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So if I am reading everything correctly the 2010 Models do not have the rubber VVT Lines?.
 
Assuming everything we think we know, they should not have rubber VVTi lines. But if it has an oil cooler, those lines will likely be rubber and still a 'threat'.
 
The bullietin says they replace the rubber hose with another rubber hose, they do not replace the entire line with a solid steel line. Has anyone had the service done where they replace the whole thing with a steel oil line?
 
The bullietin says they replace the rubber hose with another rubber hose, they do not replace the entire line with a solid steel line. Has anyone had the service done where they replace the whole thing with a steel oil line?
For the vvti recall, they use a different rubber hose and don't think there's any known failures of this. Meanwhile, there's a steel only version which I'd opt for. I have the recall line.

For the oil cooler line tsb when active, not sure what they use or if there's a rubber line even available. I have solid steel line here
 
Correct. The VVTi replacement is a fluorinated rubber (like Viton) that is not degraded by blowby gases. I originally had mine replaced with the new rubber, but later had it replaced with the all-steel alternative once I figured out the part number for the later years and that it was fully compatible.

The oil cooler hybrid assemblies were replaced with the corrugated steel line set. My motor did not have the tow package, and thus no oil cooler.
 
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Hey folks what's up.
I just purchased my 09 Sienna 30 days ago (March 1 2022).
My first experience was bad coil after driving off the lot, and then on it's madien voyage out of town, this oil cooler line broke.

My 2022 experience was as follows:
Driving down road, brake for a car exiting the road in front of me, begin to accelerate and Check Engine Light comes on and oil pressure light begins to flicker.
I pull over, there's oil everywhere in the engine bay, I could not see the source as there was no longer enough oil to keep pouring out.

I had the rubber lines which eventually misshapened and cause the line to collapse on itself until it failed and busted apa5.

Vehicle was towed to Mechanic, cleaned the bay, found the broke line.
Tried to tell me the Doorman part from big box auto part store would not work because it's metal and can't be forced into place. I fixed the issue on his lot before he closed that day. I'm greatful he let me do the work there.

Metric Sockets 10-16, a Variety of extensions, a U joint socket adapter, and an E8 Etorx socket plus a couple wrenches gets the metals lines on the 2GZ-FE Engine.
The Etorx removes the studs and the metal lines match right up. There is nut that is very difficult, we're talking 1/16 of a turn each time but patience will get you there.
Good luck, you got this it's like 3 studs and 3 bolts.
 
Nice recovery! Sorry to hear that your first hours were quite so eventful.
 
Hey folks what's up.
I just purchased my 09 Sienna 30 days ago (March 1 2022).
My first experience was bad coil after driving off the lot, and then on it's madien voyage out of town, this oil cooler line broke.

My 2022 experience was as follows:
Driving down road, brake for a car exiting the road in front of me, begin to accelerate and Check Engine Light comes on and oil pressure light begins to flicker.
I pull over, there's oil everywhere in the engine bay, I could not see the source as there was no longer enough oil to keep pouring out.

I had the rubber lines which eventually misshapened and cause the line to collapse on itself until it failed and busted apa5.

Vehicle was towed to Mechanic, cleaned the bay, found the broke line.
Tried to tell me the Doorman part from big box auto part store would not work because it's metal and can't be forced into place. I fixed the issue on his lot before he closed that day. I'm greatful he let me do the work there.

Metric Sockets 10-16, a Variety of extensions, a U joint socket adapter, and an E8 Etorx socket plus a couple wrenches gets the metals lines on the 2GZ-FE Engine.
The Etorx removes the studs and the metal lines match right up. There is nut that is very difficult, we're talking 1/16 of a turn each time but patience will get you there.
Good luck, you got this it's like 3 studs and 3 bolts.
One oil line taken cared of, did you check the other problematic oil pipe? The VVTI oil line.
 
just for grins i would share our experience. Purchased an 08 in 2011 with 32k miles on it. VVt oil line ruptured on the highway late one night. pulled over and had it towed to nearby toyota dealer. They replaced the line with the updated rubber one in early 2012 under warranty. Van now has 230k miles on it so thee replacement line is good even if not metal.
 
Yes, the viton-style rubber should be acid resistant and almost as bulletproof in this application as the full steel lines. Good to see that 12 year use data is proving this to be good science.
 
How to understand if the rubber line is the correct rubber? Any signs?
According to other posters in this topic and others, the original faulty (incorrect rubber compound) hose is marked "AT OIL ACM". The upgraded replacement part's hose is marked with a yellow stripe and "KK20 OIL>ACM FKM". The best version of this part is all metal without any rubber hose.

If you have the second version and it looks good with no signs of leakage, don't worry about it.
 
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