[22Ranger]

Off to the fastener store this morning. I’m gonna attempt to do this or some variation of it. Thank you for the detailed photos. Turns out the shock extenders from traxda won’t work. They supply a 1” x 3/8” spacer with 1/4” hole. When placed on the shock piston the OD won’t clear a foam yellowish or rubber insulator up inside the plastic guard. And when place on the outside above the shock assembly the hole is too narrow to slip over silver the sleeve that extends upwards into the car body mount. I installed the Monroe shocks you mentioned. I think the length is perfect but to me they are too soft. I’m not sure if heavy duty shocks come oem on my 19 AWD but compared to them they have a lot less resistance and a much quicker travel. With the Monroe’s I can move the rear of my car with very little downward force and practically no effort. Gonna try and make use of the OEM’s before I settle with the Monroe’s. The number on the side of my Toyota shock body is 48531-08060 and measures 27 3/4” resting.

Very interesting. If you check out that drawing I sent them on this question, you’ll see I didn’t really get a satisfactory answer. Something must have changed since they spec'd those spacers out.

But, the 5/8” zinc washers on top can buy you 3/8”.

In theory these shocks only dampen the compression and rebound with the springs controlling the rate. But if the Monroe shock’s dampening is significantly less, then it would probably compress and rebound in a “softer” manner.

I suppose I never tried the Monroe shocks with OEM springs. I only put them on after the stiffer/taller rear springs created the top out problem.

 

[YotaSE17]

Very interesting. If you check out that drawing I sent them on this question, you’ll see I didn’t really get a satisfactory answer. Something must have changed since they spec'd those spacers out.

But, the 5/8” zinc washers on top can buy you 3/8”.

In theory these shocks only dampen the compression and rebound with the springs controlling the rate. But if the Monroe shock’s dampening is significantly less, then it would probably compress and rebound in a “softer” manner.

I suppose I never tried the Monroe shocks with OEM springs. I only put them on after the stiffer/taller rear springs created the top out problem.

Yeah, it’s a about how the spring and shock behave together...
The Traxda shock extension is still in its developmental stage and the part they are sending out didn’t work. I’d guess the difference to be 5/16” shorter with 3 washers when comparing the length to the Monroe shocks. That length isn’t considering the two rubber bushings Monroe uses as their mount and how much they compress compared to the thin Toyota one. The Monroe shock has softer dampening and quicker rebound. I could have used it as an arm exercise toy. Ha! The van drove nice, soft, and smooth with the Monroe’s but I think the firmer the better in protecting the driveline parts and suspension. Especially since I’m gonna be going with bigger tires and driving it in light off-road situations. I have been thinking of shaving the top rubber bushing and adding another washer or two if I need a little more length but it might be good enough as is. Hopefully my lift is going in tomorrow and I’ll be able to test it.

 

[YotaSE17]

 

[22Ranger]

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With the washers, you will probably be fine 90% of the time. I think the real world measurements folks have been posting for the Traxda are typically less than the 2.25” I ended up with from the CSS springs.

Do you have plans to use airbags? Since you always run a little air in them, they may have a general dampening effect.

 

[YotaSE17]

With the washers, you will probably be fine 90% of the time. I think the real world measurements folks have been posting for the Traxda are typically less than the 2.25” I ended up with from the CSS springs.

Do you have plans to use airbags? Since you always run a little air in them, they may have a general dampening effect.

I may put bags in but I don’t typically run a load. I’m starting in the rear at 31” high in the drivers side, 31 1/4” on the other. Most are starting at closer to 30” so the extra height may cause more top out issues...
BTW we talked before about the drivers slide slump. I’m thinking im gonna ask the lift installer to switch the rear springs from side to side. I checked with Toyota, same part number...

 

[22Ranger]

I may put bags in but I don’t typically run a load. I’m starting in the rear at 31” high in the drivers side, 31 1/4” on the other. Most are starting at closer to 30” so the extra height may cause more top out issues...
BTW we talked before about the drivers slide slump. I’m thinking im gonna ask the lift installer to switch the rear springs from side to side. I checked with Toyota, same part number...

That is interesting yours is a full inch higher to start. You may end up similar to my height and thus have some more top out. It seems like the slump must be from vehicle weight (gas tank?). I still have a 3/4”ish slump with new springs.

Hope the install goes well! Sounds like having a shop do it on an AWD is a good call. The FWD wasn’t too bad.

 

[YotaSE17]

That is interesting yours is a full inch higher to start. You may end up similar to my height and thus have some more top out. It seems like the slump must be from vehicle weight (gas tank?). I still have a 3/4”ish slump with new springs.

Hope the install goes well! Sounds like having a shop do it on an AWD is a good call. The FWD wasn’t too bad.

It was a bit of a rough day... Front was plug and play. 2" spacer, close to 2" of lift. But, i'm definitely going to need sway bar links as the stock ones rest on the control arm at max wheel extension (droop). The god speed adjustable at close max length should do the trick.
In the rear, the traxda spacers didn't fit. Not even close. I called traxda on the spot. I dont think I can long distance engineer a set of spacers to spec. Might be a 2019 issue with the spring housing. So now lifted in the front. low in the rear pre-runneer style. i'm about 1" to 1 1/4" low in the back. I would like to get the rear at least 1" higher and up to aroiund 32ish inches total. Id go higher but Im trying to avoid rear top out, camber/toe, and potentially messing up my new front alignment by putting the back high and affecting it. My options are an airbag lift which I dont even know if they make one that will work, a small spacer if i can find one that will work, or custom coils. I'm tempted to go custom coils but I want the height to turn out where I want it. Just got off the phone with coil spring specialties. The owner talks big and says he can the height exactly where I want it. What do you think of CSS or the options?

 

[22Ranger]

It was a bit of a rough day... Front was plug and play. 2" spacer, close to 2" of lift. But, i'm definitely going to need sway bar links as the stock ones rest on the control arm at max wheel extension (droop). The god speed adjustable at close max length should do the trick.
In the rear, the traxda spacers didn't fit. Not even close. I called traxda on the spot. I dont think I can long distance engineer a set of spacers to spec. Might be a 2019 issue with the spring housing. So now lifted in the front. low in the rear pre-runneer style. i'm about 1" to 1 1/4" low in the back. I would like to get the rear at least 1" higher and up to aroiund 32ish inches total. Id go higher but Im trying to avoid rear top out, camber/toe, and potentially messing up my new front alignment by putting the back high and affecting it. My options are an airbag lift which I dont even know if they make one that will work, a small spacer if i can find one that will work, or custom coils. I'm tempted to go custom coils but I want the height to turn out where I want it. Just got off the phone with coil spring specialties. The owner talks big and says he can the height exactly where I want it. What do you think of CSS or the options?

Oh no! That is a tough spot. Yes, I believe something changed in the rear end in 17’ or 18’. I think the Timberan system only supports up to 16’ because the spring seat is different.

CSS was good to work with, Mr Crane does sound quite confident. I was definitely not impressed when they admitted that they had accidentally spec’d my springs for independent rear suspension. He said they do Siennas “all the time” and I had got them all the OEM PN#s.

They offered to fix mine or send new ones and give refund on originals.

At full 35psi the air lift provides minimal lift and would ride really rough. I think I actually knocked my back end out of alignment when I clobbered a pot hole with them at full PSI and unloaded.

My 2 cents would be go with the CSS for 1-1/2” lift and use the Monroe shocks. If you opt for a slightly stiffer spring rate/weight capacity I bet the Monroes wouldn’t feel soft anymore and you’d eliminate top out. The CSS have a progressive spring rate (stiffer with more compression) and they claim the OEMs are not.

But, production was a solid 4 weeks...

 

[YotaSE17]

Oh no! That is a tough spot. Yes, I believe something changed in the rear end in 17’ or 18’. I think the Timberan system only supports up to 16’ because the spring seat is different.

CSS was good to work with, Mr Crane does sound quite confident. I was definitely not impressed when they admitted that they had accidentally spec’d my springs for independent rear suspension. He said they do Siennas “all the time” and I had got them all the OEM PN#s.

They offered to fix mine or send new ones and give refund on originals.

At full 35psi the air lift provides minimal lift and would ride really rough. I think I actually knocked my back end out of alignment when I clobbered a pot hole with them at full PSI and unloaded.

My 2 cents would be go with the CSS for 1-1/2” lift and use the Monroe shocks. If you opt for a slightly stiffer spring rate/weight capacity I bet the Monroes wouldn’t feel soft anymore and you’d eliminate top out. The CSS have a progressive spring rate (stiffer with more compression) and they claim the OEMs are not.

But, production was a solid 4 weeks...

Thanks for the airlift info. I can cross that one out. So CSS admitted they built u the wrong spring, which somehow gives me a little hope that they really know what will work in a sienna and is the right spring? Hmm. Odd logic I know. 300 bucks in coils and 150-200 labor, not so fun gambling on what these guys know. AWD coil install was painful to watch. It took 3 guys, spring compressors, pry bars, and some muscle just to get the factory coil back in without any spacers. Definitely won’t be attempting it on my own.

 

[22Ranger]

Thanks for the airlift info. I can cross that one out. So CSS admitted they built u the wrong spring, which somehow gives me a little hope that they really know what will work in a sienna and is the right spring? Hmm. Odd logic I know. 300 bucks in coils and 150-200 labor, not so fun gambling on what these guys know. AWD coil install was painful to watch. It took 3 guys, spring compressors, pry bars, and some muscle just to get the factory coil back in without any spacers. Definitely won’t be attempting it on my own.

No, I getcha. CSS seemS to generally know their stuff. Yea my understanding is the the AWD drive train limits how far the torsion beam can drop during installation.

On my FWD, the OEM springs almost fell out when I dropped the torsion beam. It was a fight to get the taller springs in with a spring compressor. Even a 1/2” of space and I doubt I could have physical done it.

 

[Brokenbohns]

An update to the instructions?
I just installed these today. 2019 SEP fwd. looks like they changed the instructions (or everyone feels they know better?). Clearly states the disk and fill lines facing down. Saw on some reviews where the lines were being crushed against the body and cracking. I guess this is the fix... hang em in road hazards way?

 

[22Ranger]

An update to the instructions?
I just installed these today. 2019 SEP fwd. looks like they changed the instructions (or everyone feels they know better?). Clearly states the disk and fill lines facing down. Saw on some reviews where the lines were being crushed against the body and cracking. I guess this is the fix... hang em in road hazards way?
[/QUOTE

I’ve heard of the AirLift bags being installed both way. The coil seats for rear suspension did change in 17’ or 18’. So there may be a good reason for it.

I installed them lines up in an 06’ and this 16’ and routed them the same way (through the top of the spring seat, along the brake lines and down to the rocker panels) with no issues.

 

[Brokenbohns]

Not vehicle specific instructions though.
Putt em out the bottom and they don’t move. Put em out the top and they do. Seems not many people were having problems, but those that were... pinched bags at bottom and broken lines at top.

 

[22Ranger]

Not vehicle specific instructions though.
Putt em out the bottom and they don’t move. Put em out the top and they do. Seems not many people were having problems, but those that were... pinched bags at bottom and broken lines at top.

I will say, if I ran lines out the bottom of the coil seat, I would have torn the lines.

I drug one of the coil seats hard on a low shoulder recently.

 

[Brokenbohns]

I will say, if I ran lines out the bottom of the coil seat, I would have torn the lines.

I drug one of the coil seats hard on a low shoulder recently.

Yea that’s the paradox. You have to put the buffer at the bottom... for arguments sake and as I’ve seen em pinch flat on the bottom. You have to rout air though the buffer ring. At the same time. I didn’t call tech support. It’s different than EVERYONE out there, and very specific in the instructions, which are not vehicle specific, but they’re really quite close to all the same.
that’s why I posted. I don’t like the dragging part. Especially in my “camping rig” but then again. Pretty hard to hit the suspension. The tire is pretty close.

 

[floridanative]

In my gen2, the upper spring seat had a large hole in the middle, so it was a no brainer for me to orient and route the air lines (and plastic spacer) out the top and safe. Never had a problem with the air line or connection. I left enough slack above the spring seat to allow for some movement, but not enough that it could get pinched.

-Mike

 

[Brokenbohns]

In my gen2, the upper spring seat had a large hole in the middle, so it was a no brainer for me to orient and route the air lines (and plastic spacer) out the top and safe. Never had a problem with the air line or connection. I left enough slack above the spring seat to allow for some movement, but not enough that it could get pinched.

-Mike

Well not so much pinched as the supplied hoses are junk. Harden up and crack. The suspension boxes generally are pretty much the same top and bottom. Hole in the middle.

it makes sense to put the buffer at the bottom I guess. The bag should never touch the top.

 

[22Ranger]

Yea no issues here with the top routing. I’m realizing now that I actually had two different AirLift/Coil set ups on the 16’.

I’ve spoken with AirLift tec support about the Sienna product several times and they had no issue with the top route. They actually sold me a second spacer to run on the bottom with the original kit.

I’ve got enough room with the CSS Coils I could probably have spacers on both sides. However, the ends really don’t seem to take much wear. The “mating surface” is really the interior of the coils and the sides of the bags. They really don’t seem to be designed to carry much of the load on the ends.

 

[Indoyota]

Hey, 22Ranger, what would i have to do to get the same springs as you? Planning on taking a cross-country trip next Oct and will be pulling a travel trailer. Thanks.

 

[22Ranger]

Sounds like a fun trip! Do you have a weight distribution hitch? It will effect how much of an increase in weight capacity you want/need from the springs.

If you call CSS, they have quite a few questions they run through to help you sort out your needs. You’ll need the VIN specific springs part number from Toyota to provide to them.

Feel free to reference my order #35378 with them. And here are the specs I requested:
+1.5” unloaded (stock height loaded)
+425lbs capacity

I actually ended up with +2.25” unloaded which necessitated the shock replacement referenced in this post. Ride has still been great, no issues unloaded and tows like a dream when I pump up the AirLift.

Good luck!

Hey, 22Ranger, what would i have to do to get the same springs as you? Planning on taking a cross-country trip next Oct and will be pulling a travel trailer. Thanks.