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Wow, quite a post. Like post #130, I wish someone could go through here and trim out all the fluff, so that finding a solution would be a little easier.

Long story short, automating some things are tough, so there's a lot of things to go wrong here. In my case it looks to be the middle hinge. But if any electrical or mechanical things go out, or things like that cable sheathing or even ice, if there's already a weakened cable it could snap. Personally while I didn't like the powered door at first (grew up with an '86 caravan, that while it's non-powered doors worked just fine, it had plenty of other much more major issues before getting to 120k), it is a nice feature. But as my kids are getting older, it may just convert to a manual door.

Our door started acting up a year and a half ago, when opening it on a slope on a camping trip. It slowly got worse, and we noticed it wasn't having the normal "lock into place" at the end of opening. Eventually I looked into this more, and it happened both opening it with power or manually, and I saw that I could get it to "lock open" depending on how much force I applied and where I applied it. Reading the FSM, and looking at the spacing gaps around the door, it looked to be just a little out of alignment. Adjusting it at the middle hinge fixed it, along with lubing things up. That was 4-6 months ago.

But it's started happening again, occasionally. And reading up more, it looks like the worst thing for us is the middle hinge wearing out, getting some play at the hinge pin. Signs of this include a little bit of paint scraping and trim wear, and being able to lift the door to see the play. Pick-n-pull had a Sienna that had been a taxi, and while it didn't have the trailer hitch that I wanted, it seemed like the middle slider hinge was in good shape. Looks like it's been replaced at least once (part of the metal was unpainted), and possibly twice (some welding splatter on the top of the pin, so I think they replaced the pin). Anyways, for $15 I figure it was well worth it. I can put it in, and then have my old one that I can replace the pin in it if I ever need to replace this a second time.

Once this is all done, I might have to replace an actuator at some point, but it could be with it aligned properly it will be fine.

The door is complicated, and if any of the parts of it fail it can cause it to stop working, or to make other parts fail. If you're diagnosing this, look at your problems and history carefully. "my door stopped working" isn't enough info. And remember that in most cases you can convert it over to a manual door, though it's a lot easier to do that if it's still partially working.
 
This one is a little different. The power door opens and closes fine (for now) but it does not respond to the the door handles. It will mechanically unlatch but not immediately move under power. You have to pull the door a little and then the power takes over. Opening and closing with the buttons works fine.

I am guessing that the problem is with an electrical switch in the door handle but wanted to see if anyone else has this problem before I start buying parts.

Thanks
Stan
 
Hi, Im hoping to get some assistance. We have a 2004 Sienna XLE and both power sliding doors work but there is a big GAP when closed. Its here the door edge frame meets the frame. As if it is not locked but it is. Its on both sides.
Is there a way to fix this or anyone know what is causing this issue? Is it the hinge wearing out?
 
Changing the "Slide Door Lock Release Motor Assy". Broke the small purple plastic piece that holds the shaft to the "Slide Door Lock Remote Control Sub-assy LH" Any chance this has happened to others? Anybody know of a part number? The new "Slide Door Lock Release Motor Assy" did not come with the part.

I have attached three photos to give perspective. I compressed them quite a bit but when uploading they seemed huge.
 

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TO ALL SLIDING DOOR ISSUES ON TOYOTA SIENNA
complain to the nat'l highway transportation safety admin, nhtsa, and spread the word to have others complain too. force a recall. this IS a safety issue. mine is a 2010 sienna xle fwd - the problem is a cable failure that pulls the door open. mine opened about 7 inches then stopped as if it hit something. had to break the cable to get door open. Sorry this is a safety issue
 
I've already repaired one power sliding door due to the broken cable, thanks to all the help on this forum! But now the second door has broken. I ordered a new cable from RockAuto. The only problem is that you're expected to re-use the spool in the motor. Well this time the spool was destroyed! I cant find a source for the spool. Any one know where to find one?
 
I have a 2008 LE Sienna, and the passenger power sliding door has a problem which is a little bit different than most power sliding doors have. The symptoms are:

1. The door's power DOES NOT RESPOND to the door handles for opening or closing UNLESS I move the door a little, then the power starts and takes over.

2. The door responded to the key fob and the electric buttons, HOWEVER, wouldn't open or close UNLESS I UNLATCH IT MANUALLY by grabbing one of the door's handles.

3. I removed the door panel and I the latch actuator does not receive power when I push any of the electric buttons.

I'm wondering if the problem from the door ECU or the door needs to be reset or there is something else!

Any one have any idea or suggestions?

Thank you
 
I just replaced my center hinge on the non-powered drivers side door. It rides higher now and doesn't scrape the paint! Now however, the rear of the door doesn't seem to close and fit "flush" with the panel behind. Since the door doesn't close pull all the way in like it should, the rear latch is very tight and the handle is very hard to pull. When I do pull it hard enough, there is a loud "pop" when that rear latch releases. Is there an adjustment or something I should look at? It almost seems like the hinge is slightly bent or something, but it is a Toyota part, so I can't be the first with this issue.
 
Recently our 2010 Sienna had an issue with the right-side power sliding door. The dealer wanted $2500 to repair it all, despite us being very long time customers and being just 340 miles out of warranty but time-wise, we were IN warranty. We went back and forth for weeks, finally I called the Toyota HQ in Texas. You can not imagine how cooperative the dealership was after they got a call from the HQ ! The dealership repaired the door at NO CHARGE! Whooo- AHHH.
Moral of the story- stand up for your rights, don't take NO for an answer, and make noise! Fight fight fight for what you are entitled!!!
 
I purchased a new Door Assembly Kit because by cable broke. When I opened the door, i found the spool also broken. Where can I pick up a new spool? I am looking everywhere!
Same here...so far I've found nothing. I pulled the guts and now have to open the door manually and it doesn't like being opened manually very well either!
 
Any instructions on how to wrap the cables around the spool? My spool is OK, just the cables rusted and snapped. The replacement part did not come with a new spool so I need to reuse the one i have. All the instructions I've found so far all assume you have a spool already would with the cables.

Thanks!
 
We were on vacation this June when we heard a clunk and grinding sound as the driver’s side sliding door was closing on our 2007 LE. Thanks to this site I immediately knew what had happened. I had a multi tool in the glove box and cut the cables so we could use the door manually.


So, it’s now December and I finally had time to make the repair. When I took the door panel off I discovered that the spool cover had disintegrated and the spool had a crack as well. I decided the old part was too far gone to fix so I ordered a new part from Toyota and got it installed using John’s writeup on Share Your Repair. They are fantastic directions and make the repair doable for most people. Driver’s side complete! Thanks John!

Then it was time to tackle the passenger side. Although it was still working ok it was only a matter of time before those cables snapped too. I opted to order just the aftermarket cables from the guy on eBay (Maampartsusa2012). It took alot of patience and paying very close attention to the routing of the cables on the spool and through the pulley system but I got it done and it works great.

Advice for anyone who orders the aftermarket cables from the guy on eBay. The cable stops he provides are brittle. I don’t have a proper crimping tool so I used a hammer and a Dremel to get them the right shape to fit in the spool. It would help if you use a proper crimping tool.

I would not recommend trying to use replacement cables unless you have an eye for detail and a lot of patience. As someone who installed both a new OEM part and just the aftermarket cables I can say it is definitely easier using a new part. The new OEM part is about $350 from Toyota and the aftermarket cables are about $65 from the guy on eBay.
 
Several people above commented that they were looking for directions on how to wrap the cables around the spool.

I took a few photos when I dismantled the passenger side door. They aren’t the greatest but may help someone understand what the spool looks like with the cables wound around it.

And for the guy who was looking for a new spool - maampartsusa2012 on eBay sells an aftermarket one. I can’t comment on the quality of the one he sells but I can say that his aftermarket cables were the correct length and worked great for me.
 

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I bought another Sienna today. An 09. I am assuming the cable has been cut. The right door slides as easily as a manual one. If I push the button it unlatches & you can hear the motor running but the door does not move. I Tried it from closed , from open, & from 1/2 open. No movement. Not sure I am prepared to deal with it but really want the door to work. If parts are to expensive & if they are the same I do have the 05 but hate to go that way.
 
I got only 2 years out of a Dorman aftermarket cable replacement. So cheap though, on Rockauto anyway, that I could replace it a few times for the cost of dealer OEM. Plus I think I'm nearing the end of owning this vehicle so I don't need it to last forever...
 
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