota would most likely not be worth it but to mention any history I have with Toyota (how many I own, etc). Any other tips for dealing with them? Any chance they will cut me a break on this?
 
The passenger sliding door wire just snapped on my 2009 Sienna. Dealer quoted $2000 for the repair citing $1300 for parts.
I'm about to embark upon John's repair job:

http://www.shareyourrepair.com/2014...01/how-to-replace-the-power-sliding-door-cables-2004-207-toyota-sienna-xle.html

Online, I see online two replacement options available.

a) The OEM part ($470 http://goo.gl/HMd5dl ) and
b) the "upgraded" swivel replacement ($230 on Amazon http://goo.gl/fVqpnv )

Does anyone know if the cheaper Amazon replacement includes the wheel pulley? I suspect pieces of mine may have shattered as pieces fell out after the door was used with the wire snapped (wife said it made noises and left the plastic pieces on the seat). It appears to be the wheel pulley. I don't want to blow $230 on the cheaper part only to find it's missing what's needed. The wheel pulley alone is being sold on ebay for $65 ( http://goo.gl/Ek6nTF )

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I'll attach pics of both parts. If anyone knows if the cheaper one includes the pulley wheel, please let me know. Thanks!

OEM:
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Amazon replacement: (picture has the words Front/Back)
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Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

~Rolan
 

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Ok - Dealer quoted me $1350 - was about $800 parts (cable assembly ~800 and hinge ~200) and 4 hr labor (120/hr). I am about 8-9 weeks after my the extended warranty for the sliding door ended do to in-service date as I only 92k miles. Dealer would not cut me a break. Said calling Toyota would most likely not be worth it but to mention any history I have with Toyota (how many I own, etc). Any other tips for dealing with them? Any chance they will cut me a break on this?
call the corporate office. they are pretty aware of the non stop issue with the power door assembly. nothing to loose. just don't be aggressive on the phone. let them know that your dealer does not willing with you on any deal even you re few weeks after extended warranty. they may be able to re-compensate for part of the repair. good luck and let us know the outcome.
 
I repaired mine using the kit from Rockauto.com (only $190 by the way), I don't think it had the pulley. Either way, if you had to buy the $65 pulley also, it would still be cheaper than buying the parts from the dealership. Of course the part from the dealership looks like it has the motor and pulley all assembled and therefore could be a simpler process if that's worth it for you. The extra cost of the dealership part may be simply that the motor is included, which then is not a horrible deal, if you wanted or needed to also replace the motor that is.
 
Hi folks 1st time post here,I have a 06 XLE that one door the right side will not open from in or out,I got it open by taking the door handle cover off enough to trip the mechanism so I could get the the 2 screws. Does anyone know what the part is needed to fix this so the latch will open properly,Yes it does have the power doors but I have them disabled. the door that wont open has a white piece of plastic missing as compared to the left side..So looking for a part number like a RS Door latch assembly etc...The 2 pics show the one with the white piece which is the one that works,and the one with ho white pice that doesnt work.
 

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Another plug for John's write up on taking the side power door apart http://www.shareyourrepair.com. Since only my cable snapped and didn't damage anything through the pulley unit, I opted to install just the cable & cover replacement kit from maampartsusa2012 off of eBay.
There are YouTube videos of re-stringing the pulley unit, but as others have stated- after looking at the opposite side and looking at the cable pathways- it is pretty straightforward how the cables route through the pulleys. The new cables and cover were of good quality, correct colors with black toward the back and white cable forward. Crimping on the cable tabs was simple and a dremel shaped the tab to fit into the slots on the reel. Placing the wound drum onto the motor arm was easy when the cables were kept taught. Took an afternoon, didn't rush and saved a pile of cash.
I was at the Toyota dealership for some brake pads and inquired the price to repair the power door unit. After picking myself up from the floor, it was $1,485 just for the part because they will not separate the motor unit from the pulley unit. Labor was $169/hr- I didn't ask the Service Desk what the whole job would run, but it had to be pretty steep. :-o.
Been a few weeks and it has been rock solid.
 
I own a 2008 sienna LE. On two occasions opening the sliding door has damaged the wing vent window and mounting. The first was in 2011. The door popped the driver side window out of the mounting and and the second a few days ago only on the passenger side. Same scenerio, however the window remained attached to the armature. Anyone have any idea what would cause that. In both instances the windows were closed.
Charged $525 for the first and it will be over $600 for the most recent
 
Hi folks 1st time post here,I have a 06 XLE that one door the right side will not open from in or out,I got it open by taking the door handle cover off enough to trip the mechanism so I could get the the 2 screws. Does anyone know what the part is needed to fix this so the latch will open properly,Yes it does have the power doors but I have them disabled. the door that wont open has a white piece of plastic missing as compared to the left side..So looking for a part number like a RS Door latch assembly etc...The 2 pics show the one with the white piece which is the one that works,and the one with ho white pice that doesnt work.
Seems you and I have the same problem. The white plastic clip/pin working the mechanism is broke. So far, I see no way to replace besides the complete control sub-assembly from dealer (retail $125)
How did you make out with this problem?

I also suspect one of the latches sticking that might have lead to "premature" failure after 11 years. lol.

Yan
 
We have a 'popping' noise (or stickiness?) at the rear latch of the sliding door when opening with a button or the handle on our 2004 Sienna XLE. It seems like the door sticks a split second, releases (the popping noise) and then jerks back as opening. I'm afraid the extra stress will take a toll on the new pulley I put in:-( Here's a video of the door in action:

I just finished John's write up and replaced the sliding door pulley assembly and also replaced the center hinge. The center hinge was paramount to actually being able to open the door.

We were quoted well over $2500 for the repair of the door w/ parts/labor and decided not to use the door for over a year. The video here also helped:

Wondering if anyone has come across that popping noise? I heard there might be a latch adjustment, but was hoping someone could identify it...
 
I have a Sienna 2004 limited. One morning all the powered doors (sliding and hatch door) woke up dead and I can only open them manually. Whatever button i choose it doesn't do anything.
Took it to a garage, but they aren't really sure what it could be. When connecting a scanner to the car they could send a signal to the sliding door and you can hear the lock unlocking (using the buttons not even this is working) but after that it won't open the door. Took it later to the Toyota dealer but they say all the motors got broke, which sounds strange to me as it happened all (sliding and hatchdoors) at the same time, also the other garage told me the motors were fine.
Any thoughts about what it could be?
 
Hey guys, I have an issue with my sienna door driver side. For some reason, it opens 1/16 of the way and it seems to hit something at the bottom. It would stop at a certain point and I am not sure if this is a malfunction of the cables or what not. It seems to be stuck at the bottom roller part.
 
Is your fuel door closed all the way? When the fuel door is open, a mechanism will pop out preventing the sliding door from opening very far so that you don't damage the fuel door.
 
n8dogg, thank you man, that is the problem! The little spring popped out of place. Super easy fix.

On another note, wife just informed me that the passenger sliding door sometimes would open, stop, then close without fully opening. Any clues to this one?
 
Glad I can help! As far as the other door, one common problem could be the cable breaking down. You can see the cable in the track right below the rear window. The sheathing on the cable breaks down, comes off, and then the cable itself becomes corroded and eventually breaks. Before it completed breaks, one symptom is the sheathing that has broken off gets all gunked up in the pulley. or spool, of the door actuator motor. Eventually the pulley itself will sometimes break. Huge pain in the rear with many pages in this forum dedicated to the rebuilding of this part. If your cable is in good shape then consider yourself lucky! Don't know what else it could be though.
 
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